I was able to get the part number from realOEM so I can price it.
Yes I noticed that immediately. It not quite clear if it's a weld or not. it looked like there are some tabs bent inward in addition to small localized spot welds. Maybe it is designed to split to absorb shock. I don't know . . . but you are correct, this is definitely making me want to replace it. At first I told myself that maybe I could bent it back, but after examining that area it very quickly dropped my confidence in doing so quite some.
I pretty much decided I'm going to replace the all bumper brace frame.
I just need to evaluate cost and go from there.
thx for your input![]()
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Don't know much about the Bentley repair manual . . . I'd have to wait a few years for them to get the edition that covers my car and be useful since it's under warranty for a few yearsbut I'll keep that info in the back burner for the long run :cornut:
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TG.
Bentley manual is the only one to have. Gives detailed instructions on how to perform everything from routine maintenance service procedures to major surgery.
Got my used but very good condition paperback edition for $45 inc shipping off of e-bay -
99% of an R59 is R56. I don't think there's anything forward of the engine bulkhead that's different.
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eMINIparts Well-Known MemberMotoring Alliance Sponsor
- Mar 13, 2012
- 1,087
- MINI Parts Advisor
- Ratings:
- +1,090 / 0 / -0
MINI Parts -
Hope that helps........... -
Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
1 long chain with hooks on the ends.
1 large tree
Hook the chain to the bumper and around the tree and pull it back into place slowly.
Easy and Free. :ihih:opcorn:
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
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Okay, back to serious stuff though .
Can anyone provide me with torque specification for all the bolts holding the bumper brace frame to the car chassis and to the lower crush tubes, as well as the lower crush tube bolts to the chassis? Again this is for a 2013/2014 MINI cooper S (I don't think model types differ for the front end. Just a guess... I could be wrong :confused5.
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
Yup..... 8mm bolts...
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Okay, mission accomplished! The car is back to its new self. I spent the entire evening replacing the bumper inner frame...
Replacing the frame itself was pretty easy.
Removing and remounting the bumper wasn't so much fun.
But everything considered it wasn't too bad since I was able to do it in one evening. I was prepared to finish in the morning but that did not happened so over all that was definitely worth doing myself...
Oh, and I could not use the lower crushed tube since for some strange reason the bolts were not threaded :confused5: . . . maybe they are self threading but since I wasn't sure I decided not to take the chance to damage the bolt.
Of course I checked very well the current one and it seemed perfectly fine with no deformation so I feel fine about not having been able to replace it.
The last thing I didn't do tonight is cleanup the garage and put the car back on the ground :arf:
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
The weld nuts on the crush tubes should have been threaded.... Looks like they slipped through QC without being caught..... Original look undamaged... Return the new and get your money back.... Or keep them, get them tapped and save them for the next adventure...
So, now you know how to remove the bumper.... The toughest part are all those plastic fasteners and clips.... But special tools are available to make that part go easier...
You just moved up the ladder... Good job... -
Here's how bent the frame was:
I'll be putting the bumper and front spoiler on sale I think for hobbyist out there. Except for the bend the rest of the frame seemed in good condition. Perhaps some one might find to useful
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