1st Gen R53 Most liked posts in thread: Oil leak.

  1. Canusrufis

    Canusrufis RMW Powered R53
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    I think you've figured it out at this point. But, as confirmation, I had a similar leak and YES it was in fact a leaking timing cover gasket. Its a simple fix, cheap, and you can do it without pulling the motor -- takes longer to pull all the pulleys off than replacing the gasket. The gasket is super small (thin, round) and fits in a grove. I also replaced the oil pump seal rings ( 1 lower and 1 upper) and front main seal. Its all right there in front of you. And, note a few of the cover bolts have small sealing 0-rings. Good luck with that.
     
  2. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Lee,

    It looks like you have an old school TV Dinner on your intake box. Lol

    As for your oil leak look at your upper tensioner bolt area. Also the upper bushing on your tensions is going fail soon you don’t adjust it. Zoom in on you picture to see what I mean.

    I think you oil leak is up by the valve cover / timing chain cover area. Start with wrench and start checking the tightness of each bolt in that area. (Every bolt) Also double check the valve cover bolts torque settings because one of them could have backed out of spec.
     
  3. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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  4. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    @agranger @Dave.0 That is where I cook my food on long trips! Ok my CAI did not have a top so not so cold. So I made a top and seal it with metal tape. I cut a big hole in the plastic under the grill so it gets lots of cold air. I usually redo it when it starts to look bad. If you two want I will make you one.:D

    The valve cover is dry. The area around the crank polly did not have any wet oil. I could see behind the oil filter/oil cooler is is dry. The oil you see running across the oil pan is because it is jacked up on that one side.

    I will check the timing chain cove bolts. @Dave.0 it does look like the shock on the tensioner is leaking.

    Problem #2 when I turn the car from lock to lock I get a loud cracking/popping sound from the front end. I have jacked is up several times but every thing feels tight. It has almost 170k on it and all I have changed is the lower control arm bushings.

    I am going to let it run sitting still then jack it up and take the wheels off and poke around and see what I find.

    There is a 06 JCW with the factory aero kit and sun roof for sail about 3 hours from me. Its $5000 its starting to look good
     
  5. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    likely isn't a JCW then. in 05/06 these were factory options, not dealer installed. Sellers love to call their cars JCW because they see them sell for more, and most buyers don't know the difference.
     
  6. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    somewhere around the oil filter looks most likely. Some oil will move up with air flow and g forces, so unless there is a lot above that area, I wouldn't worry about anything higher than where you can find a lot of oil. It is amazing where you will find oil on the backside of the engine if you let the dip stick and CPS leak long enough. I had oil all over the car in the left side and all it was were those leaks behind the radiator.
     
  7. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    Not saying it's that. Looks like too much fresh flow to be creeping around from the front, unless something like the dip stick tube got unseated. That's unlikely. You'd also have oil on the alternator and not so much on the exhaust. I would check oil filter area in detail if possible. I bought a USB inspection camera just for stuff like that.
     
  8. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    I fixed one of them over 3 years ago, no leaks over 15k miles. Must confess, I always add some high temp RTV silicone to add a little extra insurance, though.

    None of my cars have had an oil leak after I fixed the ones I found on them. All three had dip stick and CPS sensor leaks. One had a top valve cover leak. That's it. All other oil found under the cars has to be blamed on the sloppy oil changer pulling a filter before it was fully drained or transmission oil drain bolts not tightened enough.
     
  9. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    could be tie rod ends. I replaced them on my 100k Mini last summer. The old ones were ok, but when I got them off, the link was just floppy loose, while the new part was nearly impossible to move in the ball joint or whatever it is called, just tight and unlikely to make any noise when pushed to the extreme steering positions at the end of your lock.

    could totally be something else, but at 170k, I would say all your ball joints and tie rod ends are worn out. .
     
  10. Dave.0

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    True, but some dealers still installed the JCW kits on cars.

    BMW / MINI had JCW kits in the supply line they needed sold because they knew the next car would have the great turbo N14 motor.
     
  11. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    big effort difference between dropping the subframe and taking the whole engine out, but I am thinking that at least one of my cars will soon have the engine out, mostly to do the clutch, maybe to do a differential, but mostly to clean everything up.

    It's actually not hard at all, I hear - under 90 minutes if you have a little practice :)

     
  12. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    With your 3 cars, I think you will have a little practice sooner or later!
     
  13. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    @Canusrufis Thanks! I thought it was odd place to have a leak but knowing someone els had the same problem is good confirmation. Good to know its not a hard job.
     
  14. Sully

    Sully Administrator
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    I say pull the engine and build it into a HP machine.. (note I give bad advice....). I pulled the 88M5 engine “because” it had a small oil leak in the back. Striker crank, bigger valves, customs pistons, custom tune and a few years later (long story...:() I think I’m a few weeks from putting it back in. However if calculations are correct, will have considerably more torque, longer power band and will be putting down ~340whp.. We will see...

    So again - build it “while you are there” :D
     
  15. Sully

    Sully Administrator
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    Winner... I would use the "ask for forgiveness" game plan here.
     
  16. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Tomorrow I am going let it just sit and run then jack it up and see if I can see where it is coming from. I will drop the front cover and look at the front. I didn't think of the dip stick tube.
     
  17. Sully

    Sully Administrator
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    What is that? A small camera that you can mount in there or one with a stethoscope (or whatever you call it?)
     
  18. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    He forgot to peel the foil back over the brownie compartment... it's gonna be all soggy now!

    How is the valve cover gasket? Most of the stuff on the bottom of the oil pan I would have blamed on a front crank sensor (those things start leaking within months of being installed), but several of those were way too high, IMHO, for that to be the sole cause.