Intercooler couplers are easy to install omce you know the trick.
First thing is use the rubber OEM ones. The silicone ones do not stretch or seal well. I had them and they all cause boost leaks. The OEM rubber ones are used on 400+ hp MINI race cars so are good enough for our cars.
Now the trick. :ihih:
Take off the two lower front brackets that hold the IC and cover on. It's only 2 bolts for each because it will give you wiggle room later to make sure the IC is sealed properly. You will be able to put them back on after the IC is installed again before you put on the cover.
Looking at the motor put the small one the right side all the way on and push it all the way on past the lip that stops it.
The whole thing will be on the outlet horn.
Next put the large one on the the left side with the claps loosely on and slide the IC in and to the Left.
You can tighten them a little more so they are snug.
Now go back to the right side and line up the IC with the outlet horn and slide the rubber IC boot to the right and it will line up perfectly.
For the two small right hand side claps you can feed the bottom parts under the boot from the back or the front and then put the tops on and out the screws back in. You can snug them up and double check everything with a flashlight to make sure all the claps and rubber boots are lined up ready to be completely tightened.
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Quick update.
-Oil changed with full synthetic
-Transmission fluid change as well (it looked original, and I hope it wasn't)
-Coolant flushed (car barely had any antifreeze in it, looked clear)
-Added a resistor for the low speed fan
I have to say that Torro drives better than ever since I've had him. New tensioner and shorter belt have made a difference. Cleaning things as I went I found that I have a torn outer CV boot. I've clamped down over the torn part and will be replacing it this weekend. Not sure I want to replace the whole axle since there is no noise that I am hearing and I'd rather keep the OEM axles as long as I can. I also started "peeling" or scraping rather the original clear protection. It came off easily from the hood but the bumper is another story. I let it bake in the sun and used plastic blade scraper and googone sticker remover. I consider myself to be a patient person but this made me want to take an angle grinder to the bumper.
here is the pic of the front bumper
Dirty finger nails since I ran out of latex gloves and it was 95 degrees out
Hood portion off, and as far as I got with the bumper before I became too anxious to wait for a test drive
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Another little side project were my wheels. They are 17" MSW in black. Unless on a track I was never a fan of the blacked out look. Some cars can pull it off, but with this blue and silver combo it just seemed little too much. I've never used plastidip before so I thought I would give it a shot. I purchased a few cans of black for a base and then silver metalizer and their glossifier. I fixed a couple of places that the wheels were curbed by PO and proceeded to add 6 coats of black, followed by two coats of silver and a coat of clear. This is the end result and I am really happy especially since the tires are like new. Eventually I will get some new wheels, but my garage already has 4 extra sets of wheels for my Audi so I couldn't justify buying another set before I free up some room. Overall I think it changes the look of the car completely and I like it so much more!
Before
During
After
I'll be taking some better pictures after I properly clean the car and get other things sorted. Thanks for all your help so far everyone!!! -
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WOW
What a difference! I hate black wheels as they are a fad and looks stupid on anything other than a track car.
GREAT JOB !
As for your front bumper, buy a new JCW / Aero bumper and have it painted by a local body shop you trust. The labor cost to strip, fix and repaint the bumper you have now will caost more then a new one. Also you can save the old bumper for crappy winter driving since it is so easy to take off. :idea:
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