Thanks Dave.....as long as it works, I'll be happy. I did manage to find a 3/8" straight connector, so I was able to get the wiring to the alternator sorted, I also completed all the rest of the wiring for the engine, it's pretty much ready to run electrically speaking. I also got the fuel pump wired up....I really like that sheathing that I got from McMaster Carr - thanks for the tip on that Metalman! I used marine grade shrink tubing to seal the ends and connectors. Still no video to share, although I'm really close - maybe tonight since Rose will be at work and I don't have to worry about running her out of the house with fumes.... I had to not only remove the right side axle but also the stub at the transmission in order to get the header in, I don't know if the extra thickness of the wrap did me in or what but it would not go in otherwise. Once I got enough "stuff" out of the way it dropped right in of course. I also removed the left axle again because I could not remember if I greased the inner joint before I installed it and I just wanted to be absolutely sure - I had done so of course. So several steps backward before I could go forward again. I also installed the hood hinges - that little challenge took over two hours.....not only is the bolt hole well hidden up under the bulkhead, but there are two plastic washers that go between the arm and the bracket they bolt to, I tried grease to hold them in place, I tried running a small drift thru to locate them.....sheesh! I finally got everything in place and used a nylock nut to make sure I could have the right tension without binding the hinge. Job done. I still have to finalize the fuel line, fuel filter and pressure regulator's location and re-install the exhaust system I took out to get access to put the fuel pump in, plumb and wire it. I also got the shift linkage reinstalled and it works smoothly. After that the brake booster goes in, and then bleed the brakes and clutch. Still a lot to do before I can drive again, but right now the plan is to take it up to school this Saturday for an alignment.....then just put some miles on it. I'll probably wind up re-torqueing the head and adjusting the valves in the parking lot of the hotel at the Mini Meet since I doubt I'll be able to get a thousand miles on it before we go on July 2nd.
Thanks Don, that's part of why it's taking so bloody long, that and I keep having to take things apart again because the next part won't fit! Alrighty then..... it's all pretty much back together, the only major part I have left to install is the exhaust system, I'm tempted to start it without the exhaust just to see how much I can annoy the neighbors, but I probably won't. :lol: I still need to sort out the last bit of the fuel system to figure out where to put the pressure regulator and fuel filter, but that's minor stuffs. Now I just need to pull the plugs, crank up oil pressure, add some water to the radiator and gas to the tank and see if she'll "make the noise"! I know it doesn't look much different, but a lot of work has gone down today.....
Still trying to sort out an electrical glitch, I'm getting a current backfeed from someplace, when I hook up the battery all the dash warning lights come on, including the high beam indicator and that's with the key off or even completely out of the lock. So far I disconnected the alternator, pulled all of the fuses and even took out the ignition switch and yet the lights still come on. It's vexing, last night I spent a lot of time with a magnifying glass and the wiring schematic trying to guess where it's getting the power from..... I did crank up oil pressure and got the rest of the fuel system sorted and the exhaust installed. It's ready to run as soon as I figure out this electrical problem..... Ha - didn't realize I'd caught my reflection in the oil cap! One other interesting note, after adding exactly the correct amount of oil (10.2 pints) the dipstick reads at the "low" mark, so on the trip home after I bought it when I saw that I added a quart - maybe that's part of why it was leaking oil everywhere - it was overfilled?
Looking great and you will find that electrical glitch shortly. Just walk away and come back later all refreshed and BINGO you will find it.
Finally! Figured out my main electrical problem at last - just as I suspected, I was getting a backfeed. Turns out the new fuse panels are not made like the old ones, on the back of the new fuse panel two of the terminals are bridged......so I can either cut the bridge out or use my old fuse panel. The bridge was between a terminal that's hot all the time and the on position of the ign switch - tho why it also turned on the high beam indicator I have no idea, so I may still have an issue somewhere...... But that takes care of the dash lights, now I have to figure out why my rear fog light is on all the time regardless of the switch position - I never could get it to light up before, now it won't turn off! It was doing that before I changed the fuse panel, so I'll have to look elsewhere for that one....worst case I can simply disconnect it till I get back from this trip. Progress - I may hear it run today after all!
The problem.... and the fix, a bridge-ectomy! :lol: Mini people aren't happy with my fuel line arrangement - concerns arose about it being too close to the exhaust and the possibility of vapor lock - don't know how that can happen with the electric fuel pump mounted in the rear like I did, but I may rethink the layout and bring it up and over the top of the air cleaner and around to the other side. That will keep it well out of harm's way and away from the hot spots....... Need to see if my neighbor can come over after work tonight and help me bleed the brakes and clutch.
I don't know if this helps. But back in the old days we would go to electric pumps with a fuel pressure regulator and no return line, this would stop the vapor locking. I believe the pressure in the line keeps it from vapor locking. Maybe you could also put some heats shielding around the line.
So, you haven't read the whole thread then? :biggrin5: Sorry, I couldn't help it! That's exactly what I did.....mounted in the rear on the subframe on rubber standoffs so it won't make noise, close to the gas tank and no return line. And I agree with your thinking about pressure preventing vapor lock..... what usually causes it is trying to pull vaporized fuel thru the line, not pushing liquid. I also used a pressure regulator mounted up close to the carb so it wouldn't overwhelm the needle and seat and cause flooding. I also wrapped the header to keep the heat down...see pic in post #267 Of course when I posted this pic I got all sorts of grief about the dirt on the back subframe and bottom of the car!
Ok ok you caught me! I don't read the articles I was just looking at the pictures. :blush2: But I was thinking put heat shielding around the fuel line also to be safe. Your doing a great job, I would never say anything about your dirty bottom. :yikes:
I'll just leave this here..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFGHHIK8AaM&feature=youtu.be The noise in the background is a box fan I had running in case it smoked badly on start up - but it didn't. I only ran it for a few seconds as I didn't have any coolant in it. Tomorrow I'll do that and warm it up thoroughly so I can re-torque the head Sunday. Still have a lot to do, can't seem to get any fluid out of the rear brakes, even with my pressure bleeder - don't know what's up with that, the fronts bled right out. I'll fuss with them some more tomorrow.
Yes, but when you've been doing this as long as I have you expect it to - I'm glad I was not disappointed. When you get older you start second-guessing whether or not you did things correctly or forgot something really important that will come back to bite you later......so far so good. I'm concerned that I can't get brake fluid out of the back bleeders - the one component I did not overhaul was the brake proportioning valve. I don't know if it's just stuck or if I'm somehow not following the correct bleed procedure. The book mentions on some cars you have to bleed both the front and rear on one side at the same time - I've tried it that way too with no success. Today I'll run the engine in and get it up to temp......break in the cam and then shut it off so I can re-torque the head and re-adjust the valves tomorrow. If I have brakes by then, it will be time for a test drive - I'm curious to see how the new taller gears are going to feel.