1st Gen R53 Cooper S My Fan used to Run When I Shut Off the Engine

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by minintrigue, Jun 23, 2011.

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  1. minintrigue

    minintrigue Active Member

    Sep 30, 2009
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    But now it doesn't. And its been pretty hot here lately. I checked the fuse but it looks ok, and I haven't noticed the temp getting too high. It was running when I pulled into my garage tonight, but shut off when I shut off the car. I distinctly remember it running for a few minutes after the car was off in the past. Any ideas? or am i just a little crazy?
     
  2. moreorless

    moreorless New Member

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    Just make sure it's not your power steering pump that's running.

    ...Les
     
  3. 05r50

    05r50 Well-Known Member

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    check your low speed fan

    There is a low speed fan and high speed fan. They are triggered by temperature conditions.

    The low speed is controlled thru a resistor in the fan housing. It tends to burn out. If this is the case the symptom will be that if you idle the car with no A/C the fan will not turn on. With A/C it will turn on the high speed only once it gets to the proper temp.

    If the fan cycles off/on then your low speed fan is not running. the high speed fan shuts off once it drops the temp by like 7 degrees. It also shuts off when you turn off the car. The low speed will run when you turn off the car.

    The fix is to replace the fan housing unit since MINI/BMW sells it as one unit. Check rockauto.com for better pricing than oem.

    Or check for low speed fan threads over on NAM. You can buy a resistor and mount it inline on the wiring harness, and continue to use the same fan. By far the cheapest fix. I did it and spent less than $30 total.
     
  4. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Nice Jeff...... Sounds like your fix went off without a hitch....:D
     
  5. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    #5 Jason Montague, Jul 3, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2011
    :cornut: I had similar problems but mine's an R56 so.......no help here.:Thumbsup:

    Jason


    Addendum:What was finally done to fix my problem(08 R56 MCS/JCW 45kmi) was:
    1. replace computer module
    2. replace head gasket
    3. replace thermostat
    All done under warranty(thank you Lord) and now she's her old self again.
     
  6. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    :cornut: (more info 08 R56 MCS/JCW 45kmi) My low speed fan wouldn't run and within several minutes of shutting the engine off, engine coolant would regurgitate into the over flow tank and then vomit onto the drive way. In the morning the over flow tank would be empty. See previous post for what MINI did to fix it. Yes, she's still the best car that I've ever driven that I also owned. :Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  7. minintrigue

    minintrigue Active Member

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    Thanks 05R50 for this.

    Has anyone found a different suitable substitute for the mouser part? I've confirmed that my low speed fan is out and would like to bypass the failed unit, but can't wait for mouser to re-stock. If not, I'll order a new fan unit from rock auto and then just order the mouser part when available for the next time. Thanks
     
  8. Prima Car Care

    Prima Car Care New Member

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    I'm confused.

    Are there two fans or one that runs at two speeds?

    If my car ('05 MCS) is cold and I turn it on, I don't feel a fan running. If I punch the AC button, a fan kicks in. It is the fan below the frown face of the housing that runs when I turn on the AC.

    Thanks,

    Nick

     
  9. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    :cornut: One fan, two speeds. One thermostat, two temps(electronic thermostat that talks to the computer). On my car(08 R56 MCS JCW manual), normal operating temp is ball park 220F. If I turn on max a/c(even sitting at a stop light) the engine temp drops 40F to 180F in minutes. I guess because the computer has told the fan to run higher and has told the two temp thermostat to lower operating temp to 180 F. :Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  10. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    Thats for the 2nd gen cars...

    This thread is about the radiator fan, not the HVAC Blower.

    On the 1st gen cars the Radiator Fan has two speeds. There is a resistor that controls the fan speed. A common issue is the low speed resistor goes south. Being it is built into the radiator shroud MINI has deemed the entire part to be replaced in the event of dead resistor.
     
  11. minintrigue

    minintrigue Active Member

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    I've read the 22 page thread on the other site a number of times and I believe my low speed fan works. Just not sure about my high speed fan, but don't know how to confirm. Anyone?
     
  12. minsanity

    minsanity Well-Known Member

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  13. Norm03s

    Norm03s New Member

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    Great info, thanks.
     
  14. jkmini

    jkmini New Member

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    High speed fan continuously run

    I need help. My high speed fan will not turn off. I pulled the plug. This fan is by the radiator, the connection is towards the right. I know my low speed fan is burnt out it has been for two year. My mechanic had looked at the low speed fan and stated they burn out do not really need to replace. Well now the high speed fan stays on yesterday it ran for 2 hours before I finally pulled the connection apart. I plugged it in this am immedate began running. My mechanic is on vacation and wondered if I can still drive it and just disconnet the connection. My mechanic is OOT for the week. The dealer wanted to charge over 1,000 to fux it
    J
     
  15. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    I'd wait for your mechanic & in the mean time disconnect the fan when parked to keep from running the battery down.

    I'd recommend calling Chad at Detroit Tuned & ask him about this. He is a very highly competent Wizard on all thing MINI.

