1st Gen R53 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: M45 Snout Rebuild?

  1. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    #2 Nathan, Mar 23, 2010
  2. Nitrominis

    Nitrominis Banned

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    #3 Nitrominis, Mar 23, 2010
    I had ENDYN do mine when they rebuilt my SC. At the time 2006 there were no kits available.
    The e-bay listing looks interesting. If you get that one or another post your impressions.
     
  3. M^Cubed

    M^Cubed Member

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    #4 M^Cubed, Mar 24, 2010
    Does Endyn modify the blower at all?
     
  4. jhiggs26

    jhiggs26 New Member

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    #5 jhiggs26, Mar 24, 2010
    Nathan I received that M45 rebuild kit last week.

    Looks like I need a tiny 2 jaw gear puller to handle the coupler drive(no space in there) and PTO gear.

    I've thought about a mild port and noise port filling....hmmm. I might have to find a good TIG welder near me. :smile5:

    Jeremy
     
  5. Newbs49

    Newbs49 New Member

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    #6 Newbs49, Mar 24, 2010
    Let us know if you can get it done. I've wondered about the ebay kits also.
     
  6. Nitrominis

    Nitrominis Banned

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    #7 Nitrominis, Mar 24, 2010
    Yes they do! And a very nice job I might add!

    Be careful with porting. If you are a boost whore than you will not like the decrease in total boost or that it may start at a higher rpm level because of of porting. I did a back to back of a ported and non ported SC and found this to happen with my results. Cleaning the cast may be of benefits but I have not seen any reliable source confirming this.

    As for noise port filling, commercial quantity 2 part epoxy like JB Weld is all you need. This is also a cosmetic modification that simply increases the SC whine slightly? Not as noticeable much if you are running a header, cat back
    and an open air intake system.
     
  7. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

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    #8 ZippyNH, Mar 25, 2010
    No instructions are included with this kit. Reason being, a rebuild requires a large shop press and custom tools for doing so. These are things that most of you do not have at home. Most machine shops have the equipment and ability.

    If you talk to a re-builder, getting the timing of the rotors when you re-assemble is pretty hard......I hope the included oil is the right stuff....and not just something close....GM does sell the OEM oil from Eaton.
    One thing to consider...after the snout is rebuilt, the water pump seal (internal for the PTO)is still the OEM....if that goes...all the work is for nothing. I have not seen anybody selling those seals....I believe a gear press would be required to access it.
    Good Luck!! And I hope you get some machining done....to just open it up, and just swap out the couplers, and seals is a start....but it does not address the wear that has occured...especially in the rotor area....if it does fix a specfic problem for you though, I guess it might be worth it!
    I am interested to hear the results! On many versions of these superchargers, swapping out the couplers is a good DIY.....if there is not much lash, and the gears feel tight, a flush and refill might be fine...since the seals were still intact and working since it was full!
    Good Luck!!
     
  8. jhiggs26

    jhiggs26 New Member

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    #9 jhiggs26, Mar 25, 2010
    Yeah I hear you Zippy. The blower is low mileage and the rotors look fantastically all black! I've got a shop press but I need to find a low relief dinky gear puller. I tried grinding down a 2 jaw puller that I've got but the coupler drive wouldn't budge. If need be I'll try to source the PTO seal and ass end rotor bearings.

    Lynn I think I'll TIG the noise ports closed. I think with welding there's less chance of incidents...

    There's a sponser on 'that other forum' that does M45 rebuilds so maybe I'll see what parts they can supply and what tips they can share.

    Jeremy
     
  9. jhiggs26

    jhiggs26 New Member

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    #10 jhiggs26, Mar 25, 2010
    I have the snout apart today after picking up an appropriately sized pitman arm puller. I actually only used the puller for removing the outer snout bearing. I used my press to carefully drive the snout shaft down through the snout housing with an 11mm socket. After the pop the drive coupler was free to come off. The inner bearing was drifted out and as mentioned before the outer bearing was pulled off the shaft. I'll try to add some facebook photos.

    Jeremy

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    #11 Nathan, Mar 25, 2010
    Those photos didn't work. Try right clicking the photo and selecting Copy Image Location or similar text depending on the browser.
     
  11. jhiggs26

    jhiggs26 New Member

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    #12 jhiggs26, Mar 25, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2010
    Please delete. Thanks.
     
  12. jhiggs26

    jhiggs26 New Member

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    #13 jhiggs26, Mar 25, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2010
    Please delete. Thanks.
     
  13. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    #14 Nathan, Mar 25, 2010
    We have pictures....

    [​IMG]

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  14. Eric@Helix

    Eric@Helix New Member
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    #15 Eric@Helix, Mar 26, 2010
    Aah. Looking at the last shot, I see you are running one of those new 16-valve superchargers.:D
     
  15. jhiggs26

    jhiggs26 New Member

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    #16 jhiggs26, Mar 26, 2010
    Yeah the late superchargers with all these valves really do well over the early blowers. :lol:

    I finally got around to stripping a head I got off of Ryephile. The valves cleaned up so well on the wire wheel. The guides and springs etc are mint so I just have to lightly lap them back in, pop on new valve stem seals and it's good to go back into service. I may clean up the ports a bit-nothing extreme!

    Jeremy
     
  16. jhiggs26

    jhiggs26 New Member

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    #17 jhiggs26, Apr 4, 2010
    I spent some time this morning sacrificing a tie rod end puller to fit beneath and pull off the 24 toothed PTO gear. There's only 3/16" under the little gear to fit the puller in.

    Upon inspection the rotors and their shafts look good so I think I'll try to source a new shaft seal for reassembly and some appropriate high heat grease for the inner bearings.

    I'll clean up the case casting inperfections and look into sealing off the noise ports. Stiegemeier reccommended epoxy and not to TIG patch weld in there as it may damage the case. I'll do some more research on that one.

    I've added a few more photos to my gallery.

    Jeremy
     
  17. jhiggs26

    jhiggs26 New Member

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    #18 jhiggs26, Apr 28, 2010
    The blower swap is almost done. I've cleaned up the rough casting as far as my dremel would reach into the inlet and I radiused the outlet port. I opted not to touch the sound ports with welding(heat distortion of case) or epoxy(loose bits rattling around on rotors). Last things on the list are to bake the waterpump drive gear and press it on to the rotor shaft, seal up the rear end, add some SC oil and fit the SC pulley!

    I'll add some photos to my gallery.

    Jeremy