Most liked posts in thread: Mini mods???

As for shocks, is adjust-ability allowed?

Are you permitted to use a larger diameter OEM rear sway bar?

For auto-cross, the ability to steer with the rear (rotate), and keep both front wheels on the ground, is the performance effect you are trying to achieve with suspension modifications.

Great books: #1 Tune to Win by Carroll Smith, #2 How to Make Your Car Handle by Fred Puhn.

 

Being in stock class your very limited.

You can change the following:
Shocks- Koni Yellows
Air filter, not intake but we have a drop in filter to make a couple HP.
Catback exhaust
Change to wheel studs to make tire changes fast, and the 14mm-12mm studs will allow you to run more wheel options.
Add CG lock
Remove spare tire

One of my Techs and I have run with the SCCA, and gone to the nationals several times so if you need help let us know.

 

Helix built the two time national champion H-Stock MINI Cooper driven by Mark Chiles. The modifications on it were:

-Two way adjustable Koni Yellows
-MINI One D (from Europe) front swaybar
-Helix Cat back exhaust (Probably too loud for the street)
-Hoosier Auto X tires
-One helluva good driver.

Beyond the mods that you see above, the key to successful autocrossing is practice and experience. Good luck!

 

Practice being smooth and you will drop more time than any mods.

 

Yeah, our advice to most of the new drivers is to, "Adjust the nut behind the wheel first." Drive as is for a bit then add in one mod. Just one. Then after you get used to the change add another.

The Guys from WMW and Helix are correct in thier notes on what you can change (duh! ).

Solo2 Allows for:

-Drop-in panel filters; Like a K&N,
-Swapping fron Sway-bar
-Tires can be R-compound but not a total slick (i.e. DOT Approved). Hoosier A6s or Kuhmo 710s are good choices there. These can be as wide as you can fit on the tire.
-Stud conversions.
-Wheels can be swapped for lighter weight ones so long as they are the same bolt pattern and dimensions. (i.e. 16x7 inch wheel for the same size at less wieght with an offset no more than 1/4 in more or less than stock)
-Wheel Spacers up to 1/4 in can be used. (Assuming the offset on aftermarket wheels is the same.)
-Shocks/Struts can be replaced so long at they have no more than two adjustments, and the replacement utilizes OEM mounting.
-Cat-con back exhausts are allowed.
-Aftermarket brake pads (EBC is a favorite of mine)
-Aftermarket brake rotors as long as they are OEM dimensions (i.e. NO big brake kits)
-All fluids are game as well.

Hope this helps. My suggestion is to keep it untouched except for a better set of non-runflat street tires. Not R-compounds. This will wake the handling up on your Cooper. You can lear good control and better understand your grip. Then start modding from there. Like I said one mod at a time.

 

yep - seat time, seat time, seat time! That's what my instructors tell me, but sometimes it's hard to resist a new treat!

 

I have a justa too, so keep in mind that weight makes a difference here. Pick your tires wisely or you will lose acceleration. There are a couple of threads here talking about tires for the non "S" to help with the gearing.

Jim

 

Seat time FTW. Smoothness is so important. If you look you will see the fast guys & gals actually look slow. There is no wasted motion just smoothness. The guys that look hella fast on the ragged edge rarely are fast.

Some folks never can get good at auto x. I'm one of them. I've rallied, raced & auto x'd. I could never get good at auto x. It requires that special skill, smoothness.