It took me and Wellzy a couple of hours of trying to get my slave bled completely. And he knew what he was doing. It's a nightmare. You need to hold it at the right orientation, and tap on it with a wrench or something, while doing the stomp method. And have the proper tool to compress it. I hope I never have to screw with it again. Geesh.
I've been in your spot with my build. I had a clutch pedal that just wasn't right. I bled it a 1000 times, replaced it twice, and nothing seemed to work. It turned out it was a bad through out bearing. Hoping that isn't the case with yours, there is something that seems to really help:
Take a board and rod and wedge it between the seat and pedal to full depress the clutch pedal. Leave it depressed for 12-24 hours. This makes my clutch remarkable more firm every time I do it.
As for the pulley--they are a pain. I had to pull a JCW pulley of my replacement supercharger. I ended up cutting it off with a cut off wheel and a dremmel. It is a time consuming process, but it does work.
when I did my pulley on the SC I actually pulled the SC off of the car and had to use a press with a S!@# ton or pressure on it to remove the pulley after I did the same as you and bent the pulley. If you do cut it off just careful not to nick the shaft. as that may make for an ill fitting 15% pulley. (or which ever you are using)
P.S if you do pull it off it's a good time to freshen the oil in the reservoirs to keep the SC working for years to come. I did this at 85K and they were almost empty.
First, you can cut it. you'll need to cut it in several locations, cutting as much as you can without nicking the SC case or the SC shaft (actually, you can nick it a little). It will not cut completely off, you'll still have to use the puller but the cuts will fatigue the pulley so it'll come off.
I would highly recommend against using a torch on the pulley, you're at risk of cooking the seal on the needle bearings in the nose and will end up needing a rebuilt supercharger in 4,000 miles.
The low-profile craven puller MIGHT fit...are you 100% sure it is a stock s and not a JCW..very few JCW pullers are around....
BUT if you bent the pulley on the car....it most likely will not...
The puller is AN EXACT NEGATIVE of the factory pulley....
The craven wil still need a pretty good portion of the pulley to be 100% normal shaped...
If you distorted it...
IMO time to cut it off...
As for bleeding...have not done it (thank god), but have heard many folks who left it compressed overnight...then did it again....
One thing that MIGHT be worth trying...
Dot4 is pretty thin...dot3 is thicker...maybe use dot3 for the bleed...then run some dot4 when done...thicker fluid, might move the bubbles better....just reaching here...but might be worth it if you have a bottle on the shelf....
Thanks everyone! I just hope I can get the stupid slave to work! I hate to cut the pull off but I think this may be the safest corse of action. It was rusty so I sprayed it with WD40 before I left. I will try agin Tuesday when I get home.
I remember Alfas slave cylinder were a pain too. We found if you filled up the slave with fluid before you put it on that would help. I thought about doing that before I put it on, wish I had.:mad2:
MSC02 where are you located? I have a craven puller sitting on my shelf my friend has been trying to sell (might be able to make you a good deal). What clutch did you put in? I did my friends last weekend with a Valeo and had to pressure bleed it twice, first time was a dead pedal, second time still soft ish but engaging (I remember my valeo broke in and got firmer).
I'm in Memphis (the home of the King and the only place for real BBQ). I am up agents time. I want to get it done before I leave for the Dragon, and I still have my car and my sons car to go through. So I am about to start cutting. U am going to cut half way back then try the puller before I go all the way.
I put a Valeo in it. I left the old master cylinder on it so I would know the clutch was ok before I did the slave.
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