Radiator fan. It’s the fan which pulls air thru the radiator. The radiator is nothing more than a big heat sink which passively exchanges the heat while the radiator fan actively (i.e. uses electricity) pulls cooler air from the front -> thru -> out of the radiator. For example, older vehicles have relays which are switched on when you turn your air conditioning on, in turn this will force the radiator fan on due to the extra load on the engine to turn the air compressor and the additional amps pulled from the alt. In your case, my thoughts are the fan since it stays cool while driving (forcing air to the front of your radiator) but at idle it doesn’t ... if the fan is on then perhaps the fans motor is burning out or not receiving proper voltage to operate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Possible but I don't think so, after it idles for a while I do hear the fan come on and shut off. I would of heard the fan running the whole time if that was the case
Did you put a new thermostat in it? It sounds like it may be stock open. 60c sounds a little cool. I believe my mini is a little over 200f or around 100c. I will look it up
Haven't yet, that's what I'm leading towards just wanted to make sure with all the mods and tune it's not supposed to run colder
I would not think it should run cooler with the tune. When I turn my tune on the temp stays the same.Besides I believe the engine is more efficient at warmer temps, ether way 60c is 140f that is too cool, I believe. I think last time I checked my car runs at 240F, 110c. Also with my tune it pops a lot more than the stock tune. My car was tuned by RMW @oldbrokenwind may be more help because he runs a Manic tune.
Didn't think it would run colder just wanted to make sure, going to order the thermostat and housing now
Yes, my Manic tune was purposely set to run at 175F. Also the idle was set to 950RPM --- I'm sure other "abnormal" settings can be done too. However your 60C is way too cold. Your new t'stat housing should fix it, just be sure to bleed it enough before worrying about another measurement.
Ok thanks, thermostat is ordered, this site is very helpful and everyone actually cares to help everyone
Do you happen to know which spark plug I should be using? Guys are saying it should be a colder plug. And which antifreeze, there's a European shop in town that uses a blue antifreeze for BMW's
So I changed the thermostat and put in the proper antifreeze and it still won't get to operating temperature, highest I got it was 90°C and that was idling in my driveway for a good 40 minutes. Once I started driving it dropped down between 82° and 68° going up and down between there. Bled the thermostat housing over and over again. Car has lots of heat coming out the vents, not sure where to go from here
My OEM '07 plug was NGK5992 (ILZKBR7A-8G). It was discontinued and replaced with NGK95770 (ILZKBR7B-8DG) 4 - 5 years ago. Both are heat range 7. One heat range colder would be the NGK1422 (ILKR8E6), the one recommended by Manic. Be sure to use a thin-wall socket --- it's a very tight fit for any plug you choose. As for your coolant temp --- what are you using to measure it with, an external temp gauge with a sensor mounted in the coolant lines, or an ODB II reader? If an ext gauge, where is the sensor physically mounted, which hose or connection point --- and both signal and return lines? If an OBD II gauge, has it been verified as accurate by monitoring coolant temp on another car? Ext gauges that connect to a radiator hose will read low, as the coolant isn't in the engine block any more. Even lower readings if the sensor is reading coolant after the radiator has cooled it. Ensure all sensor wire connections are clean and tight, and the return line is a good chassis connection. Best method is an OBD II reader, letting you know what the ECU is seeing. Finally, these t'stat housings have been known to fail immediately. I've read where some guys have replaced it a couple times before getting a good one.