Engine Drivetrain 1st Gen Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Mynes tuned....is yours? Mine's broke!

So I can be accused of stuff....but I have a "tone". But your right, this is going nowhere....for me....so I hope the OP gets what he wants....and i'm out.

 

Thats nothing to worry about, just add the magic of the Sprintex and the extra heat will fix everything. Parts will just melt together instead of going boom.


:aureola:

 

Its the miles that should be considered

Ok so 10,000 miles approx on the new engine?

Dates are really not important when you talk about engines, hours and miles/kilometers is what we as engine builders looks at.


So how about placing the miles on your dates?

Also how about a picture of all 4 pistons together and maybe a shot of a rod and main bearing?


I might as well say this about engine block and rebuilds. It is not uncommon for engine rebuilding shops to use a block similar for rebuilding that is not the original brought in (exchange /core). The exception is if it is a rare, specialized block or concour rebuild project. The Minis is not an uncommon block and there is nothing special about any of them. So not informing someone of rebuilding a very common engine using another block/engine is well withing the scope of a shop.

 

No bad issues here, all my dealings with Mynes have been good always with a fast response. Just sayin.....

 

Was the tune really pushing the limits of the stock engine originally or was it a more conservative tune?

 

What mods did you have on the engine for the original tune?

 

What were your numbers after the first tune, before the rebuild?

 

My Volvo V70 T5 has 200,00 miles on it and it doesn't burn a drop of oil. I change the oil on schedule and repair things as needed. It still looks and runs like when it was new.

I expect no less from my MINI, which hasn't given me any problems either.

Dave

 

Assuming the block is as good or better then the block said customer is wanting rebuilt!!!
I still would not be happy if I found out down the road. Shop should tell me before going forward and why they need to use a different block, crank etc...

 

Doesn't look like it would have gotten a "cutting edge" tune with those mods.

It shouldn't have stressed the engine any more than the oem tune would have, in fact I would say that it should have been a safer tune as it should have optimized the tune for the mods on the car.

 

N2MINI It may be that you may not have much experience with shops that rebuild engines but it is not an uncommon practice to use stocked engine or block cores for customer rebuilds as I posted. There is no sinister plan with this from anyone. Unless you contract with the shop to "use my short-block only".
I could elaborate on this point alone but it may really be counter productive and distracting from this thread? Call a few random shops and check out what they do as policy and compare to what I posted. I stocked dozens of common blocks hot tanked, thread chased, bore mic'd and cleaned ready for customer orders when I owned a Performance Engine Shop.

Points: An engine block will have the general condition and bores checked prior to a build and minimum block prepping. More if needed because of damage or for specific builds. Because it is a nothing special MINI the block numbers for matching with VIN is irrelevant with this model MINI. A crank kit or turning the crank for the new bearings is procedure. The stock MINI crank is simply a core which needs to be re-worked so again it does not matter about origin in this case having to do with a MINI.


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Camaro, I still would like to see the requested pictures and millage time line?

 

What were your numbers on the dyno from the first tune, the one that burnt the first piston? And then what were the dyno numbers after they rebuilt your motor to their specs and then tuned it again, leading to the mess you have pictured?

Like to see those side by side.

 

Dave, V70 Automatic or Manual? If Auto 4spd or 5spd auto? We've had a RUN of the 5spd auto's failing on those. Change your tranny fluid and check the radiator regularly as the tranny cooler will leak inside the radiator and mix the two fluids thus wiping out the tranny. 150-200k miles seems to be the mark we see it happen. Just an FYI.
Sorry for the off topic.

 

Mark First I like to say IMO it is silly (to say the least) for you to re-post a full quote with your response.

Second *the chassis dyno request would tell you absolutely nothing except the related performance output of the engine for the particular day only.

Now if that is all you want to see and compare then I can understand the post request.
Otherwise it seems a bit out of place at this point IMO?

The related engine logged information during the Dyno runs or ECU Data that would be of better use here?

Would you please if you know of any chassis manufacture that would claim other then what I just *expressed? Let me know here on this thread so I can contact them and get schooled. I do not want to post dis-information ,speculation or simply be in error of my facts.

 

You must understand that I would not take your advice if it were only on baking biscuits, much, much less on anything mechanical. If you must post please do so, but there is no need to respond or comment on anything that was not posted to you from me...

The question was to the gentleman that originally posted with his problems.

 

4spd auto. Thanks for the tip, I'll change the transmission oil and flush the cooling system.

Dave