Most liked posts in thread: MINI Max has a new little brother, Buzz

Yes, I just found out the man himself sells them on his website - APT - for $52.00

APT Your One Stop Shop For British Sports Car Engines

 

Found an excellent deal deal on the Vizard book I wanted at B&N, so I ordered it....thanks to everyone who looked on my behalf. I would have liked to borrow one, but this is just as good - I got a hardbound copy for $27 and free shipping.

Today I also scored the flywheel puller I needed from a local club member, so now I can proceed with the teardown. I did a rough measurement of the bore with a set of verniers and it has been overbored, so that much is settled.



I also started work on the subframe clean up after getting all the suspension removed...I'll take some of the bits up to school and clean them in the glass bead blaster. I'm very happy to note how solid the subframe is, no rust at all, and just a few bent places due to injudicious use of a floor jack in days gone by. Those were easy enough to straighten with a little hammer and dolly work.

 

The head came home from the engine shop today and it looks terrific, I got a coat of self etch primer on it and tomorrow I'll give it some color.





I also primed the subframe and I'll try and get a coat of Rusty O'Leum on it tomorrow - it takes that stuff about a week to cure all the way thru...





I took the block down when I picked up the head, he's going to hot tank it first, then he'll set it up for line bore and see if it's in spec..... after that it gets bored for sleeves and the crank will get checked too - It looks OK to me so I'm hoping all it will need is a micro-polish.

I'm looking at cams as this one was worn out - the engine builder says it's because it was run with modern oil in it - no zinc. A lot of guys have found out what a problem this is in their older engines - I run the ZDDP additive in the Jag and haven't seen any adverse effects yet, so I'll probably do the same in Buzz. It's that or a case of Brad Penn oil @ $100/case!

I'm going with the Cooper S forged rocker arms, mine aren't bad but they're the cheap stamped steel ones and if I'm going to run a high lift cam I'll need better.

New main bearings, new cam bearings , new rod bearings, new thrust washers and rings, plus assorted gasket kits and seals should do it.

 

Today I wrapped the header. I bought a kit off Ebay for $23 shipped and I still have about half of it left, in case I need to do it again. I thought it turned out pretty well. It's true that Jet Hot or other ceramic coating would do a better job and last longer, but this should help keep underhood temps at bay and might even quiet the wee beastie down a tiny bit too. I'm satisfied with the way it turned out.....



Tomorrow morning I go to nearby Lawrence to look at a block, if it comes home with me the machine shop should have it all done by the end of next week.

 

The block itself is identical....the only difference is the rear main cap, which is easily modified. The upper part of the rear main seal holder on the Sprite block is bolted on, you simply remove it and then machine off the extra material that holds the seal on the bottom cap....you could do this in your garage on the grinder. In our case, if we wind up line boring the Sprite block we'll just use the Mini block rear main cap.

The Sprite block has additional holes drilled and tapped to bolt the plate on the back that holds the transmission but those don't present any issues, and of course you have to use a Mini crank - except that now you can buy an adaptor to use with a Sprite crank if so inclined. we're going to use my crank of course.

Other than that - identical.

The fellow I bought it from is an old guy like me and we have lots of acquaintances in British cars in common - he says he's done a number of these swaps over the years with no issues.


I'll post some pics of both side by side next time I go down to the machine shop.

 

Thanks Dave, appreciate it!

Still a lot of work to do......

 

Today's challenge was to get the rest of the stuff off firewall so I can clean and repaint it. First was the steering rack - it's fairly easy with the subframe out - just remove the pinchbolt at the bottom of the steering shaft, then there are 4 nuts at the floorboards to unwind, and out she comes - I wanted to clean and paint behind it, but I also noticed it has a torn boot, so I can replace both of those while it's out.



Next it was both the clutch and brake master cylinder's turn....to get them out first you have to remove the clevis pin that hooks them to the pedal linkage. To do THAT, first you have to remove the seat, seat bracket and carpet, then you have to stand on your head to even see them, let alone manage to get the cotter pins out and pull the clevis.....interestingly, the clutch clevis was held with a piece of wire, rather than a cotter pin....



This is what you see if you look straight up at the master cylinders -



While we were in there I decided to rinse out the heater core - it's a good thing too. The water that came out first looked like deep dark chocolate, it took 3 gallons of hot water run thru it to get it to run clear - hard to imagine that's what's been running thru the cooling system!

Now I can get to everything, I'll clean everything up and get a coat of primer on it while I get a can of paint made up at the automotive paint store.....



I'll order a couple of kits so I can rebuild both master cylinders, it looks like both of them have been seeping a bit. I got the piston rings ordered this am, since this company is still in the mid 90's computer-wise, I had to FAX my CC info to them. The only place nearby I could do that was the local Kinko's, the young lady tried 4 times but couldn't get it to go, so while she waited on other customers I entered the info and "poof", off it went! I don't know what she was doing wrong, but I should get an email confirmation tomorrow that they're on the way. I also got the spring kit ordered, and all the other bits and bobs coming from England so in a week or two I should start getting Xmas presents on the front porch. (I say that cause there's no way I can afford Xmas presents this year now! :lol: )

 

Yes, well despite the grey whiskers he's a LOT younger and bendy-er than I am! :biggrin5:

 

While waiting for parts to come in from Jolly Olde I started cleaning the engine compartment today, and was surprised to see that again, there is no rust to deal with, just some surface garbage that needs cleaned and repainted.

I also got word that my parts are finally on the way and should start arriving by the end of the week. You watch, they'll show up Thursday while I'm at school and need a signature or something.... :frown2: :biggrin5:

Once things get here I'm going to be busy for the next few weeks, and just in time, school is out next Tuesday.

I still need to find a color code or name of this color so I can repaint the engine compartment, as I need to do all of that before the engine and subframe go back in.....

 

Since I had the wiper motor off anyway, I decided to give it an overhaul - truth be told the wipers would just barely move anyway, so I really had to - it does rain from time to time around here.

One thing that puzzles me right off the bat, why would someone cut and splice the wires like this, when there's a plug only about 1 inch from where they cut the wires?





I don't think that big chunk of foam is OEM either

I think I'm just going to solder splice them back the way they were originally rather than leave them like this....I think I have enough wire left.....

The wheelboxes were almost frozen with rust and hardened grease, so I took everything apart, cleaned, removed the rust and gave it all a light coat of paint. Once cleaned and re-greased it all went back together pretty smoothly and I think the wipers will now work the way they're supposed to - the wipers on a classic Mini are not world class to start with, you have to give them all the help you can!

 

I think you and I are the only ones reading this thread, Crashton....:rolleyes5:

I appreciate the feedback!

 

Next on Project "NOT Binky", more metal work.......stay tuned......