Engine Drivetrain 1st Gen Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: New Fun with Various Trouble Codes

Sounds to me like it's leaned out too much when hot......IAT sensor?

 

Spark plug wire.

Exhaust leak.

 

Did we data log with out fancy new scan tool? If so, results?

 

I am with k here and questioning the ignition system: coil, wires, connection points, etc.

And yeah, the cat sounds like it is on it's way out as well.

The stalling is primarily tune related as I believe you have some large injectors. Get a fresh custom tune with specific attention paid to low rpm injector duty cycle.

 

How old are the injectors ? A clogged or failing fuel injector could be causing this, could it not ? Maybe have them tested at the very least. Outside of that, i am on the ignition bandwagon.

 

Bummer Nate...

so the wires/plugs/coil are easy to test, swap out some that are lying around and see what happens.

Injectors? One can move them around and see if the misfire moves...

I don't know why a tune that was good would need changing, if the injectors aren't flowing well, then the right thing to do would be clean the injectors. Unless the engine has never run well at idle since tune. If it hasn't then that might be an area to look at.

Anyway, this must suck big time. Just did a lot of engine work and still have gremlins under the hood. Total bummer.....

Have you checked the basics? compression and leak down?

Matt

 

Probably unrelated, but, there was a similar problem on the 2001 Jeep Cherokee. It was heat soak in the #4 injector. Wrapping it in heat reflective barrier fixed it for cheap.

 

P0420

Nathan,

I was able to get around the P0420 issue using an O2 simulator. I'm not sure when I finally get a tune if the simulator will create an issue for their readings or not?

I had a similar stalling issue. Where unless I watched the vacuum gauge drop and wait for it to start to rise before I'd depress my clutch it would stall. Mine was related to the header tubes being too small for the BVH ports. I'm not sure if this is something that a tuner could work out or not?

Karl

 

Back on the stalling and your custom tune.
Another simple thing to have the tuner adjust is the idle rpm. A modified MINI with items, like larger injectors, a cam, or even a BVH, could have some low rpm idle issue that need to be addressed in the tune via a few different means. The factory setting of an idle rpm at 800 may not be sufficient for a modified car, 850, 900, and even 1Krpm is not uncommon for a highly modified and tuned MINI like yours.

BTW, I think an idle of 1Krpm is more for a car with a big lopy race cam, so that would likely be excessively high for you.

The uber high Ta conditions we get down here coupled with the AC load seem to make stalling more problematic. So, do nothing and I bet it will not be stalling in 3 months.

 

Couple thoughts...

while the fuel filter won't hurt anything, restricted flow from clogged filters is more of a problem at high fuel flow than low. It will kill the top end before it kills the bottom.

Data logging is somewhat usefull, but it gets messy fast.. There are so many variables and so many use cases, that it's easy to generate tons of information that can be more confusing that helpfull.

With any engine problem, start with a couple of the basics and also check whatever was worked on last time. For you, this is the whole physical plant! Kind sucks but do the basic diagnostics to make sure that everything checks out before you start playing whack-a-mole with parts and fixes.

So, compression and leak down. Look at oil pressure as well. Check resistance on plug wires and coils... Make a list of what was worked on in your last dance with repairs, and make sure that is all sound. Based on what you learn you will probably get a good hint about what is sound and can be crossed off the list, and where to spend more time.

Matt

 

misfire on hot start, but not cold i would check for a leaking injector flooding the cylinder. after a drive shut the car down for a 10 mins pull the spark plugs and see if any cylinders are noticeably wetter with gas then the others. Or you can find someone with the rig to leak test injectors the real way.

the stall on decel is most likely a combination of things. it seems to happen with a light flywheel, a bigger cam, a higher flow cyl head and header. the car goes into fuel cutoff on decel and on some cars with that combination of parts the RPMs drop too fast for the dme to catch at idle. Maybe your tuner can adjust the fuel cut in decel? I fixed my car with the same problem by trying a few combinations of header/cam until i found one that worked for me.

but first check all the basics, fuel pressure, vacuum, compression...

 

Well, great to see that things are settling for you on the engine rebuild and the codes.

I am battling a P2096(lean) these days, and have been through a few cycles of diagnostics. So much fun.

 

Nathan I had a weird issue with misfire on 2 and plug grounding strap errosion on 1 back in October. What I ended up doing was buying new plugs and wires. That didn't do it. So I checked the coil pack and sure enough it was on its very last leg if not dead causing so extremely erratic activity. Once I got a new coil on it and adaptations cleared the car performed perfectly fine.

If you coil looks like this on the underside its DEAD. A brand new where you see white on the dead one it will be black.

 

The rich mixture is what's killing the Cat-con. If you aren't running too rich cat-cons live for 200-300k miles. Even high-flow race cats.

I don't know if you've ever killed one but it will suddenly sound like small pebbles rattling in a tin can with any throttle input.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

 

Only a few aftermarket cats can take the exhaust temps and harmonics of the R53 engine.

 

Is there only specific tools that can clear adaptation values on our ECU's or will a scan and clear at say Advance Auto Parts clear them? I've had my CEL cleared recently but I'm not sure if that also clears any adaptation values as well. I've been driving around with several driveability problems for almost two years and just recently got it all taken care of and now I'm experiencing a little flat spot around the 4 to 5k range and I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the ecu being adapted to all the problems my engine was dealing with previous to my repairs. I know it could be sooo many things but I'm wondering if it maybe something stupid like that.

Thanks,
Steve