I have a new tensioner pulley and idler pulley installed by the dealer and now it sounds like an old work van. Is there some mechanic trick or something that would quiet it down some? Should I bring it back to the dealer and tell em to fix it? Or is that just the nature of a car engine when it gets old?
Went back to the dealer and they had the mechanic ride with me so he can hear for himself. I knew it was going to be tough to explain this one since they don't know my baby like I do. Mechanic just told me that it sounds normal for a "car this age", "engines just get old and they sound different after a while", which I know is complete BS. Even my fiancé noticed the sound difference and she doesn't even pay that close attention. Also, I've been doing some research and this might be what some are calling the "death rattle." AAArgh, I wish I knew how to fix this. Even just to visually check so I can tell those guys at the dealer, "Look, I am just trying to avoid having a bigger problem later down the line because of something I'm noticing right now. It's the timing chain, now fix it!"
Check to see that the cam sensor is plugged in correctly - I knocked mine loose one time and it sounded horrible. It's on the passenger side of the engine. EDIT: This would throw a code if true, so it's mostly a wild guess.
No, no, that was the original problem BEFORE the timing chain started to sound like this. After giving it some thought, I don't think it's the same problem anymore. I will have someone else take a look at it though who I sent a video to and he says it sounds like the chain tensioner. So we'll see.
Careful to jump to the conclusion it is a timing chain issue on a gen1.... While it does happen....it is MUCH MORE RARE than the gen2 cars... Did the dealer use an oem belt.... Bet you might have a pulley....and the belt is too long...can make the tensioner jump...rattle....
Hmm. I haven't thought of that because they are a MINI dealer so I assumed it's OEM but this is why I posted that on here, you just never know what people might think of. I will check that.
The oem pulley is hot pressed steel... No bolt holes.... Aftermarket is USUALLY (certainly all made since 2003 or so...so all but a few hundred old style installs) cnc machined...various colors... But with bolts holes in various configurations... There are a few pictures around of the tensioner and what it should look like with a proper length bent.... The oem belt is USUSLLY a "conti-tec" branded belt, 1388 mm if I recall right... Most folks use a 532 (us sizing system) with a 17% or a 535 with a 15% reduction if a stock crank pulley is used. Changing a belt is about a 15-30 minutes job max...do not let a shop charge you an hour and $200+ to do it...belts are about $20-25 max...most any are fine...just suggest NOT using the Goodyear "gator back"...the back ribs tend to make lots of noise...
P.S. The tensioner can be a fast and easy swap if I recall right on a r53...seems MOST folks in a gen1 report an issue after a head rebuild when it has been machined (sometimes out of limits)...in this case a washer can be added to make the tensioner "reach" a bit more...think this was Nathan's fix on his car....wonder if he has a vid on his thread...you might be able to compare the sound.
I found a video on you tube that sounded exactly like this so I sent that to a different dealer and they confirmed that it was the tensioner and they happen to have it in stock. I brought her in and they made a quick switch. She's back to purring like a sort of new MINI.
^^ thanks. I'm glad to know I'm not crazy and which dealer to trust. Now I have my emergency guys (the closer one) and my awesome guys out in the burbs.