Looks great Paul!! :thumbup:![]()
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Strange part. The new wheel had a slight imprint where the holes for the paddles are on the stock wheel. I used these since they looked really close and they worked perfectly.
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Octaneguy New Member
I can't edit my original post so as a quick fix, see the entire album on my Facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1555811818235.72662.1323392365&type=1&l=2e62ac3303-
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
- 2,896
- Professional Facilitator and Alignment Consultant
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- +2,896 / 0 / -0
Thanks - that's plenty good - just helps to see those pics before I start hackin'
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Octaneguy New Member
One more thing...its very important to route the thin shifter wires securely. I used heat shrink tubing. The regular auto wheel has a guide that secures the shift wiring out of the way of the airbag. The JCW wheel doesn't have that so the wires can chaffe over time. I was having strange shifting issues at one time until I realized what was going on.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1960754701554.114816.1323392365&type=1&l=9a0f5e2fdb
Richard
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I found an exacto knife and a few blades worked the best. I thought there would have been more material to be removed.
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
- 2,896
- Professional Facilitator and Alignment Consultant
- Ratings:
- +2,896 / 0 / -0
You da man... I've been talking about doing this for almost 4 years... But have been happy enough with my wheelskin that it has never made it to the must-do list
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Very brave Richard, great mod.
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Octaneguy New Member
So far from what I can tell, the mod isn't difficult. I need to cut some foam rubber on the back of the wheel to accept the paddle module. Need to figure out the best tool for that, whether a regular knife is good enough or if I need something more precise.
I also need to drill a single hole to pass the bolt that connects through the steering wheel to the thread in the paddle shifter. So I don't even need to tap it.
The wiring is pretty simple..just need to tuck it behind that plate. The plate has been the biggest problem so far. They are super tight and the torx bits I have aren't exactly right. Don't bother with a hex kit either..won't work, lol.
Once I find the appropriate size and source, I will include in the writeup. I'm planning to have this all done by the end of the week so I can drive to Colorado with it, lol. I'm definitely glad I bought the spare stock wheel with the shifters on it to play with. Otherwise I would have a car to drive!
Richard -
A shame you couldn't do this for the standard transmission... THAT would be cool.
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Octaneguy New Member
Adding paddles to a manual??
You just need $8K and get this
M7: Vision. Passion. Drive.
lol
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Octaneguy New Member
Day 2
So after a nights rest, I found some more Torx bits at home from an old computer repair kit and turns out they fit fine. T20 and T25 were all I needed.
So I marked out what I needed to cut
I started off with a hacksaw for the initial cuts
This is what I had
and where I wanted to go. I noticed the two nubs here, not sure if I'm going to have to replicate them.
After much cutting with all kinds of tools including my Dremel and an Xacto blade, I test fit the paddle shifter.
Then I needed to figure out how to locate the hole in the front of the steering wheel for the paddle shifter thread! After much measuring, and making templates, I decided to do the old eyeball way. I stuck a sharp object from where I believed the hole should be after comparing with the stock wheel.
Seeing where it came out, I tried to push the screw through it, but couldn't so pulled out my drill and drilled a larger hole.
It fits!!
Ooops but it's not aligned properly
So I cut some more until it fit properly and tested the operation. It works great! Plenty of clearance and the shifter is solid whether pushing or pulling!
Time to do the other side! Woohoo!! -
lotsie Club Coordinator
Nice work Richard
Hopefully we will see it next week. You may want to bring a spare wheel, just in case:lol:
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Octaneguy New Member
Hah thanks! So far so good!
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Octaneguy New Member
Here is the rest of the writeup.
I decided to try locating the shifter a bit differently this time by starting with the hole/screw that holds the shifter in place. Using an Xacto I located the hole by eyeballing it and proceeded.
I then used a screwdriver like an Awl to punch a hole
Then I drilled it through
Then I put the screw inside
Then I started cutting
and carving
and more carving
and more carving
I could see the screw protruding now
I screwed the paddle shifter into place and checked my work. Looks good from here.
Woah, I'm way off from the back side, but the shifters are located correctly.
Closeup of the first one I installed
Closeup of the second side
Oh well, I won't be seeing the backside ever again, lol.
So now I wanted to test out how to remove the airbag. I used a Hex wrench to push the wires to practice.
Ok now for real. Let's pull the negative ground using a 10mm wrench
Time to release the airbag...it works!
Now using a 16mm socket, to pull off the steering column bolt. Made sure the wheel was centered before I got to this stage. Nothing like driving with a steering wheel off a bit from center!
Ok and here's the completed setup!
The "impossible" has been done! Woohoo!
Richard -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
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Richard........ You have nerves of steel. Cutting into a JCW wheel like that. And no bloody cuts on your hands. Nicely done.
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Octaneguy New Member
Or just deadened nerves from all these years polishing...just jump in and swim!!! You win some and you lose a lot, lol...well I do anyways.
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You are my hero.
Now. When can I play with your old paddle shifters to try and map out what they actually do???
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