All I know is they should be colder if you're running a tune. Hit up the guys at DetroitTuned.com, let them know what you have and they can help you out. I think JCW requires new plugs at half the miles an S does, so 30k? Not really sure.
Manic recommends one range colder NGK1422 plugs for the 2nd Gen MCS. I don't know if this is also compatible with the JCW, depends on the month year mfg date --- 2010 had a change in plugs according to RealOEM.
Manic has 4 stages of tunes --- 1 thru 4. Stages 1 & 2 are pretty much canned tunes --- you need certain mods to qualify for each stage. Stages 3 & 4 are best done on a dyno and/or lots of data logging and road tests, and require even more mods, so these tunes are specific to your car --- my stage 4 is different than everyone else's stage 4. If you've already listed your mods, it looks to me like you have either stage 1 or 2. To get specific info about different stages, try contacting a tuner with manic experience. Maybe try their old FB page --- https://www.facebook.com/ManicMotorsport/ for mention of previous tuners. My tuner of choice is Eurotechs, located in Tempe, AZ, specializing in Mini's and Jaguars. He spent over a full day installing my stage 4, dyno and data logging. Yes, I paid for it, but my time and effort was well worth it, and the price was right. If Detroit Tuned doesn't satisfy you, contact Eurotechs --- https://www.facebook.com/EuroTechs/
Yes, my Manic tune was purposely set to run at 175F. Also the idle was set to 950RPM --- I'm sure other "abnormal" settings can be done too. However your 60C is way too cold. Your new t'stat housing should fix it, just be sure to bleed it enough before worrying about another measurement.
My OEM '07 plug was NGK5992 (ILZKBR7A-8G). It was discontinued and replaced with NGK95770 (ILZKBR7B-8DG) 4 - 5 years ago. Both are heat range 7. One heat range colder would be the NGK1422 (ILKR8E6), the one recommended by Manic. Be sure to use a thin-wall socket --- it's a very tight fit for any plug you choose.
As for your coolant temp --- what are you using to measure it with, an external temp gauge with a sensor mounted in the coolant lines, or an ODB II reader? If an ext gauge, where is the sensor physically mounted, which hose or connection point --- and both signal and return lines? If an OBD II gauge, has it been verified as accurate by monitoring coolant temp on another car? Ext gauges that connect to a radiator hose will read low, as the coolant isn't in the engine block any more. Even lower readings if the sensor is reading coolant after the radiator has cooled it. Ensure all sensor wire connections are clean and tight, and the return line is a good chassis connection. Best method is an OBD II reader, letting you know what the ECU is seeing. Finally, these t'stat housings have been known to fail immediately. I've read where some guys have replaced it a couple times before getting a good one.
You can also easily check your intake valves for any buildup. OCC or not, there can still be build up on those valves. The manifold comes off very easy, shine a light down the ports and see what the valves look like. Be sure to get new gaskets, might as well replace them if you've got it apart.
Yes, your Manic "adapter" should have a rotary "SPS" switch with a guide on the back showing what each switch position does. The "stock" tune should be your JCW tune. The adapter works be connecting it to the OBD II port, rotating the switch to the desired position, then listening for the adapter to "chime", indicating the selected map is in use. It only takes a couple seconds to change maps.
Typically, map "A" is the lowest performer, "B" is the street map and "C" is the highest performer. Performance will most likely depend on the plugs and fuel used with each map. I use map "B" almost all the time, and when using "C", add 100+ octane fuel, but in my case, that's overkill. You might try contacting a tuner that's familiar with Manic to determine which "stage" tune you have.
Chad at Detroit Tuned knows Minis. Thats what they specialize in. I don't know how much help he will be on Manic tunes, they sale a different brand tune. @oldbrokenwind is very knowledgeable on Gen2 and Manic, he has help me a few times.
If I know I will be taking up a lot of Chads time with a questions I use the link below and add a few bucks as a thank you for your time. I leave my question and phone number in the comment block and he always calls right away. You don't have to do that you can just call them and he will help. I do It because I use to turn a wrench for a living, it's just a way of saying think you.
Radiator fan. It’s the fan which pulls air thru the radiator.
The radiator is nothing more than a big heat sink which passively exchanges the heat while the radiator fan actively (i.e. uses electricity) pulls cooler air from the front -> thru -> out of the radiator.
For example, older vehicles have relays which are switched on when you turn your air conditioning on, in turn this will force the radiator fan on due to the extra load on the engine to turn the air compressor and the additional amps pulled from the alt.
In your case, my thoughts are the fan since it stays cool while driving (forcing air to the front of your radiator) but at idle it doesn’t ... if the fan is on then perhaps the fans motor is burning out or not receiving proper voltage to operate.
Did you put a new thermostat in it? It sounds like it may be stock open. 60c sounds a little cool. I believe my mini is a little over 200f or around 100c. I will look it up
I would not think it should run cooler with the tune. When I turn my tune on the temp stays the same.Besides I believe the engine is more efficient at warmer temps, ether way 60c is 140f that is too cool, I believe. I think last time I checked my car runs at 240F, 110c. Also with my tune it pops a lot more than the stock tune. My car was tuned by RMW @oldbrokenwind may be more help because he runs a Manic tune.
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