    586.792.MINI
     
  16. Mr. Jim

    Mr. Jim Mudshark
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  17. haygood

    haygood New Member

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    #17 haygood, Aug 4, 2012
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2012
    If the fan won't turn off, you have a bad relay.
    If the low speed fan doesn't come on ever, you need a new resistor, unless your car was built before mid-'03, then your stuff is different and you have a lot more reading to do.

    Here's the big thread on NAM (mostly for the mid-'03 and later cars):
    Low Speed Fan Resistor - we need solution - Page 21 - North American Motoring

    And here is what I found useful in it:

    Testing the low speed fan circuit:
    Many people just try to get the operating conditions right so the car will try to turn on the fan, but operating conditions for the fan vary slightly, so why not just wire the sucker up, as proposed by SHaFT7 in post #358 (who apparently only likes capital letters in the wrong places, so I fixed that):
    "For anyone wanting a quick resistor test on a later model, go unplug the fan connector. On the fan side, you should have a black wire (ground) a thick red wire (full fan speed) and a thinner red wire (resistor fan speed). Hook the black wire to ground with a jumper wire and just touch it to the shock tower, or any exposed non-painted bolt. then hook up another wire to the thick red wire connection and hit the battery positive with it. The fan should spin up full speed. Now just move the wire from the thick red to the thin red. if the fan spins, your resistor is good. if it doesn't (like mine), then it's new resistor time!"

    Here is a good choice for a PAIR of resistors wired in parallel (you can use a single resistor of a different value, but a pair of them controls resistor heat better):

    Better would be two of these 0.68 50W wired in parallel. Much smaller, surface mount - screw onto a metal part with
    heat sink compound between them to transfer heat away from the resistor.
    29 in stock at $5 each.

    Mouser Electronics, Inc.

    Mounting locations used have included:
    Bolt it to the bumper support next to the yellow hood latch handle. (NAM post #435)
    Dangle it from a single bolt (bad, bad idea)
    Screw them in to the left side aluminum engine mount bracket (per drozd, NAM post #375)
    Mount an aluminum plate to the bumper mount bolts (in front of the radiator) on the drive'rs side (per Vito, NAM post #476)
    Screw them to the underside of the aluminum bumper (best best, but likely required bumper cover removal unless you could do that from the lower grille opening. I don't know, yet).

    Remember, you need to mount them firmly to metal with lots of heat sink paste to keep the resistors cool.

    Electrical wiring of the resistor:
    Use 12gage wire. Use spade terminals. Don't ever solder anything on a car ever, ever, ever. Use heat shrink to protect the spade terminals, or silicone where the end of the wire goes into the back of the spade terminal.
    No, it doesn't matter which way the current flows through a resistor.
    Per NAM post #352 by SeanKidd:
    Brown is the common (ground), leave that alone, then there are 2 other wires color aside one is thinner, this one normally goes to a fan shroud mounted resistor then connects to the thicker one that goes to the fan. you are just creating that circuit where it can be reached without service mode disassembly...you can cut the thinner (green/red wire after the plug to preserve intergrity (if you ever had to replace the fan you can plug it in) I chose not to. If you shorted the thin wire to the larger, the fan would come on full power (if EMC was calling for it), but it would eventually blow a fuse due to the amperage since the thinner guage (14) wire is not capable of the amperage(current) of the thicker (12) GA wire. However if you put the proper.33 ohm resister inline, the fan will operate at about 1/3 power (hence slow speed)and the current will not exceed the smaller guage limits and work as designed."

    The idea behind this stuff is that the car sends power down one of two wires to turn on the fan. 12V is sent down the larger wire to turn the fan on high speed. Power is sent down the smaller wire when low speed is desired. That smaller wire runs through a resistor tucked into the fan shroud, reducing the voltage in the line before it gets to the fan. In this mod, we are replacing that resistor. When the car then tries to turn on the low-speed fan, it sends current down the small wire. We connect that wire from the car to the new resistor, and send the power on down the larger wire to the fan. If the old resistor is blown, then the rest of the small wire effectively leads nowhere. This is why many people just splice into that wire instead of cutting it. However, I'd rather see you cut the smaller wire, put a spade terminal on the end of it leading to the car (not leading to the fan), and connect that directly to the resistor. So power flows from the ECU or whatnot, down the small wire, to your resistor, onto the big wire, and to the fan. See NAM post #221 for a wiring diagram made by jsf252.
     
  18. Shawnski

    Shawnski New Member

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    #18 Shawnski, Jun 29, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2016
    05r50, can you give me details on the location of this resistor? Maybe even the size? And is this resistor replaceable? My car just started this same deal and its making be crazy. We are about to do the MTTS 2016 event and it bothers me to no end that something isn't right.

    2010 R57 S

    Any help would be great..

    Thanks,
    Shawnski
     
  19. rkw

    rkw Well-Known Member

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    @Shawnski, the resistor is only relevant to the 1st generation engine (R50, R52, R53).

    This thread is under the 1st generation section of the forum. You should really start a new thread concerning your R57, but what exactly are your symptoms?
     
  20. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Welcome to MA!
     

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