Just to make it simple for now.... disconnect the OEM connectors going to the OEM horns and connect them to #85 & #86 on the relay. The rest of your connections read OK. Turn on your ignition and hit the horn button, the Bad Boy should work but the OEM horns won't. If you want both systems to work run jumpers from #85 and #86 back to the OEM horns.....
Well..... the factory horns are being powered via the OEM relay. Moving the OEM horn wires over to the Bad Boy relay is simply powering the new relay which in turn is completing the connection between #30 (battery) and the Bad Boy.
I'm about ready to give up on this damned project. Earlier in the thread I was told to NOT use quick-splices to connect the OEM wiring to the new wiring...so how in the heck am I supposed to do as you suggest? I'm hot, tired & cranky and a sudden thunderstorm has just rolled in...so please bear with me. In my head I visualize cutting the OEM wiring and then installing a butt connector to each wire coming from the harness and then having the other other end of the butt connector holding two wires: 1 to the OEM connector and 1 to the Bad Boy.
I'd love to make a run up to Ohio, but I'm in the Norfolk area of Virginia. Now, if it were during Labor Day weekend, that'd be a different story because I have a 4-day weekend and wouldn't be spending all weekend on the road. Have you installed your Hellas?
I have everything else ready except for anything dealing with the OEM horn wiring. What is the best way to tap into the OEM horn wiring so that I can make the connection to the Bad Boy relay? 1 wire in + butt connector = 2 wires out with 1 of those wires butt connected to the oem plug for the oem horn Please tell me I'm getting closer...
The Hellas are still laying in the Boot of my MINI. Too hot and humid for me right now. For now, just connect the OEM horn wires to 85 and 86 on your new relay. When you hit the horn button inside the MINI you should hear the new relay switching on and off (takes 2 people to do this). That noise is the energizing of the relay solenoid operating the contacts that will complete the circuit to the Bad Boys. You do need to have the ignition on to power the OEM circuit.
Ok...so there's no avoiding cutting the OEM wiring? The OEM wiring is so thin compared to the 12g that I'm using...won't there be an issue with connecting the two different wire gauges? If no issue, using two quick-splices SHOULD work, yes?
Well, if you don't want to cut the wires there is something else you can consider. There is a push on spade connector that is made to give you a second terminal. They allow you to maintain the same OEM connection but they have a second spade that you can tap into. This would preserve your OEM wiring. I have to search for a supplier..... Give me a few...
OK, here you go.... They are called splitters / adapters and piggyback quick disconnect terminals. They are made as male and female connectors. These are quick and easy taps that don't require cutting of the OEM wiring. You might be able to find these at home depot where you only need to buy a couple. McMaster-Carr
Thanks for looking those up, but by looking at the pics, I can't figure out how they tap into the OEM wiring that hasn't been cut. The pics show "crimp style" connectors. Is there a specific pic or part # I should be looking at?
Aw carp.... I had push on spade connectors in my mind. The MINI has a molded waterproof connector, sorry. That's why Steve cut his off. Decision time here, you can go the route of the wire taps that cut through the insulation (which by the way I hate). Or go the complicated route and try to find a matching male and female OEM connector off of RealOEM and make your own "Y" splice. Or do what Steve did and add the splitter connector from McMaster Carr. You might see if the OEM horn plug can be snapped open (sometimes they can be for easy damage replacement), if it can, you might be able to make a solder connection inside the plug. This would also preserve your wiring.
Man...my head H-U-R-T-S! I've been sitting here thinking maybe I'm over-thinking things and missing the obvious and then you clear things up by realizing the OEM connector is molded. :crazy: I'm shelving the project for the week. I still need to buy a replacement soldering set since my friend kept mine when he moved away, so even if I discover that the molded plug comes apart, I wouldn't be able to do anything at this point anyhow.
Looks like you can get the plug.... Item #3 I assume Cooper and Cooper S would be the same? RealOEM.com * BMW R53 Cooper S Horn
Ok...as I was cleaning things up & putting tools away, I took another look at the OEM wiring... The molded connectors don't appear to come apart, so internal soldering is out. Does anyone know the gauge of the OEM wiring?
Well, just so you know before you cut the wires... I'm going to see about getting one of those plugs, as I don't particularly want to cut my wires either. Then I'll try and locate the mate. If I'm successful, a simple jumper can be made. It turns out my 09 uses the same horn plug.
Maybe Steve still has his OEM connectors? I'm going to talk to one of the local club members; I got my 2nd set of OEM horns from him via his totaled '02 Cooper S and I'm going to see if I can get the OEM connectors and/or a section of the wiring harness.
Hey Erika, stopped by the dealer and picked up some replacement horn plugs. They do come apart, so now I just need to determine the best way to make a jumper. Dealer charged me $3.00 each plug.