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here is a picture of the toggle panel
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Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
I really like the looks of what they do, those switches are cool - but wow - $250 for a switch panel....whew!
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if the pushbutton one is a bit expensive they do a toggle version thats less expensive
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Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
I didn't see that on their site, I'll have to go look again....but I really like those LED lit switches!
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if you look at his fb page he has some new stuff
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Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
Do they offer labels for the toggles? I think I like the push buttons better for looks, but how much cheaper are the toggles?
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Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
Which button is for the ejector seat?
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looks like i have to replace the CV boots and while im at it im going to replace the pot joint boots...does anyone know of a trick to pop the joint off? or to reboot the shafts without having to pull them apart
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Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
I just pop them out with a large prybar.
I don't know of any way to replace the boots without taking one end off, I usually take the pot joint end off, it's pretty easy, just remove the clip and it slides right off, then you can put both new boots on and pop the joint back on.
To get the wheel end joint off, hold the shaft vertical and hit the joint downward with a 3 lb hammer, they usually pop right off. -
im gonna give that a try here soon... today before i got too deep into this tomorrow i went through and ensured i could loosen all the bolts like the ball joint ones
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it took a bit but i got the driver side done today! the longest part was trying to get the upper and lower ball joints loose...after a deadblow hammer, bolt breaker fluid and even a torch still nothing so i used a tie rod remover to force the bolt out... and boy when the top one popped it scared the hell out of me... i thought i broke something! but once i got the knuckle off i found it easier to to pop the zip tie off the pot joint and pull the axle out that way... gave the joint with a whack with a hammer and off it popped! repacked the grease on both ends and refitted... putting it all back together i put some copper anti seize in the mount holes for the ball joints so i shouldnt have a seizing issue. i will tackle the passenger side in a few days when i get a chance but that tie rod remover was a real time saver!
on a related note... any tips or tricks for removing the top arm so i can replace the cone? -
So here is a rundown
I got most of the assembly torn down except i ran into a major issue with stuck/seized upper and lower ball joints and even the track rod was seized... not even a micro torch could unseize it... so i ended up getting a tie rod remover tool that forced the bolt out... scared the hell out of me when it finally released, thought i broke something
finally got the knuckle out! didnt get pics but i cleaned out the grease from the ball joints and wheel bearings and repacked with Redline CV2.. and repacked the grease in the upper arm and suspension cone cup
I found it was easier to just to unclip the axle at the pot joint boot and pull it out that way
got the cv joint and pot joint repacked with grease and rebooted
and now all back together... with copper grease in the ball joint mounts and tie rod mount
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Firebro17 Dazed, but not ConfusedLifetime Supporter
- Sep 18, 2010
- 3,327
- Retired CAL FIRE Battalion Chief
- Ratings:
- +3,328 / 0 / -0
Welcome to the wonderful world of ball joints Roger!
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Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
I always use a tie rod/ball joint tool to get mine loose, the joint is a taper, so they always stick - you actually kinda want them too, so they don't turn and ruin the hole.....
Glad you got it all done! Well, at least the one side...
Most people find they have to remove the upper control arm to get the rubber out, that's why I'm going to coilovers on my next Mini.....they're spendy but adjustable and easy to change.
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