Basically he HAD to replace the stock cam; I'm not a fan of the NS1 for improving the performance over stock, but he needed a new cam, and putting the NS1, for the cost, this is actually one of the few times it would ever make sense. He's getting stock cam performance, but the NS1 probably ended up being cheaper than a stock cam, so it's all good. I don't want to bash the Tummi; someone new who is working with a new high mileage MINI gets props from my perspective.
There is a reason why you don't see dyno's of the NS1. If you saw an honest one, you wouldn't buy one for an MCS; at least if you were specifically buying it for an improvement over stock. You only are going to see dyno's with significant deltas, and you won't see that with an NS1 on an MCS on a before and after, hence the lack of data....The NS1 was always marketed on the principle of the "butt dyno", which in and of itself is enlightening.
Dyno's of the NS1 on MCS do exist however, and I have mixed feelings on why they haven't been shown, but that's not my call, and I'm not going to call anyone out on it specifically. The data is out there, by people who know (and know better), but you'll never see it posted. One thing you can take to the bank--if the curves were outstanding, they'd be all over the place.
C0op3r--you got your post in right before mine--I agree 100%. And you also made my day--that was total improper use of the phrase, "motor on", but it's funnier than all heck!! I'll have to find the thread how that phrase became what it is today, and since I sorta put it out there with it's alternate meaning, suffice it to say it's not very nice, like most of my posts, although I'm pretty sure you didn't intend it that way.
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as I said from the start and was proven correct.............the stock ignition coil is good to at least 600whp...........so why would you need aftermarket parts that HAVE BEEN PROVEN TO FRY ECU's???? We have already replaced at least 4 ecu's with fried ignitors inside the ecu. That's a bare minimum repair bill of $1800.........
So tell me again WHY WOULD YOU DO THIS?-
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Tummi_Gummi New Member
I have a dog name patches and 3 monkies named, poop thrower #1-3. Also have a couch in my living room for sittin on.
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Tummi_Gummi New Member
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
Stay with the OEM coil.
UPDATE: I did the Google research for you.
The MSD has been know to cause expensive problems like fried ecu. No gains & a chance for a big loss.
Yes its a "known" "possibility" with minis in particular that they cook, and it has been "known" to cook computers (DME) or other electronics.
Over the years, we've seen cracked MSD units and more problems than solutions. If you're willing to spend the money, it's your choice.
Just keep in mind that many higher HPs Minis are still running the oem coil pack, mainly because that except for corrosion on a terminal, those things are pretty reliable. Nothing that a once in a while inspection and some dielectric grease can't prevent.-
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Aything you do to help a motor "breathe" will result in seeing lower boost on a boost gauge....
Remember....
A cam is keeping the valves open longer....letting more air into the motor...so less back pressure....so lower boost....but more power!!
Boost comparisons are only useful until a mechanical change happens...(like s new cam)then you will have a new "baseline" boost your setup makes....then watch the NEW number for sudden changes....
Think about it this way....a car with a plugged cat will run at very high boosts but not make much power or run right....so boost DOES NOT INDICATE POWER, just how easy you car is breathing, or ...and a sudden change WITHOUT A MECHANICAL CHANGE does/can indicate an issue......but in you case, it just shows the valves ARE OPEN more....-
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Well that was fun, just catching up to this thread.
Now play nice boys...-
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TheModFather Well-Known Member
- May 15, 2012
- 5,310
- 11 years in the ARMY, 2 years of being a multitale
- Ratings:
- +5,322 / 0 / -0
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
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A running car is always a good thing!!
Guess a near normal idle is good for a street car....
The "loaping" idle common with aggressive cams is kinda neat...but usually means at "street" rpms it is a DOG.....cams are a bit of a tradeoff....the art is picking a cam that meets YOUR needs!! Can't wait to hear if you like it around town!!-
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And even though I can not say it might go hand in hand with you loss of power, I would have to wonder that the moment you put that cam in you lost power? So either something did not go back together right or something is outta wack.
I am not trying to down that cam, but there are better choices. Maybe the Newman or the RMW unit.
But at the end of the day if you are happy, then Happy Motoring.
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
Here's the funny part of all your posts, you talk all this BS on the web but when I say I am coming out to Cali you clam up and go underground for a month or so. :confused5:
What's the problem? Did you not want to see me face to face and talk crap? :cryin: I did not think so..... web muscles. :frown2:-
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I have always believed high out put ignitions do nothing until you are looking for that last little bit of performance left to squeeze out of a motor. Even then with modern systems that is suspect.
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