I actually had one fail just as I was getting to work one morning and it not something that you want to experience if’n you don’t have to.
Saturday I installed the new oil light sending unit and took it for a 20 minute ride. It was not running bad but it was not smooth. I went home and changed the plugs. It seemed much smoother. Sunday was my first real drive in the car. I took it on about a 40 minute drive through some nice roads. I am blown away, it’s everything I hoped it would be. It pulled strong all the way to redline and the sound of the webers and Ansa exhaust is intoxicating! I have driven 2 other 308’s both in very ruff shape both were very slow. Because of this I was surprised how quick my 308 is. You guys know what I mean, quick for a 1978 308. It does have a euro engine and no smog equipment, I don’t know how much that adds. It does not matter the car is more than the sum of its parts. I am in love. The only down side is 3 gear synchro is in bad shape. When I would take it to red line it would grind going into 3th. First I thought I did not press the clutch down all the way. Second time I tried rev matching. The only thing that works is a very slow shift. I can nurse it along for now, I don’t plan on racing it. A guy told me on Ferrari chat the grinding could be a bad bushing on the shift fork. I will have to look into it more. For now it is fine. I took these on the drive.
Glad you were able to enjoy your first drive. Here’s hoping that you can get through the summer driving season with no further problems.
Congrats on the new ride!!! I had a 1970 Dino, and the 308 was my next favorite car. I also once drove a Euro model 308 with the fiberglass body (76 model) and it was plenty quick. My Dino was not quick, but it was very fast, if you understand what I mean. 0-60, just OK, but 30 -100 was FUN! Is the 308 built the same way as the Dino, the gearbox under the motor and shares the oil supply like a classic Mini? You'll need a couple of special tools - nothing real exotic - a couple of pin spanners (you can buy an adjustable one) but nothing really crazy exotic or hard to find. I was surprised that parts were always pretty reasonable for my Dino and these. Who is the goto for parts now?
I wanted a Dino also. I went back and forth on the two. I love the looks of the Dino and the Dino badge and history made it even better. I missed out on 2 Dinos. They are starting to really go up in price. Yes the 308 is exactly the same as the Dino. It came with a GT4 Dino shop manual. I agree it is not quick but it is fast. My car is a US car but has a Euro engine. I need to pull the air cleaner and look at the fast idle mechanism. If I set the idle cold it is to low when it is at running temp. If I set it at running temp, when it's cold it idles at like 3000 RPMs. Good way to screw up the motor. You may be just the guy to ask this question. Do you think I should use a ZDDP additive to protect the cam sense modern oils do not have much? I may also add it to my X1/9 since the cam/tappets are the same.
You absolutely need ZDDP in these engines with flat tappets, be careful just pouring it in, it's better to mix it with a quart of oil first, then be sure to run it for 20 min or so. I use "Camshield", but even better is to just buy oil with it already in the formula. Valvoline Racing oil and Penn Grade are both decent choices, and Castrol now makes a "Classic" version with plenty in it.
Thinks Dave I think that oil will be worlds better than using an additive. With the GTX Classic I will know the formula is correct.
Hope you can find some of the Castrol, it's all gone from all the usual local places I could get it. It's still available online from various sellers of course but not at those Wally World prices. You can run Valvoline VR1 racing of course - it's got the good stuff in it too. The issue with the Zinc is getting too much or too little in the oil - too little will kill a camshaft, too much will kill the rod and main bearings.
I cant find it ether. Sunday I went to Walmart and they did not have it, nether does the parts store. I was going to run an additive but then I found just what you said too much is bad.
Also I am running Motul X-gen in the lotus and I have been adding ZDDP. The high can run on slipper plates. After 4500 oil pressure engages the hi lift lobes. Maybe I would be better off running the VR1 in it also.
Can't hurt, but I thought modern engines used roller rockers exclusively, so they didn't need the ZDDP? Apparently it's bad for the cat converters......
