I recently did some work that required some special tools. I was going to remove the transmission and was debating whether I would remove the entire engine/transmission or just the transmission. The latter manner requires that the subframe be removed. I watched several different Youtube vids with ModMini being the go-to guy. He has vids for either the engine/transmission or just the transmission methods. I watched the vids and then started checking prices for an engine hoist (cherry picker), engine support bar and a transmission jack. I have always been a frugal person so first thoughts was finding used stuff and then once I got done doing a CL sell route. I decided to go the transmission/subframe route and then decided to make my own support bar and transmission lift. I did come calcs using the fiberbending and modulus of elasticity for wood and decided a double 2x4 beam would more than handle the weight involved. I also used some 1/2" plywood for a flitch between the 2x4s. I did leave a section of the plywood out so that I could use a closed/welded eye bolt that I raised and lowered via a boxed wrench. For the transmission, I took my low profile jack and attached some angles to support the "platform" and then some joist hangers to serve as "outriggers" to keep the jack from tipping sideways. Everything worked out. I did 99% of the job alone with the 1% being when I had my wife turn the harmonic damper pulley while I had my finger in the transfer case to make sure the engine and transmission were properly mated together. I did use ModMini's flat strap to help support the transmission on re-installation along with some wood shims that helped the transmission sit straight on the jack platform. Around $20 for a 10' 2x4, some angles, joist hangers, wood screws and the eyebolt ($6 at :Lowes). My "support bar". I wanted to make sure the thing would not move forward so I used some c-clamps as stops. The closed/welded eye bolt from Lowes. I could raise or lower just about 3/4" by using a wrench to spin the nut. The flat strap that ModMini suggested was attached to the transmission. A plywood plate on the end along with a diagonal 2x4 kept the 2x10 "upright" from twisting. What is hard to see is that I cut out part of the 2x10 as the top of the strut tower does curve outward. My transmission jack. Wood joist hangers that I used as "outriggers" I did place some strips of rubber roofing between the wood uprights and the strut tower rail. The unsealed engine paint is very soft and even wood could displace it.