Being an 06 with 80K miles I'd start looking at lower control arm bushings. But its only in one corner making it quite unique.
Would you happen to be pushing it a little more in that corner than others?
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ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
My oem LCA bushings went out with only 28k.
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Yesterday, I took d'Mini to Munchen Motors in Mandeville, LA for an oil change and asked them to check the front end. What they said was front control arm bushings need to be replaced (good call, y'all) for $640. The hose from the power steering reservoir to the rack is also leaking; they said replacing it is more critical than the bushings, $380.
Keep in mind that I'm not near the Baton Rouge or New Orleans shops - do these seem like reasonable charges? -
If your replacing the LCA bushings you might want to upgrade to something like powerflex. There is a ton of compliance in the OEM bushings.
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Reasonable is relative, a dealership has high overhead, higher labor and parts rates are to be expected.
Whether or not the leaking hose is critical depends on the extent of the leak or if the hose is damaged. The hoses aren't under pressure or vacuum, so weeping won't affect pump performance, but low fluid levels would. As long as fluid shows on the level indicator attached to the cap it's safe. The fluid can be found at retail auto parts stores and a 1 liter can will last a very long time unless the leak is a full-on drip.
The first fix to try is re-crimping the OE clamps, purchase (or borrow) CV boot clamp pliers for ear type clamps and give them a squeeze. If that doesn't last then replace with standard screw hose clamps. The only reason to replace a hose is for damage. -
Munchen isn't a dealership, except for a dozen or so bimmers & mercedes. Thanks for the hint about the powerflex option - do they last longer than oem? If polyurethane is stiffer, what's the trade-off? I'll try the hose clamp fix - thanks!
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There are two hoses coming out of the reservoir. The front (larger) one is dry below the tank. The smaller one, closer to the cabin looks a little damp. The clamp on it is facing the air intake, so its almost impossible get to with without disassembling a bunch of stuff. No wonder the labor charge is high!
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I replaced mine at the top so I know it can be done. More than likely it is a clamp at the bottom. Drive up on ramps and have a look.
To access the hose in the rear up top, remove the header heat shield (optional), remove the reservoir bracket, bend the heat shield upward, and lean the reservoir to one side.
There is a comfort penalty with polyurethane bushings, more so in the cold. If you buy into the poly bushing hype, the bushings offered by Madness are at least a little softer than Power Flex and better suited for the daily driver. -
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I am on some warranty replacement OEM rubber bushings at the moment, but they will not last forever, or maybe even long, so I have a decision coming up. -
Powerlex
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How much fluid should there be? I have about a quarter inch showing on the stem thing sticking down.
"If you buy into the poly bushing hype"? Sounds like you don't. What is your opinion? -
The first generation control arm end rotates on a variable axis. The arm is not positioned at a strict right angle nor on single plane, and as the elbow moves over the ball joint, the end (inside the bushing) pivots while rotating. It also moves fore and aft at the same time. The OEM bushing dampens fore and aft movement, allows the arm to follow its natural Zen path to self realization, plus dampens high frequency vibrations with amniotic like fluid cushioning within, and provides a measure of anti-lift when healthy. The OEM bushing does not allow anywhere near the extraneous movement many believe.
The design of the poly bushing assumes it is a perfect geometrical world where the control arm turns on its center axis. The second generation design is closer to that ideal and the current crop of poly bushings are more appropriate in that application. Polyurethane by nature is not very forgiving and does not absorb high frequency energy very well, I find that characteristic slightly annoying when I'm on the street where my mind and body have the time to pay attention to details like that. Forcing the control arm to conform to a path of greater resistance makes itself known over expansion joints and other road surface irregularities. The up side for most poly material is longevity, when used with proper lubrication poly control arm bushings can last indefinitely, so instead of replacing a comfy OEM bushing every 30k miles, a poly bushing will only require cleaning and fresh lube. -
lotsie Club Coordinator
But the Zen path is my favorite part
Mark -
Excellent statement of the case for each. I can see why many decide to switch to the polyurethane bushings. My inclination is follow k-huevo's practice, I think because the oems have lasted about 80K and, while I am satisfied with my car's ride, I am contemplating other changes that will introduce further harshness, so I don't think I will do it with this. Thanks, all.
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Any thoughts? -
I think I figured something out. I think the reason I feel the movement in the steering wheel in a hard corner is that I am hanging on to it to keep myself upright. :idea:
I have a schroth harness that I had not installed partly because I was avoiding a scene with my wife (what's that? why do you need that? how much was it? etc.) and partly because I didn't think the red color (got it used, couldn't be picky, see my post about trading it for a black one) would look all that good in my car (BRG/tan & black leather). Anyway, last night when the above revelation came to me, I decided to take the plunge and install it. My daughter (10) got in the car this morning for her ride to the bus stop saw it and said "that's cool, I want one!" Haha. Now I stay where I belong in the car, light touch on the wheel, no more problem. At least I think that's it, gotta hit a few more curves to make sure.
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