Suspension Brakes Most liked posts in thread: MINI Sport Suspension Vs Aftermarket

A rear sway bar upgrade is extremely well worth it!

It absolutely changes the way the car handles. The under steer common to FWD is almost perfectly dialed out. There are times when I'm in competitive autocrossing events where my handling of the course appears to the outside viewer as though I'm driving a RWD vehicle with the way the back end swings around and I swing around tight corners and counter steer.

 

I went from the "sport" suspension to lowered and in my opinion it "Really" depends on what you want, if you're looking for comfort & slightly better handling, go with the factory sporr w/ the aftermarket sway bar, if your looking for all out handling and are willing to sacrafice some softness (regular driving, not in the corners) and having to pay attention to road conditions (heavy snow, speed bumps, potholes) then save the money on your purchace & put it into aftermarket.

And as mentioned earlier, ditch the runflats asap, get a plug kit & mini 12v compressor, or donut spare, or both to carry around with you, esp. on trips. Hell find you some wheels you like, keep or put the runflats back on the factory wheels & use them for winter till there gone.

 

I'd say a RSB is the best single bang for the buck suspenders mod one can do. It really does make the car drive more pointy. An added bonus would be camber plates & a good alignment. I'm using Ireland Engineering fixed plates & they transformed the car. Keep in mind that these suspension mods make your MINI handle better. At the limit it will still handle like a fwd car, but those limits have been raised a whole lot higher.

 

I have a 2011 MCS with the factory "Sport Suspension. I really hated the ride quality, even after putting Bridgestone AS tires (non-runflats) and a 22mm RSB and Team Dynamics wheels.

So I have reduced weight, added roll control with the RSB and hated the jarring ride.

Because of where I drive lowering the car is not an option. I don't track the car but I do drive very spiritedly.

I opted for the Koni FSD's and wow what positive difference in ride quality BUT, and it is a big BUT, I can't seem to keep top strut bearing in it now. I don't have a clue as to what's going on.

I really liked the feel of the Koni's but trashing the top strut bearings is no bueno. Several other people have had great success with the FSD's but they are not late model "Sport Suspension" vehicles.

Any ideas as to what's going on?

 

Yes, the top strut rod and allen key were held properly. We had a tool that allowed the allen key to be held and the top nut torqued with a wrench to the proper setting.

This was done in a home shop, but a very good shop that is set up better than most pro shops. Ex-mechanic that owns 2 mini's takes great pride in his work and I made sure the Bentley Manual was open to the right page. We had it on a lift and checked for every possible thing that could be loose causing the clunking noise on extension going over speed bumps and all was tight and no noise.

When the wheels were turned lock to lock a clunk was noticed coming from the top strut towers, and also felt there.

I am pretty sure #5 and #6 were there but when I get it apart, again for the 3rd time, I will make sure of those parts. #5 for sure is there but #6, I am not positive.

When I get the bearing out the damage is not visible, so it must be an under load thing.

I will try to photograph the various stages of removal.

Thanks, wish your shop was closer:biggrin5:

Stephen

 

kyb top mounts

KYB has a somewhat better top mount available, as well as the Ireland Engineering fixed camber plates for a superior upper plate-but-I am not sure your uppers are "ruined" because of a clunk. Did you actually change them out yet? I am happy to hear it is a diy project and no impact was used-is the clunk worse or better with the car back on the ground and weight on the suspension?

 

It does it under load when the wheels are turned lock to lock,

I first noticed it coming down off a speed bump while turning; approached the bump slowly and gave it enough gas to get over the bump and when the shock extended going over the down side of the bump there was a clunk. Now it is doing it when I come off a street onto the apron and up into a parking lot and the suspension extends to reach the level surface of the parking lot.

About 40 years ago I had a suspension come apart and drop a front lower A-arm into the street with a stock suspension TR-4a IRS. A real adrenaline generator! So, I am pretty picky about strange noises coming from my suspension, as you might surmise.

Do the IE Fixed plates require carving out any of the strut tower mounting area?

I did change one set already and the clunk went away immediately but came back after a couple of months. Because the noise went away with that change it leads me to believe the same thing is happening.

Our shop has air power but it was only used for the spring compressor; all re-assembly was done with hand tools and an array of torque wrenches.

 

I'll call today. What is the best time? Happy Birthday!

 

As far as strut top bearings go I'd recommend a set of IE fixed camber plates. They have a very robust bearing. In fact the whole thing is much beefier than the oem strut top. I've had a set on for 70,000 miles or so with no problems.

 

Thanks Craskton!

Did you have to carve anything away from the towers to use the IE plates?

S.

 

No I did not. My MINI is an R53, but Metalman put IE plates on his R56 with no issues either. I ended up with camber at -1.9 & -2.0. You will need an alignment after the install. My tires are lasting longer with the added camber.

 

Thanks Crashton.

 

Blue Loctite 242 is a very good idea. The nyloc nuts can be reused sometimes & sometimes they will loosen. Glad you worked it out. I'm still a fan of IE fixed camber plates.

 

If those stock plates give me grief I will change them and IE fixed would be a good thing for the driving I do. I am getting to old to want to drift corners:biggrin5:

 

That increase in negative camber eats tires?! Apparently so, but it must be worth it for your daily driver to do it.

For trips it is not worth it?? I would think that long behind the wheel periods you would want a well behaved car and not the constant fight that OEM MINI can present. When you rotate do you just do the front to rear rotation?

Thanks for all the input!

Stephen

 

:cornut: To the best of my knowledge Toe, either 'in' or 'out' is much harder on tires than proper camber and caster is most guilty of causing 'twitchy' steering.

Jason

 

I've driven 100k miles with camber plates on my daily driver. They do not noticeably accelerate tire wear, as long as toe is set properly and inflation is correct.

Too much toe eats tires. So does under inflated runflats.

 

Front to rear & if the tires allow it cross them from side to side. Many tires are directional & won't let you flip sides.

 

IE Fixed camber plates were the best single mod to my MINI (along with the H-Sport rear adjustable control arms) .... That and definitely a good alignment, front and rear, by someone that knows what they are doing... I drove all the way to Detroit Tunes for Chad's alignment prowess and am glad I did.... You can certainly tell the difference from someone familiar with the proper alignment equipment and especially ones who work on MINI.... Versus... say some "dude" that works on John Deere's and anything else that rolls into the shop.... Don't be afraid to drive the distance for a proper alignment

Unless you plan on tracking the MINI you don't need the Vorschlag... They are certainly built well.... And if you get the IE camber plates, go fixed and not the adjustable ones.... IMHO...

EDIT: Got nothing against JD....

 

:confused5: So 'splain' on us, why did you take them off for a long trip? It sounds like you're saying that they are only good for short drives or that they eat tires or that the front end quickly goes out of alignment with the IE's on your car. What's the deal?

Jason