Most liked posts in thread: Nitto NT-01 Tire Pressures ?

I start at 32 cold and check them after the first tracking to keep them at 40 hot. i run a 215/45/17 NT-01

 

1.8 L Stroker, Vipec/Vipec dash, and TVS 900, and some other goodies. It's probably a month or so from being done. I'm going to write it all up when it's finished. Car is in Irvine where Jan, Kevin, Colin and Owen can work their magic.

I really want to get sub 2:40 at RA someday; with this setup and more improvement behind the wheel I'm to get there this year. I can run consistent 2:47's now with my current setup, and there's more time to be had with what I have currently, but not 7 seconds. At least not by me.

Once you get the suspension dialed in, you'll chew up most M3's in the turns, and most Porsche's, depending on how they're set up. I mean, a GT3, well, that's not going to happen. I get pulled in the straights, but the cool thing with M3's, if you get good exit speed and get up on them coming out of a turn onto a long straight, you can draft them for awhile on the straights before they pull you. Then catch them in the next braking zone/set of turns. If you really want to piss them off, tell them your MINI is stock when they come by and demand to know what you've done to the car.

 

Dick, that would not work on the track. At all.

Alan's rec's are a good place to start. A pyrometer is your best bet to dial in Camber, I go a bit more than -2.0, like -2.4, but two is good to start. Now that I can adjust castor I'll be at 2.0.

I run a little lower on the rears; I shoot for 33-35 on the rears 35-38 on the fronts. Work with it to see what works best.

 

Chad just said what I'm about to:

We ran 215/45/17 NT-01's, donated by J&T Tire in Allison Park, PA (shout out, great guys) on the PVGP demo-lap Track Rides F56's, stock suspensions. What really worked to provide a good, progressive, safe ride was starting at 32 all the way around, and bleeding off to stay about 38 hot. Anything more and they felt a bit more slippy. Now, bear in mind, we were giving fast, 7-8/10ths track rides to people and sponsors making donations, so leaving skid marks (of any kind!) was "out", and we were not timed - I'm just giving my impressions and controllability vs. pressure, and these impressions were shared by all 3 drivers. The "sweet spot" seemed to be around 36-38 hot. More was slippy, less was mushy. I found the NT-01's a fantastic track tire, very consistent and progressive, great dry grip, didn't overheat easily, with excellent wet grip provided the water wasn't pooling. Only downside was driving on he street (and slow laps on track) where they really picked up clag and got noisy. Fortunately there's a great, fun cure for that.

 

The rears were fine, but it's hopeless to tuck the front wheels. Which is why I jumped all over the widebody kit.

 

Aim for 36-38 hot front and rear. Starting pressures are driver and setup dependent.

Probably should have more camber - see how tires are wearing.

 

You are absolutely right on heating up being dependent on pressure, it's also dependent on ambient temps/road temps, and the track. I heat the tires up much quicker at Blackhawks, a short technical track with many tight turns and braking zones, as opposed to Road America, with it's long straights where things cool down. The best way to do it is to keep logs of ambient temps, the track, and tire pressures; I started doing that last year and it helps get things dialed in quicker. I'm just a hack, but these things really help getting things consistent, which is huge for us mere mortal drivers. For me, there is a arrange of 4 PSI or so where I'm consistent (below that I'm slower, but I can't necessarily tell that the PSI is low by feel, just by times and pressures. Above it, I can feel the tires getting slippery, I can usually tell when the PSI starts getting above 38 up front).

RA has both relatively flat curbing and severely banked curbing. I love getting on the flat stuff, I stay off the banked curbing at all costs. People have lost oil pans, headers, etc. on that; no thank you. Just nudging it really unsettles the car.

I run a solid 19mm Hsport solid rear sway bar on full stiff. It only has two settings; I used to run it soft but I've gotten used to it. Many people runner stiffer than that, but Jeff was of the philosophy that people tend to overdo it on sway bars. If I had it to do over again I'd go 22 hollow, equivalent to 19 solid but lighter. Not a big deal though.

