I fit up the motor to the subframe and right away several issue were evident - the A/C compressor will NOT fit where it's supposed to, and the axles were at crazy angles to reach the hubs......so I spent several days pondering, moving, adjusting and scratching my head trying to figure out how to make it all work.
I'm still not 100% there, but one question needs to be answered. I always thought the axles should be as straight as possible to the hubs and gearbox under normal ride height - is this correct, or just the preferred situation?
Cause a buddy of mine pointed out the crazy angles his VW bus axles run at all the time. First thought is - yeah, but it's a slow moving low HP bus - except it isn't, it's a 150hp bus that he tows a loaded trailer or a Mini behind at 70+ MPH for hundreds of miles at a time, and after 20K miles or so, his axles still seem fine.
I also seem to remember that Project Binky's front axles run at some angles too?
Point being if i can run some odd angles, I can probably put my A/C compressor back on.
![]()
![]()
To test out a couple of theories I moved the engine around, tilted it somewhat and built a couple of brackets to set the ride height approximately where I think it will be - at about 1/2 of the shock travel. Doing all that I've managed to get the axles pretty much straight on in both directions. I will have to do some small modifications - I'll need to remove a boss on the oil pan where the A/C compressor used to bolt up, and I will have to completely engineer a bracket to remount the compressor somewhere else......but that at least gets me in the neighborhood.
But, if I can run the angles then I may be able to move the engine back further in the frame set and put the compressor back on.
What say the cognoscenti?
Page 6 of 11
-
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
-
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
I'm probably going to redo the other motor mount, I'm not completely happy with it.....
Ran out of welding wire, I usually just buy it from Harbor Freight, but they didn't have any of the 2 lb .023 spools I usually buy, nor did I see any of the 11lb spools either. I asked at the desk and they found a lone 11 lb spool " in back" that I think had been on the shelf a long time, based on the amount of dust on it, so they gave me 20% off. It's .025 which actually worked a little better on this 1/4" thick metal, but we'll see how it does on the thin sheet metal.
Next I need to find where I put my extra tips as this one is toast......I just saw them the other day but could not find them tonight.....naturally!
I bought a package at HF, but they don't fit this welder at all.-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
But first I finished up most of the motor mounts today - the engine end motor mount is all welded up and bolted in, and I got a pretty good start on the engine steady.....it's a little crude looking at this point but it will do the job I'm pretty sure. The last bits I need to make are the brackets I'll weld to the frame. There is a pretty large rubber bush I need to press in the frame end of the steady, then drill some holes in the brackets for the thru bolt to go thru, weld the brackets on and that's it.
With that done I'll get the final measurements for the axle lengths and see about getting them made. I sent a note off to the machine shop in Burlingame on Thursday to see about having them make them for me, but I may not hear back from them till after the holidays. I was kinda hoping to take the axles up to them before Xmas so that I could move a little further up the line, but it's not a critical thing at this point.
Still waiting on my fully adjustable coil over shocks, and my new turbo outer CV joints. I'm sure there's a little more fettling I'll need to do on the motor mounts yet, then maybe I can get some paint on them.-
Like x 1
-
Winner x 1
- List
-
-
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
Next I'll cut out the seat bottom, then the companion bins, then the floor....that should get me close to being able to do a trial fit.
I did go ahead and cut out the backrest tonight, but given our weather pretty much all next week I think that's as far as I'll get for now.
-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
It took just over two weeks, but MiniTec say they got my axles today
They say they can turn them around to me in a week......we'll see. I hope they return them via FedEx or UPS tho, cause I'm reading that the post office has close to a million undelivered packages, some from before Xmas!-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
all that's left is the rust!
Having a difficult time getting the rear sub into place......there are no instructions of course, except that the floor needs to be cut 27" back from the crossmember - which it is. Other than that they just gave me access to a bunch of pictures of the cars they did in their shop, which I've followed carefully. Still won't fit......scratching my head for a bit now....-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
Still don't have the parts for my air punch,, tho they show them shipped out via USPS on March 27th......
Today I cut a chunk out of the old back panel to fill in the hole for the fuel filler. The panel is curved in two directions so there was no way I thought I could make a piece that would fit correctly.....my buddy Dan suggested cutting it out of the other side on the old panel and it fit beautifully!
-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
Had to go buy an end for the extension cable, but Home Depot had one. So I gave it a try.....
After welding these two together I could not drive them apart without tearing the metal, so it seems to work. I only gave it about 1 second of power too. I tried it a couple times for maybe 1 1/2 second but it made a lot of sparks like you see in the movies.....using 1 sec it didn't.
I'm not sure where I can use it at this point, maybe at the top edge of the side of the floor panels where they meet the door step....wish I had tried it earlier, it would have worked great on that back panel!
-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
This ought to be a fun ride...
-
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
My goal is a classic Mini that drives very much like a modern car......some say that takes all the character and fun out of it but hey - it's my damn car!
-
Sounds like a great Project!!
My only thought was I could see the 3 cylinder motor you want to use is a stick only combo on the car I recall reading ..An oddity yes, but that motor was sold as the ultra efficient optional motor...got great reviews though!! Guess. It has gotten wider use since then....
Sounds like an awesome project....
One question...are you planning on adding a roll cage to stiffen things up, and maybe add a bit of safety? -
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
In 2015 or 2016 you can get it with a 6 speed automatic, pretty much the same transmission used in the MINIs.
I'll be adding reinforcements for sure, but remember it weighs less than a Mini engine, and there are a lot of people running close to that HP in standard Minis, I'm not going to go crazy with the extra metal. I've read that it's not hard to tune it to 150hp, but I won't go any farther than that....if I do anything.
Like I said, my goal is to build a car that looks like a classic but drives more like a modern car......so safe (well as safe as it can be in a tin can like a Mini!), quiet, comfortable, good fuel mileage and the reliability of modern engineering. -
Sounds like a fun project. Unless a car is a genuine collectible, like a numbers-matching Hemi 'Cuda, I don't see anything wrong with doing something a little crazy with it.
I would think the tough part will be fitting the new drivetrain into the old car, and all the electronics. Good luck!
CD -
Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
YAY
:biggrin5: :cornut:
Another epic build by MiniDave!
I look foreword to all the posts and pictures of your new project. -
Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
They are each to find with only rear end damage.
Simple steps for finding your perfect donor.
Find the year you want with low mileage.
Next find out were it lives. (no you are not going to steal it)
Go rent a truck from enterprise with Full Coverage option.
Find the car after it has been parked and read end it so it's totaled but not destroyed for your needs. :ihih:
Return truck. "Oops, but I have full coverage."
Track damaged car to junk yard and buy it. Ta-Da.
I am only kidding, do not do this. :lol: -
Page 6 of 11