Most liked posts in thread: OEM horns died...AGAIN!

  1. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    I have air honks on my NOT N MG. They are the typical type with a separate compressor. I really don't see or rather hear any lag. My guess is the bad-boy horn would not either since it is all in one compact unit with no air hoses to run. This is just old fart speculation based on how many donuts I did not eat this morning. :wink:
     
  2. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    If I were to find an air compressor tank that would fit in the space under the passenger-side cowl vent, would there be any danger to installing it there and actually installing real air horns down the road?

    Is there a risk to installing an air compressor in the boot?
     
  3. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    You would need a bigger compressor than comes with standard air horns. Erica I think this is going way over the top. Those Bad-boy honks are going to be plenty loud. :eek6:
     
  4. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    Duly noted. :D
     
  5. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    Ok...today is T-H-E day...do or die trying!

    Starting with the #86 male on the relay, I will use a female disconnect to attach approx. 4" of red 12g wire to the #86 terminal on the relay.

    The other end of the 4" wire will go into a butt connector which will also include one side of the 20-amp add-a-fuse. The other end of the butt connector will be approx 4" of red 12g wire which will then be attached via female disconnect to the #30 male on the relay.

    I will be using a ring terminal to connect the other side of the 20-amp add-a-fuse to the battery. ***If there's a better method, please let me know.***

    I will be using red 12g wire via a female disconnect to attach the (+) on the Bad Boy to the #87 male on the relay.

    I will be using black #12 wire via a female disconnect to attach the (-) on the Bad Boy and then use a ring terminal to attach it to a ground point in the engine bay.

    This leaves the #85 terminal on the relay which is for the horn button relay if I were installing a separate horn button for the Bad Boy (which I'm not).

    So...if this is all proper & correct, I'm still confused by how I will be attaching the setup so that the Bad Boy will be activated when I push the horn on the steering wheel.

    The OEM horns are not being removed at this time; the Bad Boy is supplementing the OEM horns.
     
  6. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    My ears are covered.....:D
     
  7. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    Does that mean my plans as outlined are correct?

    I'm still confused as to how the Bad Boy is going to "work" if it's not linked to the OEM Horn relay somehow...
     
  8. DneprDave

    DneprDave Well-Known Member
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    They died again! This thread is ten pages long, how many times have they died?:biggrin5:

    Poor Erica's oem horns must have been made after a four day weekend!:lol:

    I know you are installing louder aftermarket horns, but it's just the title of the thread that tickles me, everytime I log on they've gone and died again!:cryin:

    Dave
     
  9. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Just to make it simple for now.... disconnect the OEM connectors going to the OEM horns and connect them to #85 & #86 on the relay. The rest of your connections read OK. Turn on your ignition and hit the horn button, the Bad Boy should work but the OEM horns won't.

    If you want both systems to work run jumpers from #85 and #86 back to the OEM horns.....:D
     
  10. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Well..... the factory horns are being powered via the OEM relay. Moving the OEM horn wires over to the Bad Boy relay is simply powering the new relay which in turn is completing the connection between #30 (battery) and the Bad Boy.
     
  11. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    I'm about ready to give up on this damned project.

    Earlier in the thread I was told to NOT use quick-splices to connect the OEM wiring to the new wiring...so how in the heck am I supposed to do as you suggest?

    I'm hot, tired & cranky and a sudden thunderstorm has just rolled in...so please bear with me.

    In my head I visualize cutting the OEM wiring and then installing a butt connector to each wire coming from the harness and then having the other other end of the butt connector holding two wires: 1 to the OEM connector and 1 to the Bad Boy.
     
  12. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Erika...
    Make a run to Columbus this coming weekend and I'll hook them up for you, no charge.
     
  13. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    I'd love to make a run up to Ohio, but I'm in the Norfolk area of Virginia.

    Now, if it were during Labor Day weekend, that'd be a different story because I have a 4-day weekend and wouldn't be spending all weekend on the road.

    Have you installed your Hellas?
     
  14. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    I have everything else ready except for anything dealing with the OEM horn wiring.

    What is the best way to tap into the OEM horn wiring so that I can make the connection to the Bad Boy relay?

    1 wire in + butt connector = 2 wires out with 1 of those wires butt connected to the oem plug for the oem horn

    Please tell me I'm getting closer...
     
  15. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    The Hellas are still laying in the Boot of my MINI. Too hot and humid for me right now.

    For now, just connect the OEM horn wires to 85 and 86 on your new relay. When you hit the horn button inside the MINI you should hear the new relay switching on and off (takes 2 people to do this). That noise is the energizing of the relay solenoid operating the contacts that will complete the circuit to the Bad Boys.

    You do need to have the ignition on to power the OEM circuit.
     
  16. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Sounds like you are.
     
  17. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    Ok...so there's no avoiding cutting the OEM wiring?

    The OEM wiring is so thin compared to the 12g that I'm using...won't there be an issue with connecting the two different wire gauges?

    If no issue, using two quick-splices SHOULD work, yes?
     
  18. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Well, if you don't want to cut the wires there is something else you can consider.

    There is a push on spade connector that is made to give you a second terminal. They allow you to maintain the same OEM connection but they have a second spade that you can tap into. This would preserve your OEM wiring.

    I have to search for a supplier..... Give me a few...
     
  19. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    OK, here you go....
    They are called splitters / adapters and piggyback quick disconnect terminals. They are made as male and female connectors. These are quick and easy taps that don't require cutting of the OEM wiring.

    You might be able to find these at home depot where you only need to buy a couple.
    McMaster-Carr
     
  20. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    Thanks for looking those up, but by looking at the pics, I can't figure out how they tap into the OEM wiring that hasn't been cut. The pics show "crimp style" connectors. Is there a specific pic or part # I should be looking at?