There's a spring-loaded black sleeve that you push into the chrome end on the fuel line. Pull off the line while holding the sleeve in. Expect fuel to flow out and have a rag under there to catch it.
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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Sneedspeed New Member
Change your fuel filter. This is a problem we see a lot at the shop. Fuel filter fixes it 99% of the time.
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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Agree with Sneed's - even more likely than the FPR - and what I would have done after checking the FPR vacuum connection, before buying a FPR. Should have said that, but I took your question about FPR next as a statement and headed down that route...
It is a little odd that you'd need a filter at that mileage, but it IS old. -
I agree. I've filter on order,too, just in case. It's a messy job I probably cant avoid. 1 question, why do you think the rail wasn't pressurized @ all after sitting before pump primed it? Wouldn't that point more to FPR than filter? I'm planning to do these by elimination. The 2 OEM FPR o-rings might have to be ordered from Germany. Have you guys had any experience recycling back the said old o-ring?
Thanks guys! -
Pressure will bleed back through the fuel line and through the injectors.
The part on the fuel rail being discussed is a fuel pulse regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is located in the fuel tank. The fuel pressure regulator is on/off operation, hence the need for a pulse regulator on the rail. The basic test for fuel pulse regulator health or leak in the vacuum hose: attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail, re-mount the intercooler, turn the key two positions , pressure should read about 52 psi., start the car and idle, pressure should drop to about 42 psi., if there is no change in pressure from key on to start & idle, there is a problem with the diaphragm in the pules regulator or leak in the vacuum tube.
Classic symptoms of bad plug wires are poor starting with improved operation at higher rpm. The first step is to install new OEM plug wires.
There could be a fuel quality issue, but without a random misfire code, it is lower in likelihood. -
Learning from every post! I shall heed all your advices & do them 1 by 1. Wires, filter & FPR, if necessary. Hmm, would be great to have a fuel pressure gauge permanently attached on the dash. To Paul, Nathan, Sneed & Keith, inputs are valued. Thanks!
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Hey guys, back w/ a lil update. New OEM plug wires in, smoothened idle further, not that it was rough. Hard start/pre3k hiccup symptoms still persist. Turned engine off upon hitting oprating temp on scangauage, it struggles to restart, as it has been doing lately even before wire change. Though engine sounds way smoother & more reactive.
Vote for filter next? Hoping this gets finally resolved. Thanks! -
Update:
What happened to me yesterday might have just explained half my issues. The hesitation might be a solved mystery.
Took the MINI to work yesterday. Car started the usual w/ a few tries, drove fine w/ very faint hint of hesitation...must be a good day, me thinkin'. I usually run A/C to kick the highspeed fan on since my lo-speed resistor hasn't been resurrected yet.
Suddenly, I lost A/C cold air, hmmm, batt light on, another hmmm. Scangauge reads 11+v. Switched A/C off, batt light goes off w/ it, Scangauage reads 12+v instead of the usual norm of 13-14+v. Did it 3x more, same results. CRANK PULLEY. Gotta get myself home quick & weave thru city traffic, I thought. Got home w/ temp gauge @ usual midpoint but scangauge read 234F/112C, exact temp trigger for the high speed fan. Engine bay emitted a very very light haze w/ a rubbery smell. Confirmed w/ Keith my suspicion before digging into it. Glad I had a crank pulley puller ready. This is when forum-generated paranoia becomes a good thing.
Attached pic shows a totally separated damper. Miraculously, my newly installed OEM belt,stock idler/alternator/A/C pulleys & tensioner were all unscathed. I'm blessed. It somehow cushioned the blow of frustration on why this car suddenly decided it wants to get sick.:confused5:
I'm looking at the bright side always. I'll be doing all these repairs & maintenance at 1 time to get it back better, more enjoyable. These unplanned expenses are like Pacquiao blows! Painful, frustrating, takes the air out of you. Fortunately, I've patience to rope-a-dope w/ an old reliable RAV filling in as my daily.
Thanks to M/A & the kind members of this community for being my shot of anesthesia!I'll keep posted on the healing process!:wink:
Attached Files:
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Glad to hear the mystery is being solved. It can be frustrating....
Soooooo, that wasn't one of those BMW "Lifetime" parts? -
BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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I've seen a crank pulley like that before, up close and personal.
That's an awful, awful, awful part IMHO. One of the worst OEM parts on a 1st gen MINI.
Yeah, the car does really weird and unpredictable things when that pulley starts to fail and is slipping a little, before it totally lets go.
Glad you found it now and are on the path to a working MINI!
I agree with keith... it's not "if" it will fail, but "when". Because they'll all fail, if driven enough, IMHO. -
Seems to be the most popular choice. How many miles on it, Nathan? I'd like to believe those should be a real "Lifetime Part". Prior to damper failure, I noticed some significant drop in mpg on the OBC. I presumed t'was due to a lot of stationary idling while observing the engine's behavior on varying rev ranges. I definitely was never running rich. Anyone observed the same?
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
If you want a Lifetime Crank Pully get an Soild Crank Pully. :lol::lol:
I AM KIDDING!
They will last a lifetime, but whatever it is attached too will suffer a slow non harmonic dampered death. ((Bearings)) :devil:
Crank Pully Dampers are cheap Vs Motor rebuilds......Just Saying
Dont use a solid damper. -
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Hi guys, sorry,it has been awhile. Work & travel cut the momentum. Here's a premature update- Finally put on the ATI damper an hour ago. Have yet to take it for a spin. 2 weeks back, replaced the fuel filter & the torn passenger side inner CV boot that I'd just wrapped w/ rolled, ziptied garbage bag to keep dirt & water off that joint. Amazingly, the bag held on well! As expected, the old filter was black, & the housing had some gunk in. Twas a struggle to unscrew the untouched 10yr old filter housing, still managed to finish in less than an hour. Oh & my battery lost all its juice with the long hibernation. It tested OK, & was recharged.
Took quite a number of cranks to get it started after sitting for almost a month. It felt fuel-starved. When it finally fired, felt some misfire. Turned off, checked all plug wires, then attempted to restart. Took about 3 tries again to get it fired, idle smooth! Checked the hesitation, less noticeable but still felt it. Got better as car warmed up though. I suspect the hard start issue is still there, will have to observe before digging further. For now, just glad to have all these maintenance, repairs out of the way & to have put it back on its feet. Pump seems to prime well, pressure yet to be checked. Have fuel rail pressure regulator, injector o-rings ready to go in if diagnosis would point there. I'll get back after I take it for spin & maybe a fresh tank of vPower.
Simply followed all the comprehensive DIY How-tos archived here in M/A. All very helpful! Appreciate all your help & inputs! What would I have done w/o your guidance? Thanks guys! -
Good to see things are progressing, thanks for the updates.
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