I think you've figured it out at this point. But, as confirmation, I had a similar leak and YES it was in fact a leaking timing cover gasket. Its a simple fix, cheap, and you can do it without pulling the motor -- takes longer to pull all the pulleys off than replacing the gasket. The gasket is super small (thin, round) and fits in a grove. I also replaced the oil pump seal rings ( 1 lower and 1 upper) and front main seal. Its all right there in front of you. And, note a few of the cover bolts have small sealing 0-rings. Good luck with that.
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Canusrufis RMW Powered R53Lifetime Supporter
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
Lee,
It looks like you have an old school TV Dinner on your intake box. Lol
As for your oil leak look at your upper tensioner bolt area. Also the upper bushing on your tensions is going fail soon you don’t adjust it. Zoom in on you picture to see what I mean.
I think you oil leak is up by the valve cover / timing chain cover area. Start with wrench and start checking the tightness of each bolt in that area. (Every bolt) Also double check the valve cover bolts torque settings because one of them could have backed out of spec.-
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the type of camera I have - put it on a stick when you need it on a stick, but you can usually get away with the cable itself bent into the right shape to get it into inaccessible spaces. It has a light on the tip, so you can see in the dark spots, too
https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Inspection-Waterproof-Automotive-Semi-rigid/dp/B078QBQPBR/-
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@agranger @Dave.0 That is where I cook my food on long trips! Ok my CAI did not have a top so not so cold. So I made a top and seal it with metal tape. I cut a big hole in the plastic under the grill so it gets lots of cold air. I usually redo it when it starts to look bad. If you two want I will make you one.
The valve cover is dry. The area around the crank polly did not have any wet oil. I could see behind the oil filter/oil cooler is is dry. The oil you see running across the oil pan is because it is jacked up on that one side.
I will check the timing chain cove bolts. @Dave.0 it does look like the shock on the tensioner is leaking.
Problem #2 when I turn the car from lock to lock I get a loud cracking/popping sound from the front end. I have jacked is up several times but every thing feels tight. It has almost 170k on it and all I have changed is the lower control arm bushings.
I am going to let it run sitting still then jack it up and take the wheels off and poke around and see what I find.
There is a 06 JCW with the factory aero kit and sun roof for sail about 3 hours from me. Its $5000 its starting to look good-
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somewhere around the oil filter looks most likely. Some oil will move up with air flow and g forces, so unless there is a lot above that area, I wouldn't worry about anything higher than where you can find a lot of oil. It is amazing where you will find oil on the backside of the engine if you let the dip stick and CPS leak long enough. I had oil all over the car in the left side and all it was were those leaks behind the radiator.
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Not saying it's that. Looks like too much fresh flow to be creeping around from the front, unless something like the dip stick tube got unseated. That's unlikely. You'd also have oil on the alternator and not so much on the exhaust. I would check oil filter area in detail if possible. I bought a USB inspection camera just for stuff like that.
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None of my cars have had an oil leak after I fixed the ones I found on them. All three had dip stick and CPS sensor leaks. One had a top valve cover leak. That's it. All other oil found under the cars has to be blamed on the sloppy oil changer pulling a filter before it was fully drained or transmission oil drain bolts not tightened enough.-
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could totally be something else, but at 170k, I would say all your ball joints and tie rod ends are worn out. .-
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It's actually not hard at all, I hear - under 90 minutes if you have a little practice
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@Canusrufis Thanks! I thought it was odd place to have a leak but knowing someone els had the same problem is good confirmation. Good to know its not a hard job.
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I say pull the engine and build it into a HP machine.. (note I give bad advice....). I pulled the 88M5 engine “because” it had a small oil leak in the back. Striker crank, bigger valves, customs pistons, custom tune and a few years later (long story...
) I think I’m a few weeks from putting it back in. However if calculations are correct, will have considerably more torque, longer power band and will be putting down ~340whp.. We will see...
So again - build it “while you are there”-
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Tomorrow I am going let it just sit and run then jack it up and see if I can see where it is coming from. I will drop the front cover and look at the front. I didn't think of the dip stick tube.
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
I have a usb camera also. They look like this but mine is better quality. I hook it up to my iPad Pro 12.9 screen.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HD720P-WIFI-Endoscope-Camera-8mm-Lens-5M-3-5M-2M-1M-Snake-Pipe-Inspection-Iphone-Borescop/32756346544.html
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Waterproof-HD-2M-7mm-Endoscope-Lens-Mini-USB-Inspection-Camera-with-6-LED-Lights-Borescope-for-Android-Smartphone-PC-Laptop/924102324?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=9869&adid=22222222227083850308&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=t&wl3=196367365898&wl4=pla-314984353131&wl5=9007365&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115780161&wl11=online&wl12=924102324&wl13=&veh=sem -
agranger MINI of the Month June 2009Supporting Member
How is the valve cover gasket? Most of the stuff on the bottom of the oil pan I would have blamed on a front crank sensor (those things start leaking within months of being installed), but several of those were way too high, IMHO, for that to be the sole cause.-
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