Aything you do to help a motor "breathe" will result in seeing lower boost on a boost gauge.... Remember.... A cam is keeping the valves open longer....letting more air into the motor...so less back pressure....so lower boost....but more power!! Boost comparisons are only useful until a mechanical change happens...(like s new cam)then you will have a new "baseline" boost your setup makes....then watch the NEW number for sudden changes.... Think about it this way....a car with a plugged cat will run at very high boosts but not make much power or run right....so boost DOES NOT INDICATE POWER, just how easy you car is breathing, or ...and a sudden change WITHOUT A MECHANICAL CHANGE does/can indicate an issue......but in you case, it just shows the valves ARE OPEN more....
Its not a whole lot different in comparison but see my stock cam had worn down a lot. So my valves weren't opening as much as they should have. Now I have restored the valve lift plus a little as well as a slight increase to duration. The car feels faster. How much? I can't say but I am spinning in 1st now on 70+ degree days whereas before I could only spin 1st if it was like 40 degrees or colder out. I always breathe in outside air +7-10 F unless I have been idling. The engine bay cooks when my bonnet is shut. I really want to do some hood vents. I just can't find ones I like enough to cut up my hood for.
How should the dt bypass valve feel? I mean I can get one finger on the butterfly arm and push it open with not a whole lot of effort. It swings back tight fairly strong. Not sure if the springs going or what. I think before it used to really take some effort to get it open. I've had it for about a year. Maybe 20k miles?
Call Chad at Detroit Tuned and ask him about the bypass valve. I always go to the source of the part rather than ask people on the Internet if I have this type of question.
Don't remember seeing lots of posts about the op's cam...simply not that popular...but sometimes folks choose parts on wanting bragging rights....sometimes the tq curve is more important than top end HP....so sometimes the "right" part and the part that makes the most HP at redline might not be one and the same...what counts is the person that spent the $$ is happy with the outcome....in this case the can change MIGHT have saved the op a motor.... But he said the lobes on his were pretty well worn......so any changes he sees might be magnified compared to "typical".....
Unfortunately what they are saying is true, supposedly the NS1 was a slightly better grind for the Justa' Coopers but in the S models you are lucky to be making stock power. And even though I can not say it might go hand in hand with you loss of power, I would have to wonder that the moment you put that cam in you lost power? So either something did not go back together right or something is outta wack. I am not trying to down that cam, but there are better choices. Maybe the Newman or the RMW unit. But at the end of the day if you are happy, then Happy Motoring.
Basically he HAD to replace the stock cam; I'm not a fan of the NS1 for improving the performance over stock, but he needed a new cam, and putting the NS1, for the cost, this is actually one of the few times it would ever make sense. He's getting stock cam performance, but the NS1 probably ended up being cheaper than a stock cam, so it's all good. I don't want to bash the Tummi; someone new who is working with a new high mileage MINI gets props from my perspective. There is a reason why you don't see dyno's of the NS1. If you saw an honest one, you wouldn't buy one for an MCS; at least if you were specifically buying it for an improvement over stock. You only are going to see dyno's with significant deltas, and you won't see that with an NS1 on an MCS on a before and after, hence the lack of data....The NS1 was always marketed on the principle of the "butt dyno", which in and of itself is enlightening. Dyno's of the NS1 on MCS do exist however, and I have mixed feelings on why they haven't been shown, but that's not my call, and I'm not going to call anyone out on it specifically. The data is out there, by people who know (and know better), but you'll never see it posted. One thing you can take to the bank--if the curves were outstanding, they'd be all over the place. C0op3r--you got your post in right before mine--I agree 100%. And you also made my day--that was total improper use of the phrase, "motor on", but it's funnier than all heck!! I'll have to find the thread how that phrase became what it is today, and since I sorta put it out there with it's alternate meaning, suffice it to say it's not very nice, like most of my posts, although I'm pretty sure you didn't intend it that way.
Before I even post the pictures I will say my rocker arms had no nicks or grooves to the feel. Which is odd with the condition of my cam I removed. Yes there was heat marks but nothing you could feel with your finger nail. I am on a tight budget especially after my fiancé rolled and totaled her car.
Well the OP was looking to modify his performance, otherwise I am sure he would have plugged a stock cam back in.
:yikes: Noooooooo.........not a MSD coil!!!!...your car will implode.....burn up......wheels fall off......airbags go off.......windows roll down......cigarette lighter stop working......:mtrn:
Then your job will be down-sized.....your pay cut....your dog will die.....and your wife will leave....all cause you used a MSD COIL!!!!:ihih:
For all the "know it all's" do a little research and reading up on the MSD coil in an MINI and you will see what they have been known to do. I guess Ron White is still right "you can't fix stupid" :lol: