I recommend that M/A members utilize the resources here with the Motoring Alliance Sponsors to get advise before changing serviceable parts as well as adding or upgrading to performance level parts. http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/vendor/list-by-alpha *****************************************************************************************************
Good post... It IS important that the car is correct when bolting on "Power"! If there is a "lite" every once in a while, there is a good chance that it will happen to greater extent when performance parts that control air/fuel intake, like a Cam or a Head. SOooo.. as the intent of this thread... be aware!! cool?? Just me.................................. Thumper
An important recommendation for everyone Because most MINIs are now over 5 years old and approaching more then 80k miles it is VERY important to take the time and do a simple compression test of your engine before ANY new engine modification are installed. There are to many problems that are not indicated before new performance engine parts are in stalled. Installing them without a simple compression test will make it extremely difficult to track down problems after there install. All shops doing installs of performance engine parts should make this part of the installation process of new engine performance parts. It takes less then 10 minutes with experienced technicians and anyone can do it to their own MINIs in about 30 minutes. Recently several problems have been brought to my attention for resolution about new performance parts installed by both shops and garage DIYer's. After spending some time to help with these issues and parts being suspect the results were, the prior (pre existing)operating condition of MINI less than even factory specification,none related parts broken,dirty, damaged. Improper installation or installation procedures damaging new parts. The short block or lower engine worn out indicated by a subsequent compression and leak down evaluation after new performance parts installed. These are just a few which could have saved the owner a lot of time and money had one basic pre compression test performed. _________________________________________________________________
This is something that NEEDS to be done!! Like Lynn said. figuring that the engine is already pretty lean for emissions. And bringing up the efficiency of the engine with the usual mods( pulley- Cam- Exhaust- Head) will some times over power the ECU and cause all kinds of issues!! There are even times when a "Tune" will not fix a weak cylinder, or bad( marginal ) wires, or dirty, faulty injectors. It might cost a few more bucks to get a "Tune Check up" prior to doing the mods... ! IF there are no Tuners in your area.. then the safe way is to get a water-meth system. They can be installed over a few hours, cost anywhere from 350.00 to 1000.00, and all pretty much do the same thing!! Saves the engine from destroying its self with LEAN CONDITION!! Detonation !! AWWwww... you dont need it!! Yep, sure!! It is the perfect safety system, even AFTER a tune!! Example... the water - meth was the third mod on my 06!! ( 1-ball/ 15% pulley.. then W/M) I had the advantage of a dyno run and saw how lean I was/am. It allowed 10 more WHP!! ( even MORE with the Nitrous). I have most all the mods now. STILL HAVE stock Map. And have NEVER thrown any lights ( well ok, I melted a spark plug on the bottle , and I got a miss fire light .. duh, 100 shot was just a bit much at the time) do to the mods!! It gets to be 100+ all freaking summer Here in FL and I am not an easy driver!! SOOooo... I suggest follow the suggestions!! Compression/ leak down First!! And a good Water-meth system. STOP fooling your self!! Just me................................... Thumper Mods: 15% pulley/ NS2 Camshaft/ TPR-2 Head/ Header/ cat delete/ dual Megnaflow custom exhaust/ Water-meth / Ported Intake / CAI / Nitrous Oxcide.. and STOCK ECU!!
Also don't blame the ECU Tuner/MINI Mechanic if your new shiny part does not work either. At lease give him the benefit of the years of experience he has to investigate BEFORE you flame him on the sewing site :idea: Great write up Lynn
Nice point TGS91 ! I feel all issues really should be between the concerned parties until resolved anyway. Rumors speculations and conjectures make it harder to diagnosis the real problem and correct things when to many experts (?) are involved via the internet forums start giving to much information.
Theres a couple of vendors I think deserved the flame jobs for piss poor customer service but so many are not merited.
