After getting my R56 I know what everyone meant by not having gauges. I wanted a gauge that was amber back lit and it needed to look good in the MINI somewhat OEM. After talking with Marshalls Instruments and custom mini shop the new gauges were installed. I started with 2 then went to 3 and finally 4. Lots of pictures are in my gallery and garage.
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Tron Chief "Need More Coffee"Lifetime Supporter
- Sep 18, 2010
- 60
- Maintenance Supervisor Del Monte, retired 30 year
- Ratings:
- +60 / 0 / -0
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Jim -
as for the dimmer. take a look at a guage install PDF like on Altas website... I think you tap into the switch illumination for the Sport button area.. If im not mistaken, those dim w the car.
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
Thanks, iwashmycar
I'm still pondering the gauge mounts / location. I was thinking it would be easy to tap into the supply that dims the lights in the tach, since the gauges will be located close by. -
problem there is you dont actually take that apart usually. inside is just like a big motherboard or something anyway.
Dont use the Alta pods FYI... too flimsy -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
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yea just make something like those. I guess with SW gauges you may want it capped, but with the Prosports you cannot see anything. Its tough to see down there anyway from the exterior.
have seen the VIP one?
http://www.vipcustomparts.com/minicooperparts.htm -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
Well I finally finished making my custom gauge bracket. It's all welded up but not connected to the MINI internals. I intend to leave it like this for about a week to see if I need to make any changes before I send it off to the powder coater.
Here are some pic's I took with my I-phone, sorry about the quality.
Raw aluminum purchased from a local scrap dealer.
Turning gauge cup on my metal lathe.
Finished FES shift light and 52mm gauge cup.
Installed with 3 screws on back of the tachometer.
Test fitting prior to having the assembly powder coated.
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Tron Chief "Need More Coffee"Lifetime Supporter
- Sep 18, 2010
- 60
- Maintenance Supervisor Del Monte, retired 30 year
- Ratings:
- +60 / 0 / -0
I got my gauges from Custom Mini Shop, they are the Marshall Mini gauge's and the Craven mounting system. Steve at Custom Mini Shop 559-320-0004 has the gauges and mounting hardware.
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DneprDave Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
I made my own mount, using 1/8" aluminum and 2" ABS sewer pipe.
Dave -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
Dave, man that looks sweet, nice job. I like it.
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DneprDave Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
It wasn't hard to make. I already had the 2" ABS and the aluminum in my junk pile. It took me four tries, making card board patterns, to get the gages placed, so I could see them through the steering wheel. After that, I just traced the pattern onto the aluminum with a Sharpie and cut it out with a scroll saw. I dressed the edges with a file and a 80 grit sand flap wheel on a drill motor. I bent the bracket a little so that the gages were in the same plane as the tachometer. I also bent the mounting tab in a little so it would be flush with the back of the tachometer.
I primed the aluminum with zinc chromate primer and painted it with semi gloss black. The ABS sewer pipe, I polished and waxed to match the semi gloss on the bracket. I cut down a sheet metal screw that had the same pitch and diameter as the stock screw, but 1/2" longer to make up for the thickness of the aluminum and the recess in the back of the tachometer housing.
I only used the one mounting screw, but it is very solid.
Like Metalman, I like to fabricate things, the commercial gage holders seemed a little pricey to me, this one was very easy to make, and it cost me nothing but my own time.
Dave -
DneprDave Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
I haven't hooked the gages up yet, CravenSpeed has some sender adapters for water temperature and oil pressure, but I think they are too expensive for what they are. I've already found a water temperature tap for less than half the cost of the CravenSpeed tap, but am having trouble finding an oil pressure sender adapter.
I know I could turn one out easily on a lathe, it is threaded as M16x1.5, but I don't have access to a lathe anymore. I think I could also connect the oil temperature sender to the oil pressure adapter. I really don't want to put the temperature probe in an oil drain plug adapter.
I already have a BSH Direct dual boost tap so I can connect my boost gage there.
How have others connected their gage senders?
Thanks,
Dave -
DneprDave Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
So, hasn't anyone hooked up their gages?
Dave -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
I have the BSH boost tap for my connection to the boost gauge. This was much easier to get to than the common location back by the intake manifold.
My FES shift light goes to the OBDII connection.
And that's it for me.
Sorry....
Chuck -
Jason Montague New MemberLifetime Supporter
Jasonopcorn:
opcorn:
opcorn:
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Tron Chief "Need More Coffee"Lifetime Supporter
- Sep 18, 2010
- 60
- Maintenance Supervisor Del Monte, retired 30 year
- Ratings:
- +60 / 0 / -0
Dave,
I started off with the Marshall's electric boost/vac gauge and the Alta boost port adapter and ended up changing to the set up you see below. I went to the BSH product to force more air through the Oil Catch Can and took the Alta adapter out. If anyone is interested I can ship them the Alta adapter for $25 plus shipping. I went with the Craven products and yes you might find cheaper out there but I wanted something that would work and get the gauges in quickly. Good fit, look and functionality made for a great mod that keeps me informed while I play. The prices of the adapters and the gauges when compared with blowing an engine is relatively small...
Marshall Gauge’s
• 7411 - Vac/Boost, 30" Hg - 30 PSI (mechanical)
• 7421 - Voltmeter, 0-18V (electric)
• 7433 - Oil pressure, 0-100 PSI (electric)
• 7434 - Water temperature, 100-260°F (electric)
Craven Speed Works
• CR-MC-0001-A A Frame Bracket (2-4 Gauges)
• CR-MC-0063 Hot Link (For Water Temp Gauge)
• CR-MC-0001-J Dual Pod Adapter
• CR-MC-0005 Single 52mm Gauge Cup
• CR-MC-0075 Y adapter (for putting 2 single cups/adapters on a side)
BSH
• Direct Dual Boost Tap (For Vac Boost Gauge)
Steve at Custom Mini Shop phone number in my signature has all these items in stock and his shipping price is extremely reasonable. -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
I started this thread some time ago, and since then I've been running around with my custom built gauge housing in raw aluminum. Well, one of my buddies owns a powder coating business and apparently it's been bugging him that I haven't gotten around to coating it. So yesterday I pulled it and gave it to him. Well I gotta say, he did a fantastic job. He matched my dark silver MINI color perfectly. Now he's bugging me to powder coat my wheels. But I think I'll hold off on that for a little while at least.
Here are some pic's of the housing, now I need to get it back in the MINI.
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