but you see the head is not with the engine anymore so what are you expecting?? :crazy: A short block is an engine without a head A LONG BLOCK IS A COMPLETE ENGINE
This says nothing as to show aggressive Jay may have turned the car since it was fresh. My point you quoted out of context was that the numbers could have been low simply because he didn't push the engine as hard as he could have. I know it seems I'm only trying to defend them, but in reality I could care less. My only care in the matter is people just look at a dyno number an assume one possibility when in reality there could be some other reason for a low dyno number. This is why I brought up the dyno they used too. No one likes that Dyno and it has about as good a reputation as the Church auto dynopac. This could be looked at subjectively really so I don't feel I'm wrong. Your source for your information is correct, but your taking the info way to literal and at face value. Rings CAN seat fast, but it doesn't mean they ALWAYS will. It's not unheard of for an engine to not fully seal for several hundred miles. His engines probably run with ALL the intended parts and is most likely not running a closed PCV system known to eat oil. Rings have measured gaps to make make up for the calculated amount of expansion from heat generated with in the combustion chambers. For engines meant to see an increase in boost or NoS the rings must be gaped larger or they will expand into each other causing them to break or the piston ring lands. The issue I was trying to bring up with your particular problem is you have an engine meant to see the boost needed to make 400 ruining on a stock M45 and mods that stock pistons and rings can handle. Your engine is not seeing the necessary scenario to fully seal. This is why is could be burning oil. I was not doubting you effort to deliver the perfect complaint, but know matter how many revision you made and the amount of time it took to finally post you were still hasty in doing so. I say this because you accused people far more knowable then you of doing something wrong with out even having the proof to back it up. You made one wrong measurement of your piston and assumed every thing else was wrong based on that. Did you not tell Hubie this? Yes. Did he not explain the proper way to measure out all the things you assumed were wrong? Yes. Have you gone back and remeasured things correctly or better yet have had a professional person do it for you? I said it before I am not taking sides here no matter how much other may suggest I am. All I'm saying is you simply can't cast accusations meant to destroy some one business with out know what your doing. Maintenance was not the kinda of responsibility I was referring to. What I meant was YOU, as the owner of that car, have the final say in what that car does. If you suspect it was not running right you limit the road time it see's until your absolutely sure it's good. You don't take a car your unsure of on a trip across a few states to go drive on a road that's only reason for fame is a bunch of twisties that people beat the piss out of their cars on.I understand you took Hubie's word about the engine, but you should have really thought about your situation a little better. This is just common sense that any one with a car should have, especially modded ones. I speak about this directly with Hubie. What he told me, and this sounds like what he told you too was that once you properly measure the engine he would send out parts to replace those that may be defective or set up wrong. So really whats the issue here? Has he told you he will not help? Has he said he will not rebuild it for you? You said it your self,he said give him a call when your ready to rebuild. This seems very generous considering you slandered him across multiple forums with out really knowing anything about your engines true condition. Really he could have just told you to take a hike considering the damage was already done. Trust me I know the guy, he would rather rebuild your engine right then let you REALLY know what it's like to be screwed over by watching you take your engine to some other hack shops.
In order for a complete assessment of an engine that flailed you need the Long Block not just the short block. Your post comment(s) allowed me to point this out. Your response gave me the thoughts and subsequent posting information about this having to do with this thread. THANKS.
No pictures of the bearing , bearing journals on both the block and head, no pictures of the crankshaft,oil pump gears and housing etc., without these parts in an oil pan are nothing more then just that at this time. Parts in an oil pan. Unless things have changed in the known universe that we all live in... Gravity has things going down :lol:
Most things that break in an engine go to the pan or get fed out the exhaust. So like I said "gravity has things going down". But more importantly are the other picture request? Words are abundant on a forum but pictures are in short supply?
Since you keep asking for a picture, I think I'll help out. I feel this sums up the whole experience by the OP very well. Disclaimer: I have no stake in this other than learning how Tunes, Tones, Tuna's & fans of such work. :crazy: I think this thread has almost reached this point... :deadhorse: :beer
Wow...look who showed up way late for the party? Sorry for dredging up this dead horse but I hope I'm not going to be going down that road because Msfitoy's already received the Mynes tune by DT recently prior to her delivery to my new home in NC. Ya I left MI for good lol... I know this is an old thread but was there ever any resolution to this tale? I read through the whole thread but didn't see a fuel table map...was it a bad tune or a bad rebuild or both? Am I doomed?
Have had my car Mynes tuned, no problems, has have others in my area, no problems. Oh and BTW.....nice to see you posting again! Tuls has also resurfaced recentley too.
That's a relief to hear...was yours remote tuned? Ya I've been away a long long time...but it's time to catch up with old friends...:wink:
We are close enough to them, so just went there and had Jay tune it. Steve from Custom Mini Shop had his done at AMVIV a couple years ago, his car now has 210,000 miles on it and still runs great :eek6: I'm using the ByetroniK from Mynes now
Thanks for the feedback...I think I should not be hijacking this thread so I'll start a new one and see if anyone else can give me some words of wisdom...:wink: Woulda been nice to find out what was the real culprit in Camaro's case tho...
As far as this thread goes if you really want to gauge this whole situation you will also have to see the threads on m/t & the mynes forum to get more info on both sides of this issue. As far as Alex goes I haven't really heard what's going on, last I heard he was getting a stroker motor from Jan, but that was way back then, don't know whats going on now.
It was always a bad tune for me, and then followed by bad tune and build. Current state for nearly a year I have spoken to several engine builders all of them have looked at what happened with my first motor seen it as being tuned too lean and to much timing. Second motor was built bad it burnt up 1qt of oil every 1000 miles with 15w50 Mobil 1 (Spring/Summer) and 5-700 miles with 10w40 (fall/winter). I was religous on maintaining it, making sure I had the proper multi-weight oil for the seasons I was driving. I bought oil by the case because of the consumption. The retune presented rich knock and lean knock which made it run like complete dog crap.