When installing new internal engine parts... Clean everything thoroughly or have the parts hot dipped. This includes valve train HLA. When installing the new parts don't forget to use plenty of assemble lube and pour fresh clean oil over your completed work before securing the valve cover. Change your engine oil and oil filter NOW! When you start your engine again for the first time after the new internal engine parts are installed watch you oil pressure gauge and make sure you are getting sufficient oil pressure to supply oil to the new parts. If you hear anything that does not sound correct to you immediately turn off the engine. If you can not recognize the sound seek experienced advise before you restart the engine. Failure to do these very simple often overlooked things can cause cataclysmic parts damage! And the new parts always get the initial blame.
My auto-up circuit came with no oil, is this a big issue:confused5: Good point! Good mechanical practices are a must Mark
When installing new internal engine parts... :lol: On electrical parts I will have a little to post about later ..
When replacing used performance or stock heads it is a good idea to have them looked over by your local engine machine shop prior to installation. Do not assume that because someone says they are ok and you may have seen and even ridden in the MINI the head came from that is in good condition. Only a pressure check and surface check can indicate any problems and will save you having to do the head replacement all over to correct problems. Leaking valves, guides and hidden cracks can not be really found any other way. I have to refer to my previous posts as well with strongly recommending engine condition performed before upgrades. I am finding more often low cylinder compression values that by adding heads and cams can augment the wearing engine condition and making diagnostic problems harder to trace and at times more costly to repair.
A story, fact or fiction, this could be you in the future? What should have been a simple one day in the shop turned into a several month nightmare. Head/cam change Shop A. Having an installation of a performance head and cam combination resulting in several engine codes and poorly running engine. ECU remapped with little to no effect on the issues? Engine diagnosis later to find engine had low cylinder compression and a high percentage of cylinder leak due to high mileage and normal wear. Shop A recommends to rebuild engines short block. A couple months later back to another shop. Shop B. Installs newly refreshed short block and subsequent previously installed performance head/cam combination from shop A. The engine does not run well and has engine codes leading to another engine diagnosis. The findings of the test and parts inspection were a damaged head and camshaft. The damaged parts were replaced with a factory stock head and camshaft. Results of replacing the damaged parts engine ran well and no engine codes. Shops B's conclusion was that in this case the cam was the cause of the poor running issues and damage to the head during the replacement phase of the new short block? Upon inspection the head had unrepairable damage to the camshaft bearing journals. The cam was inspected, measured and found to be accurate to the designed specification. A close inspection on the camshaft journals indicated a lack of lubrication. The wear pattern on the cam lobes suggested that the engine had been driven for several miles or hours in the state of poor running condition. The lack of lubrication and assembly lube during an initial start up will cause damage to the newly installed parts specifically the camshaft journals as well the head camshaft mounting caps, bearing journals or cam bearings to any engine. Shop A. Did not follow standard head/cam installation procedures? Shop B. Should have checked all the parts before installation. The inexperience with performance parts and lack of inspection of all parts prior to installation led the shop to the incorrect conclusion as cause of engine issues. A different story could have been dramatically different by? Maybe what should have been done before any new performance parts installed? First read this complete thread! http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/mini-stuff/3901-mini-parts-upgrades-think.html 1. Have your engine checked for its condition prior to modding with performance parts. 2. Research the experience of the shop performing the work and ascertain if they have experience with performance parts and there specific installation procedures. 3. Never use or reuse any performance parts without thoroughly inspecting them for any questionable damage or unusual wear.
Wow! We are seen some high mileage cars now at the shop and different problems are now showing up as well. Not uncommon to see 100+k mileage cars come in with little or no maintenance done on them and then they are shocked to see what the bill could be. This is not just engine stuff either, we are doing more suspension work than anything. These little cars are high strung and eat bushings and ball joints, not to say any original struts are most likely gone at 75k.
I should have mentioned motor mounts also, Steve cannot keep these in stock right now. Virtually every car coming in has bad motor mounts.