Engine Drivetrain 2nd Gen S Most liked posts in thread: NM Eng Catch Tank

I know I might be standing way out in left field with a host of others, but catch cans are a BAND-AID solution to the carbon build-up issue on the N14 and N18 engines. It's pretty disgusting how many companies are coming out of the woodwork to offer their own friggin' can. Dual cans, single cans, open-breather cans, block off plugs... :frown2: The price is pretty shocking considering what these really are. A true crankcase breather filter has either an extremely fine serviceable filter or uses a centrifuge to whip the oil particles out of the air stream. These are mostly used in the heavy-duty diesel industry and you'd have a real hard time trying to fit it in your MINI's engine bay. So I guess we're striking out again.

And then there's the photos people post saying, "Look at all this sludge my catch can caught. Thank you catch can!!!!" But wait... :idea: most people are failing to realize that's just condensate from the temperature difference inside the catch can and it's only catching a tiny bit of oil.

The best way to stop the issue is to not take short trips all the time, let the car get up to temp, and to not be afraid to rev the engine like a VTEC banshee. If you want to clean it, get handy with some basic wrenches and sockets and clean them out manually every 20-30K miles, or as needed. Yes, a walnut blast like the dealer is the best solution, but for not much money and basic tools in your toolbox, you can get the ports/valves clean 90% as good as the dealer can.

Anyways... RANT OFF!


Where's my coffee...

 

Good luck, I am sure you will get great advice here on M/A.

Sorry I can't help I have an R53 and don't need a catch can. :lol:

 

First choice.... Saikou Mich..

Why?
They make a dual unit so it will address both PCV ports...
They make it to fit inside the MINI engine bay....
Not necessarily the prettiest.... but they do employ perforated screens to develop the phase change....

I went with 42 design...
Cut it apart and down sized it to fit the MINI bay... Has a stack of 3" perforated wafers with 1/32" holes (thousands of holes) on 5-6 plates stacked inside the can. Actually have two, but the second was just too tight and would hit with the engine movement. So I'm back to the turbo air intake path.... Filtering the buildup that would occur in that long path through the IC... Figure that protects the efficiency on the IC minimizing the oil coating the inside surfaces. When the time comes I'll just do the walnut blast with my DIY kit...

I'm sure the NM is good (haven't cut one apart, but the company makes good stuff.... Sooooo it stands to reason maybe?? It's pretty, if that means anything...

Not sure about the BSH cans... They may use screens also...

No one has really done a side by side comparison showing efficiency of OCCans...

At this point I don't really care... I'm sticking with filtering the charge side air and leaving the intake PCV OEM connection.... And will pull the intake at around 50,000 miles for a quick peek of the valves and if necessary I'll blast away....

Something is better than nothing.... It will just delay the inevitable when it comes.

Or, don't worry about it and just figure it's a maintenance cost and have the dealer do their walnut treatment... Something like $500.00?? / 50,000 miles is a penny a mile.... So, big deal???

Anyway that my take on it....

 

Just tell her is a designer purse for the car.:lol::idea::ihih:

FYI- I don't have a catch can I have a catch pan and I use it when I change my oil because my motor does not have this problem. :crazy::lol:


HAPPY SUNDAY MORNING!

 

Lots of companies out there making OCC's...
I have a 42 Designs that I modified...


Radium Engineering makes a single and a dual...

 

That's what most of these are. Respectable cans:lol:

 

Here is a good explanation of how a properly designed OCC works as presented by Radium Engineering....

Radium Engineering - Tech Articles

 

Don't rely on the syringe removal method too much... Especially in the colder northern areas of the country....

The OCC will catch an emulsion byproduct that's made up of oil and water that's been commingled and looks and feels like dirty mayonnaise or white lithium grease..... You can see this to certain extent collected under the oil cap on the valve cover in the winter. This stuff will also be caught on the filtering discs inside the OCC.... Dipping the syringe past these discs to collect the liquid in the bottom of the can doesn't remove the mayonnaise..... The only way is to remove the OCC and give it a good flushing with hot water and soap to emulsify the stuff off the collection filters.... This thorough cleaning is needed more frequently in the winter and less frequently or perhaps never in the warm summer months....

 

Hah...
Approved by JM...
I feel all tingly now..... Maybe its the WD40 I applied this morning.... :aureola:

 

^^^ This...

 

You might also look into Saikou Michi.
http://www.saikoumichi.com/

Very well made, dual can design for the R56.

 

Actually, catching condensation is correct..somewhat..lol. as the valve cover creates pressure some condensation is pushed out and captured by the baffles in the can. What people fail to understand in the motor design is the actual fuel injection rail system.

Older cars would splash fuel over the valves. This reduced carbon build up since oil and gases were burned together. Newer motors are now closed systems and require the excess oils and sludge to be rerouted.

You answered your own question. " I used gasoline to clean out my intercooler." So yes, oils and sludge are being routed back to the intake system to be burned off. Its why most newer cars now have dual cats.

The catch can would reduce the amount of sludge and carbon build up. Not solve the issue but minimize the amount of gunk being deposited onto the valves.

Audi/VW/BMW tuners have been using these cans since the introduction of the FSI motors.

 

Welp... The best ones use some form of "Phase Change" to coalesce the the fumes into a droplet that can then be collected.... None of them are perfect... But some are better than others...

And anything collected doesn't get to the valves... I collect quite a bit more moisture during the colder months while the engine attempts to reach proper operation temperature..... I now collect much less water but mostly just a little oil...

But not much at all really... As a result my engine doesn't seem to use much oil at all between oil changes...

 

Most come with a little shut off drain valve in the bottom.... Any way you try... They are almost impossible to reach...

My OCC is attached to my strut bar... I completely remove mine with 4 cap screws and disconnect the two hoses...

I collect my snot in clear plastic water bottles and mark the date (probably should add the milage)... After a while the liquid settles out and you can see the oil and water condensate as the two separate...

I elect to then add soap to the can and do a good cleaning with hot water to keep all the perforations open... Not too efficient if they all get plugged with gunk....

The whole procedure takes about 30 minutes....

 

^^^ thanks for the syringe info. That makes good sense and is probably super easy too.

 

I have the BSH can. To drain it, just unscrew the bottom plug. I use a small funnel w/hose attach and drain to catch pan under engine. (like changing oil)

 

I'm not sure that the wife would be happy with me spending $200 on a can!

 

I went brain dead after I emptied my BSH catch can and forgot to to plug it. I drove for two days before I noticed my brainfart. I checked oil level which was fine but did I do any damage?