I can't answer your questions but my JCW coupe has a RMW tune on it and it is very nice. Mark (CHKMINI) the previous owner had it done. Jan at RMW has a very good reputation.
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I'm quite sure that the only thing(s) needed is a clear path to the tail pipe to shoot flames. My 80' Z28 was headers straight thru some cherry bombs and it would shoot flames, my 68' C10 was set up the same way and could shoot flames. Get rid of your cat's and get a high flow muffler and I'm sure you could shoot some as well. As for the Manic tune, if I were in your situation I'd avoid it and go RMW. I'm sure a bigger intercooler would be necessary if raising boost since the factory does a fair job at best on stock boost.
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
Not many here run Manic canned tunes. We have tunes by RMW which are custom tunes done for each car on a dyno most times.
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Tigger2011 Member
1. Does stage 1 tune cause the exhaust to shoot flames periodically?
No
2. Should I just get an intercooler and go stage 2 since I already have a catless dp and can.
Yes. I recommend a larger FMIC regardless of level of tune. Stage 2 also lowers coolant temp from 225 to 185.
3. Does BBQ mode come on stage 1 or is that strictly a stage 2 and up thing?
No. Stage 2 and up. I usually try and talk clients out of BBQ mode. Some people really want it even though it places more load on the turbos thrust bearing.
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Here is the best IC out there for Gen2 minis. Helix is a sponsor and good guys!
http://store.helix13.com/helix-2nd-gen-mini-stepped-core-intercooler/ -
Tigger2011 Member
When in sport mode even on the factory tune the pops and bangs you hear are unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust system after the turbo. This creates a back pressure pulse in the exhaust that pushes on the turbine wheel. Back pressure whether from the cat or exhaust creates load on the 360 bearing under normal circumstances. Add pops and bangs and you increase that load. The more aggressive the bangs, the more the load, and you can't get much more aggressive than BBQ without implementing true anti-lag. True anti-lag retards timing greatly to hold rpm steady without reducing fueling. This results in the fuel igniting in the exhaust manifold keeping the turbo spooled. Anti-lag and journal bearing turbos are not things that typically play well together.
The other reason is that several of my clients that selected BBQ have admitted to me later on that they wished they hadn't. Usually because while they enjoyed driving in sport before they could rarely use it now due to the extra noise it generates. In fact every client that's gone from Stage 2 BBQ to Stage 3 has left the BBQ mode out.
If you don't use sport mode on a regular basis and just want the flames for the occasional razzle dazzle then it might be right for you. Just want to make sure you have enough information to make an informed decision.
Lou
Prototype-R
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http://www.tyrolsport.com/performance-cooling/tyrolsport-mini-cooper-s-r55/r56/r57/r58/r59-front-mount-intercooler/ -
AAONMS Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
^ Dave.0: Over to you...
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
Get a real tune from RMW or add your car to the list of many Manic cars that are broken down. :lol:
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
2. I daily drove my car every day with an RMW tune for years and still would if my office did not close and now I work from home.
Manic is not the same as RMW in any way. -
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Tigger2011 Member
It seems to be a common misconception that all Manic tunes are canned. They are not, it is just the most common route taken for convenience. As long as the dyno shop / remote tuner has good data logging tools you can do a remote tune. Jan does this very well and other tuners offer the capability. I've done the same with Manic. I just have to start early because of the five hour time difference between here and the U.K.
I'm not familiar with Bren on the Mini but as long as they keep the AFR's rich (11.5 on the top end), use reasonable timing and don't zero out the MAF you should end up with a good tune.
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
You set up a time to have JAN / RMW remote tune your car. You find a local shop with a dyno and you do a few pulls and the data gets sent to JAN and he tunes your car and sends back the tune and you do another pull so see the results and send the file back to JAN. -
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Tigger2011 Member
For pricing you'll have to call Revolution and ask Jan. Don't forget the dyno time and local tuners fees will be over and above unless the remote and local tuner already have an agreement on fixed pricing. Getting everything dialed in can take two or three tries. Every dyno tune starts with a canned tune based on your mods and what the tuner knows to be safe. Then it's dyno and adjust, lather, rinse, repeat.
Whatever you do, do NOT dyno tune for max power on an inertia type dyno. Ensure the local tuner has an eddy current type dyno as you can vary load. If one is simply not available you'll have to supplement with road testing between adjustments.
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