Part #? My connectors look like those, but the connector on the right (which is attached to the wiring harness) doesn't come apart. Are you able to get it apart? I spoke with the club member I mentioned in a previous post and I'll be getting a section of the wiring harness & connectors sometime this week. Hopefully the wiring will be marked so I can get the official gauge, otherwise I'll need to strip it a bit and measure it since I have no idea how thick/thin the insulation is on the wire.
Yeppers, it comes completely apart. It's just the plastic part, the wire and electrical pins need to be reused from what's on the MINI, so be gentle when you take it apart. If you have one of those jewelers flat screwdrivers that will come in handy.
Looking over the instructions, there is actually another way to do it that requires a bit less wiring, but is not either B or C. It is sort of a hybrid and it what I inadvertantly "saw" when I glanced before. Basically it is most like Fig C. #30 is power from battery. (using fuse) #87 is positive to air horn. #85 is ground (you can make it close to the relay) #86 is the jumper from the old horn positive. *This tells the relay to close and make the air horn work. This is how I did it. It requires only a short ground in stead of the long run back to the front and the horns. It also means one less splice or whatever you decide to use. Just in case it helps.
So I got this fantastic book today, has a wealth of information... R56 Horn wire size= .75 mm squared or roughly SAE AWG 18 - 19 gauge wire...
YAY! Unfortunately, until I capture the electrical gremlins affecting my OEM horns (there's a new thread on it...) I won't be able to install the Bad Boy. But I will watch your project move forward to successful completion & then follow in your footsteps!
Erika, while you are weathering the storm you can think about this.... Posi-Tap..... Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap This is a handy way of connecting to the OEM wiring without cutting. One of their retailers is NAPA. This also doesn't require the purchase of a soldering iron..... I'm going to go this route to power the new horn relay for the Hella's. I'll be down at my shop figuring out where best to mount them. If you get bored with the storm, stop by and you can watch me work....
Hey Chuck, one on top of each fender would be a cool look. You will need red mirror caps to compliment them. :cornut: Those posi taps are pretty cool.
MM, If you're able to figure out how to remove the footwell fuse panel & flip it over, please share the details.
Sooooooo Much Help Here........ I stopped by NAPA and picked up my Posi-Taps..... Pretty neat little connectors....
I'd suggest putting some dielectric silicone when you assemble them. Either that of donut stuffing (vanilla). :donut1:
Erika, found this on Way's site. Looks like there are screws at the top and bottom that hold it in place. Hope this helps. Used R50,R53,Fuse Box - Way Motor Works Jim
So I went down to the shop to work on the MINI and at least try to spot a location to mount the Hella horns. Pulled the upper grill off, nope not much more than an inch of space, if that. Found an open pocket on either side next to the headlights. Got out the duct tape and loosely located the horns in said space. Nope, bonnet wouldn't close.... but oh so close, needed another 1/2". Is it me, or has anyone else noticed these cars don't have any $&?*&@!?*%! space to add things????? I'm thinking of just "bungee" strapping the horns to the spokes on my rims..... They won't work but maybe everyone that would be near me will know I'm running Hella's and won't dare do something stoopid around me for fear I'll use them. So that's it for today...... Failure..... But I still have tomorrow....
I never use my horns. Just realized last week that one was dead and the other sounded like a dying reindeer. Neither got better when I pounded on them. So ordered a pair of Supertones and installed yesterday, the right way, with the relay, etc. replacing the OEMs. MUUUUUUUCH better. Sounds like a MINI should. My wife hates them. Crazy... they worked perfectly the first time I pushed the button. I'm never that lucky/skillful in wiring new stuff... especially with relays and umpteen connectors/splices. For mine, I assembled a "hot" wire with a 30amp fuse and ran directly from the battery terminal on the air box, through the cowl area, and around the driver's (left) side of the engine, to the horn area on that side and connected to the input side of the relay using a pre-wired relay socket. Tapped the OEM horn wire there directly to the lead from the relay socket, so the relay is in that same area. Spliced the output lead from the relay to a short "hot wire with terminal for the horn there, as well as to the hot side of a long section of wire to run across to the passenger (right) side (went through the bumper bar, can unplug and pull it back through if I need to remove the bumper). Spliced together the ground lead from the relay socket to a short wire with terminal for the left horn, to the ground side of the wires to run across to the right side (so I wouldn't need to route a separate ground on that side) and to a foot or so to run up to the ground lug for the ECU. So I have everything self contained in the left side horn compartment, except for one easily movable red/black pair that runs across the front to the right side horn. Easy and clean.