I run a 15 mm spacer up front, and 8mm in the rear. I really need to roll the rear fenders, the fronts are ok.

The stagger really helps get the car around turns, I'm still growing into it. It's easy to cheat; if you are off the apex it's easy to turn a little tighter to get it, but it scrubs speed. When you hit it just right though, it's like hitting the perfect golf swing. There's very little drama, but you come out with excellent exit speeds. It's one thing I'm trying hard to get consistent at.

This year I'll be starting all over--the JRZ's are new, and the car will be roughly 300WHP, maybe more, up from 250, with a bunch more torque. Should be interesting...Jan swears by getting as much castor as possible up front--if I can take a little camber out and have the same results on tire wear and turn in, the benefits of better acceleration and braking with the reduced camber will be worth it.

You may be faster with different settings than me, that's what's fun about it, figuring it out. I've tried a number of different setups, I've had the car too low, which feels fast but isn't, I've had the rear too low in relation to the front, and that was the worst driving experience in my life...

 

I usually start at 26f/28r cold and that gets me to 36 square hot when running 225-45-15 nt-01s, I do tweak a bit based on temp and track. For example, the track I was at Monday I run 2 psi higher hot on the left side because it is clockwise huehuehue.

I am running 80/70 N/mm springs with -2.7 camber in the front and -1.7 in the rear a smidge of toe out on the front and 0 in the rear. I have a pdf somewhere that toyo released about optimizing the ra-1 which is the same compound as the nt-01. I believe it recommends maxing out caster. Hoosier does the same for their tires (minimum camber etc.) to get the best out of them.

 

Mine did best at 40psi cold all around, then let some air out down to 45psi hot... 2.3 degrees front, 1.5 rear, with no toe on either end...

 

My ViPEC is linked into the Innovate WB hidden in the glove box. All you need is the signal wire for the sensor tapped into the OE pre cat O2 sensor wiring, and disable the pre cat sensor...
On the MTX series WB, the signal wire is the yellow one. Then I just cut all the wires off of the pre cat (so the sensor is pretty much a plug) and the wire you tap it into is the Yellow wire on the harness side of the plug in connection next to the pre S/C map sensor.

Other than that its just the two main plugs on top of the ECU, and you are ready for the tuner to do their job.

And thanks!

 

I usually start lower than that cold, like mid to upper twenties depending on ambient temps. Rarely do I have to put more air in, but over the course of the day I usually have to take some out. The fronts will heat up more than the rears, and the left front will heat up slightly more than the right front, you have to keep an eye on it throughout the day.

I start to have problems over 38 PSI; between 35-38 seems to work well for me on the fronts, with a lb or two less in the rears. Over 38 I really tend to start to slide. But, many people run that pressure and like it; people go anywhere from low to high 30's with them.

Funny thing about tire pressures--I used to run mid to low 30's because it felt faster. Track data showed what I felt was fast and what truly is fast are two different things--I feel slower, but run quicker on the timer with a bit more pressure.

I have AST's going in, they allow castor adjustment with their built in plates. With more caster, you can use a little less camber up front.

I run the rears a little lower to get a little more grip. The rears don't do much, my tire wear is next to nothing on the rears. It's what the TSW guys used to do in their track car and swore by it, and with a 19mm sway bar, it just works. But I like the car neutral or with a smidge of understeer; that's easy to control. Other people run stiffer springs on the rear and equal tire pressures in the rears and swear buy it. You have to figure out what works best for you. There is a fine line between getting the car to rotate, and sliding the rear end out.

 

Talk with Jan about the LC2, he knows a lot more than I do.

Making a plug in harness from the OE sensor wiring is easy, and the best way to do it... Thats actually the route I ended up with, because the ECU side of the harness uses such an ungodly small gauge of wire, and there isn't much room to make a good splice. I would have to run out to the car to make sure, but I am like 60/40% sure the wire from the stock sensor you need is the black one.