Mine was no problem at all. Not sure what could be going on without seeing pictures or such.
Jim
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Jason Montague New MemberLifetime Supporter
like to here your driving impressions after the install and some spirited and regular city/hwy driving.Hope all goes well.
Jasonopcorn:
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Please do post pic's
from your description not sure if issue is with old or new
I recall when I put mine in that I had to man handle the bottom of the engine to adjust it into place. Not a huge deal but had to be done. That is of course one of the main connctions between the chassis and the engine and there is a little play. -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
When I did mine (R56), I had to pull both bolts out and drop the arm. Make sure the small impressions in the factory rubber molding is completely clean since the NM parts need to fully seat. I then re- installed, the small end first and then the large end. I had to wiggle the engine in order to get the bolts to pass through all the layers of the bracket and arm bushing. And then re-torqued the nuts.
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Way Motor Works New Member
Squeeze them into the bushing as best as possible. Then you should be able to push it back into the subframe, if you can't go ahead and use a hammer to tap it back into place.
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Thanks for all the helpful suggestions; unfortunately, I ended up needing to run out, so I bolted it back together without the new bushings (at least I got to break in my new torque wrench!). The inserts were seating in just fine into the torque arm... the clearence on the subframe was just exceptionally tight. I'll give it another try this coming weekend with a few extra things on hand (had a few other suggestions from another site):
*Soap/grease/WD-40/slippery sort of substance to help fit it in.
*Rubber mallet for 'assistance'
*Large C clamp (hook one end over the subframe, the other under the arm, and screw it up into place... in theory)
I'll also make sure to have the camera on hand for documentation/further troubleshooting if need be.
Should also note for posterity... R56... 2010 MC -
Dwight Racing with the GodsLifetime Supporter
I put a thin coat of silicone grease on the bushing and then used a screw type bar clamp to both seat the bushing and put the torque arm back into place. Slid right in!
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So I finally had the time and cooperative weather to go back out and take care of this. It's a nice, easy process... took maybe 15 minutes and that's with me taking my time and taking a few shots of the process.
Here's the inserts as they arrived from Outmotoring. The NM tag unfolds into a printed copy of the installation .pdf
For those who have never looked underneath their MINI, the torque arm is just a little ways in from the front, a little off to the right hand side of the car. If you look in the above picture, you can see my rachet driver hanging down from one of the bolts.
So here's the torque arm, itself. There are two 16mm bolts to deal with - the one the rachet is currently on is the connection to the subframe, and you can see the exposed bolt head that attaches to the engine.
Here, the bolt attaching the arm to the subframe has been removed; the second bolt has been loosened so the arm will move easily. I did not remove it due to very close spacing to the exhaust made it more trouble than it was worth. The inserts fit in easily enough that removal wasn't necessary. There is only one way the inserts can fit in and they go in fairly easily. There was one spot that didn't want to seat in with hand pressure, but that was easily fixed with a c-clamp (sorry, that pic didn't come out).
The arm is now a very tight fit and would not go back into place with hand pressure. I gave each side of the inserts and each side of the subframe a quick shot of WD-40 and tapped it back in with a rubber mallet.
Just a bit of figeting (and another tap or three with the mallet) and the arm is back in place. All that was needed after this picture was to tighten the bolts, make sure they are properly torqued in (80 fps) and it's done!
Having test driven it for a bit, I'm pleased with the initial results. There is a very slight vibration when at idle... so faint that I'm still not positive I'm just imagining it or not. The most noticable results have been on slow take-off from a stop... light pressure on the accelerator is immediately transferred to the drive instead of just moving the engine in it's mounts before moving the car. I'll post more once I've given the car a bit more thorough testing. -
Rixter Well-Known Member
Great photos. Love the curb ramp!
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
You did this work around lunchtime, correct??? Those are chicken bones, right?
Glad it worked out for you, I sure like mine....:cornut: -
One of these days, it's going. -
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Rixter Well-Known Member
So JT, when you 'tapped' it in with the rubber mallet, was the torque arm still attached to the car or did you remove it at the time?
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
-
Rixter Well-Known Member
Thx guys!
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Yet again, something I didn't know I wanted or needed to do until after I saw it.
Thanks for the photos JT.
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