one other culprit for the engine smoking is oil is leaking around the valve seals and getting into the combustion chamber...i would pop the spark plugs out and shine a light through the tubes to see if you have anything wet and shiny in there...especially if it hasnt been driven in awhile...new viton seals would go a long way...and really the engine is as simple mechanically as possible...hell the clutch is on the driver side (RHD) and it sticking out of the side of the engine...its not like a R5x mini ...since the transmission also doubles as the oil pan
I drive all the time so it definitely doesn't sit. The cloud's getting really bad though - garage-filling when I first start the engine, but it tapers off quickly. I should start compiling a list of all the parts I'll need - can anyone assist? SO far, I know I'll need: Valve job kit (new guides, head gaskets,etc. - these pieces SHOULD all be ordered - need to get hold of paulsminis (Paul Strieby) to confirm...) Clutch - new clutch (entire assembly?), plate and throw-out bearing (as per Chuck) Pistons - New rings and possibly bearings on the low end (sounds like the leak-down test will tell me what I need here) Cooling - silicon hoses for the radiator, tropical fan, paint for the radiator housing Gaskets - ? Have an email out to 7Ent asking of they have a full-set "kit", or if I must order individually. The Haynes book doesn't help me much since every sub-component with a gasket is in its own section it seems like... Supplies/Tools - New oil, new coolant, Plastigauge, new plugs, possibly a torque wrench (I have one but it's a cheapie Harbor Freight jobbie) Air Cleaner - K&N (on order, shipped) Can anyone help me expand/clarify the list? As always, the help is MUCH APPRECIATED.
Just a thought... Your engine was probably born when leaded gas was available. Are the valve seats the removable type? If so, you might look into the availability of valve seats that better withstand the current gasoline....
She's really a '92 so I'm pretty certain the seats are already hardened, but I'll definitely service them with proper, modern parts for unleaded gas... thanks!
You'll need to investigate when they started using unleaded in the motherland. Your smoke on start up after sitting is either valve guides or seals, most likely both. If you are going to put rings in you will at the very least need rod bearings. Since you are that far, mains too. You need to find a good automotive machine shop to check the crank & do your head work. You will also need the block boiled out, cam bearings installed by them. I'd ask the guys at North End Wrench who they recommend. Do NOT use that Harbor Freight torque wrench on your engine. It is OK for certain no-critical jobs, but I would not torque bearing caps or head bolts with it. If I have any tools you need you are welcome to borrow them for re-assembly. Add to your parts list... Water pump & thermostat Timing chain & gears Oil pump, a high capacity one it it is available. Freeze plugs I'm sure there are some more I have forgotten.... You really should network with the local Mini owners. They will be able to walk you through this & keep you from making any missteps.
Isn't that what I'm doing? I might show up at the classic Mini group at OSU as well, but they seem pretty... insular? Tired of young 'uns with endless dumb questions? I dunno.... Some of them are great - Hal aka "Classic Blimey over on NAM is one HELL of a nice guy, as is his son. Re: "freeze plugs": These? http://www.minimania.com/InvDetail.cfm?Item=CP8%2FEA. What do they do?
Well you really do need to make friends with those guys & glean as much knowledge as you can from them. Yes folks are trying to help you here, but it is very beneficial to speak with those folks face to face. Not everyone does interwebs. Eric was a Brit car guru, but he never went on line. I'm sure there are other old guys who have a lot of Mini knowledge that don't either. We'll help you here, but I feel the best advise is going to come from the old Mini owners. The freeze plugs are in the side of the engine block. I think there are 3, but I don't remember.
They are round holes generally located on the outside of the block next to where the engine cylinders are positioned. They assist in the removal of the core sand during the foundry process. The rough holes are then machined to an accurate "true" size. A plug that looks like a bottle cap without the ripples is then forced into the machined hole. Should there be an instance where the temperature falls below the capability of the antifreeze protection, the "freeze plugs" are supposed to "blow out" preventing a possible cracked block. They don't always blow out. But that's the theory anyway.
They also have been know to corrode out of engines that don't have the cooling systems flushed. It's not only about the freeze protection coolant is also about corrosion protection. If your block is boiled out for a rebuild the plugs will need to come out. Oh yes your engine number plate will also need to come off or else it will dissolve. I know you've done that on your car. ostcount
I rebuilt my Morris Minor engine fairly recently - it's just the same A-series as yours. Here in Britain you can buy exactly the right shade of olive green engine block paint, specially made for this job - I can't believe your red block is the original colour. The engine block paint is without doubt the nicest paint ever produced - you paint it on thick with a brush, it pretty much never runs, it seems to self-level and it dries to an unbelievable tough gloss finish. Costs a fortune (considering the small tin) and is worth every cent and more. Personally, I favour a 50/50 mix of oil and STP - in a jamjar with an old 1/2" paint brush so that throughout the reassembly you can just paint it on when and where needed. As a final check, turn the engine over by hand many times (plugs out). You will feel any tightness that might indicate the machine shop got something wrong (does happen) or you got the assembly a bit wrong. On an A-series, it's worth considering replacing the rocker shaft and rockers as they do wear and can make the engine clattery. If you can rock them sideways (I don't mean sliding them against the spring), replace them. Any grooves in the rocker face from the valve stem also mean replace - plus then it will be possible to get the valve clearances exactly right. Once run in, my rebuilt 1098 Morris would do a genuine 79mph flat out and the 1960s road tests said only 74mph - that made me really proud!
Moss has BMC Green - Spray Can See MossMotors.com - Restoration Parts And Accessories For British Cars
When I rebuilt the Midget engine I used black. My reasoning being that it would show the inevitable oil leaks less. :smilewinkgrin: Matt I don't know if you are trying to do a period correct look or maybe a retro look. My best guess is that your engine was never that war surplus olive drab color.
Nope - I don't think so either... I've seen photos of the '92s and they did seem to come from the factory with this odd dingy red block. Green would be way cooler.
Mine was in this unmarked tin from a Minor spares specialist, ESM: Engine Paint-BMC Green (250ml Brush On) The Brush-on paint does not say "Note: Cannot Send Overseas", like all the aerosols do, so maybe you can just ship in from Britain.
Matt, Come over here for British Car Day in Dayton on Saturday, August 6 and we can chat all day about the scope of your project, and I will attempt to convince you that you can do a complete engine rebuild. It isn't that difficult if you take your time. Any special tools can always be borrowed and I can tip you off on some of the less-insular members in the Columbus area.... Paul
I have been very busy with a bunch of stuff....project car, new hobby business, Mini Meet East, travel to Northern Wisconsin. Miss you guys -- why don't you escort Matt and others over to Dayton BCD? Love to see you! Paul
27th Annual British Car Day - Dayton, Ohio Saturday, August 6, 2011 9am - 4pm Eastwood MetroPark, 1385 Harshman Rd., Dayton, Oh. Honoring 50 years of the XKE & hosting the 2011 AMGBA Meet http://www.miamivalleytriumphs.org/2011%20BCD.pdf