The smog pump was nothing more than an air pump that would add air, typically into the exhaust manifold. The extra oxygen would help burn any fuel that did not ignite in the combustion chamber. It was an early attempt to control emissions with carb mounted cars. One of the problem with this system was the high level of nitrides that were created. Smog pumps were eliminated with modern engines and the introduction of better catalytic converters, oxygen sensors and more accurate fuel metering. No smog pumps on the new MINI's.
Not completely eliminated, morphed perhaps...... My 2004 Audi twin turbo has what's called a "Secondary Air Injection Pump", which is pretty much the same thing, except instead of being driven by a fan belt it uses an electric motor; it also only runs for about 1 minute right after the engine is started cold and then doesn't run again till the next cold start cycle. They seem to be widely used on German cars, I found listings for them for BMW, Mercedes and VW in addition to Audi when I was looking for a replacement - spendy little buggers too! I decided to just fix mine by taking it apart and replacing the noisey bearings - $20 repair instead of a $600 purchase - but the thing was a ***** kitty to get off and back on the car!
The engine bay on the previous page is what is known as a shaved bay. Unnecessary items are eliminated and then the other things that are needed are hidden in the frame rails, fender wells, and inside. It is hard to get by the smog check in Ca. When you car is like that which is why i opted to dao what is called a "smoothed bay." I guess I was over simplifying the SAI (Secondary Air Injection) pump by calling it a smog pump. It is one of those things that a lot of VW people in more lenient states eliminate. You can see it here in the front of the engine down at the bottom. It is the big black thing with the two big hoses comnig out of it: The pump and hoses are big, un-sightly, and takes up a lot of room which is why people eliminate them. Mine needs to be there in order to pass inspection for registration and be a certified engine change which is why the front cross member was modified to accommodate it. After bolting in my AC lines, I realized that like the rest of the aluminum bits, they had to be polished so I pulled them out and them done too and here is the result: I had to change the coolant flange on my MKIV GLI so while I was in there I pulled the battery box and was able to see where all of the wiring hooks up so I will have that straightened out pretty soon on this car. All that is left is to get the fuel lines connected, the radiator, and the AC condenser and it should be almost there.
AC, power steering, radiator, and downpipe are connected. I still need to mount and connect the intercooler, get the cables for the battery relocation, hook up the ignition and cluster and it should fire. I also bought vag-com to tweak everything after I get it started. Here is how it is all fitting in the bay: Hopefully it all works when it starts. I also decided that since I have the interior stripped, I am going to have a cage put in by my fabricator Ken Leet at Leet Auto Design. He is also going to fabricate brake lines, mount the intercooler, and fab a column mount out of the MKIV dash support. It is going over there after the weekend and when it comes back it should be driving
Got the battery re-routed and the car runs now :cornut:. I had issues with the immobilizer shutting it down and found that I missed the immobilizer coil wire. Unfortunately it doesn't start with the key so I need to find out why that is happening. My fabricator is booked for the whole month so I am going to try and find another way to get the column mounted since it is the one big thing holding up progress.
I made a quick video: [ame="http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b259/batrugger/GTI/?action=view¤t=PICT0117.mp4"]GTI :: GTI 1.8T Start-up video by batrugger - Photobucket[/ame]
:blush2: Thanks . Progress has been slow since it has been going over 110 degrees up here the last few days. I got the intercooler mounted though: I had to trim out the bottom of the front bumper in order for it to fit, but I am able to get the cover on with out cutting it. In the picture it isn't pressed all the way on yet. It looks like all I need are two steel tubes, one 45 degree and two 90 degree silicone couplers, and a MAP sensor bung to get it all connected so it shouldn't be too hard to do. I am getting the bung from 42 Draft designs tomorrow and then I will take it to a muffler shop to have tubing cut and it welded into a tube. Silicone I will have to order. I am going to hit the local junkyard tomorrow when they first open before it goes over 100 degrees to get the lower front valence and brake lines. Hopefully the small bumper car I saw there three weeks ago is still around.
I went back to work this week and I haven't gotten a lot of time for work, but I have managed to get a lot done. I got silicone connectors from ATP Turbo and a MAP sensor flange from 42 Draft Designs and took it down to my regular muffler shop where they fabricated my intercooler piping at no cost. It is just steel piping with a bead welded on each end to keep the silicone from slipping off: It isn't pretty, but it works and it was really cool to fire it up and hear the turbo with the revs. I added coolant and ran it up to operating temperature and the fans came on like they were supposed to. I do have a link at the upper radiator neck and found out that it was cracked just like a typical MK2. I went ahead and ordered this from Gruvenparts so I won't have to worry about it: I was able to mount the fan relay box and the blue vacuum reservoir under the fenders so I got the front fenders and splash guards on too. I got some brake hard-lines from the junk yard and got them installed, but I still need to fill and bleed the system. All that is really left to do is fill the power steering, charge the AC, and torque the axles inside and out and it will be good to go under the hood. I am trying to find the lower plastic grill that goes under the bumper on the small bumper car. Once I get that, I can put the front end on it. I have also been getting some other look good parts: Since the original donor was a 20th AE GTI, I got a steering wheel and airbag(not shown), shift boot and knob, a parking brake cover, and all of the interior black lights from a couple of 20th AE part outs. The gauges are Newsouth Performance Indigo boost, oil temp, and oil pressure and they match the MKIV cluster perfectly. The dual pod is for the MK2 A pillar and the odffset column pod fits the MKIV steering column. The Hella fogs are going to be mounted under the bumper. I still need to get the column mounted before I can really get going in the interior. Once it is done, the wiring and dash will all get installed. Hopefully I will be able to figure out why the key is still not starting it after I can route the wiring harness.
Yesterday was hot and muggy, but I did an oil change and filled the brakes with ATE blue fluid. I used a Motul bleeder and it went really smooth. I tried the clutch though and it wasn't working. I realized after I cleaned up and put everything away that I had bled the clutch slave cylinder, but forgot to bleed the release on the clutch master cylinder so I need to go back and do that. I got the front end on with the intercooler and I can finally say that the engine swap portion is basically finished. Here it is looking like a car again:
Seems to really be coming along now. So is there an interior at all? Were the Mk2 door cards and whatnot in really poor shape? I know you're putting in the new dash and steering column, and I assume some new sparcos.
The interior is totally stripped out right now. The door cards, headliner and seats are all good. I just stripped it all out to run wiring and I will do a rear seat delete.
Yeah me too . Picked this up last night: Complete rear disc brake swap with Zimmerman rotors and stainless steel lines. I have a Neuspeed rear bar to go on as well after I get some new hardware for it. The rust is just very light surface rust. You gotta love the desert for that.
Looks like you might be making another trip to your friendly powder-coater. I have a mutually sweet relationship here (did I just say that???). I get free powder-coating, sandblasting, he gets free metal work. Looking good, Wes!
Sounds like a good deal. I am probably going to take some of this into be powder coated after I break it down. The calipers will need to be painted though since they can't be heated due to their construction. I ordered the new hardware for the sway bar today and I am going to get some Powerflex bushings for the install. My fabricator is going away for a week and he told me when he gets back that I am first on the list. Hopefully by the end of next week it will have the steering column mounted, the dash in, and a cage. After that it will be drivable.