Engine Drivetrain 2nd Gen S Most liked posts in thread: OldBrokenWind's "Phoenix"

Sorry Dave, I've never been to the Dragon, and don't expect to either. If I can keep this thing together, I'm hoping to make a run at the Texas Mile in March / April. Been following them for a couple years now and haven't seen any Mini results. Hoping this mod will put me a bit closer to 500HP, which I'm told is what's necessary to get an MCS close to a 200MPH run. Still lots to do ---

 

Long overdue update --- Mid-March 2018, I was out troubleshooting a P28AA DV error (I'm using an external BOV / DV). In the middle of a hard accel, bang crash etc. --- it quit! After about a mile long AAA ride home, lotsa pissin' & moanin, then some rooting around under the hood, I found the center crank bolt was loose. Seems that during my last build, I used the old spec of 50Nm + 100 deg, instead of the newer spec of 50NM + 180 deg. Tear-down --- found all 8 ex valves stuck open and some lifters loose in the valley. Pulled the head and found minor piston damage from valve contact. Decision making time --- rebuild or part it out! Spent several months throwing money at the spouse, home, and family travel --- went too long focusing on the Mini. Early 2019 I decided that if it could be rebuilt for under $2K, I'd do it. Sent the head to my tuners head guy for valve replacement (I don't have the correct valve puller) and he found all intakes were also slightly bent. Head work, gaskets, couple tools, etc was just under $2K.

During re-assembly, found the DV / BOV was "frozen" closed, that's why the code. During re-assembly and talking with a few others, about the loose crank bolt, seems there are others who had similar issues. One of the guys developed a bolt "locking device" that should keep it from working loose, so I obtained one and installed it --- cheap insurance.

Anyhow, it's back together, got about 500 miles on it, and had a dyno pull last week. Picked up about 15 more WHP and torque is now over 400 ft-lbs. Been awhile since I added pics so here's a few more ---
Self explanatory ---

Ex Valves

Piston damage
Piston "repaired"
Crank center bolt locking device
Latest dyno chart

 

After a month or so of fighting parts too big and other parts not readily available, all except the DP is installed. But not without some big sacrifices --- had to lose the A/C compressor, hoses and radiator, to make room for a DP. Then the Aux Coolant Pump was pretty well covered up so the hose connections were almost impossible to make --- decided to not use it. Coolant radiator had to be relocated, down and forward, to make room for the turbo WG actuator --- lotsa Dremel work. Would've been a lot easier if I had relocated the oil cooler reservoir / filter. Regardless of final power out, I don't recommend this particular package as a desirable mod, unless you're going for a full-time track car.

Now I just gotta wait for a muffler shop appointment to get a DP fab'd --- probably early Jan. Then another week for ceramic coating and I should be ready for a dyno pull. Early Feb?

Car is becoming less and less of a "Daily Driver", as it was before my 500HP goal. Gonna be no fun in the NV high desert summer heat and too dangerous on wet winter roads.

Here's a couple pics --- before A/C removal --- trial fit


After A/C removal --- final install

 

Last Sept, I was pushing hard on a long gradual incline out in the middle of nowhere, and blew a #1 exhaust valve. Also lost the ground electrode on #1 plug. Those that can recognize the indications, tell me it was overheated and I have either a lean AFR or not enough WMI. Pretty sure the AFR is OK, so I added a WMI jet to each intake port and increased the single jet from 1.2 to a total of 2.0mm --- here's some pics of the changes. Note the homemade bracket supporting the MAF sensor and filter. Maybe someday I'll paint it. Also took out the long air tube from the front to the filter housing. Filter is now completely exposed to engine compartment heat. We'll see how air inlet temps respond.

Valves are now all SuperTech --- sodium filled inconel for ex and black nitrided SS for in. Should be able to handle a bit more heat now. Also found some heat range 9 plugs --- NGK R2556B-9/4962. Don't ask about the cost. First thing I noticed was it didn't like to idle at start-up --- took a minute or so to get happy. Tappets were a little noisy during first start-up, but they probably needed time to pump up. After a little break-in, idle smoothed out and tappets quieted down.

Been running for a couple months now --- really NICE, but have yet to really get on it --- FEAR! Also noticed the ICI pipe is an interference fit --- the built-in "dent", to clear the engine corner, is located in the wrong place. So I took my Dremel and cut away some of the Lock Bridge (as RealOEM calls it). Still a tight fit and needs more fine-tuning. Gonna shop around for a local aluminum welder, to fab a new section of the ICI pipe. Really disappointing!

 

Contact [email protected] --- designer and source. Note that it can be installed WITHOUT loosening the crank bolt.

 

I have a suction-cup mount for my Canon that's been used on a track a couple times --- rear window mount. Planning to use it or just pay the Texas Mile photo crew to film it. Gotta look up their rules on "stuff" allowed in the car during a run. But I'll consider your offer when the time comes --- thanx.

 

All valves were replaced --- Inconel for exhaust, SS for intakes. Between hi-temp valves and better WMI distribution, my overheating problems are hopefully resolved.

 

Get comfortable, this one is long-winded ---

Last post mentioned some dremel work. This is most of it ---


Then the oil cooler needed trimming to allow the turbo to fit ---


This pic is with two exhaust gaskets installed. Final install only has one but there is slight contact, no space as shown here.


DP was fab'd with pieces from my last version ---


Another view showing the other O2 sensor. Note the DP has since been ceramic coated ---


All together, minus a heat shield ---


Conclusion of a dyno pull, flames are more than I expected---


Latest and greatest dyno chart. Note the grid is for power and torque, not AFR and boost. And the driver only took it to just under 7K RPM. Might produce even bigger numbers with the fully rated 7.5K. Gotta educate the dyno operators? ---

Then the dyno conversion chart, showing the effects of my 4500' elevation, actual vs. sea level correction ---


These are the 2nd set of charts. 1st set was with a different WG actuator. Seems the factory delivered a turbo with a 0.5 Bar actuator, while the ads say it comes with 1.0 Bar. After some trouble-shooting, I found the difference and ordered a 1.5 Bar version.That 0.5 actuator caused about 50 WHP less than the 1.5 version, so I knew there was a problem. Now, to be honest, my gas tank was drained to about a half gallon of 91 octane, then I added 5 gals of VP 109. This was for the 1st dyno run. After replacing the actuator, I added another 5 gal can of VP, so the octane rating at the manifold was pretty close to full rating of 105.5, minimal dilution with 91. The dyno is about a 40 mile one-way, mountain drive from my home.

It should be noted that I ordered this turbo with a 0.92 A/R, to get max HP at high RPM's. As a result, the low RPM performance is lower than expected for a 500+ machine, compared to a NA or SC version. On the plus side, it's still a great DD / sleeper --- city driving is still doable and fun. A better street turbo would be one with a lower A/R --- tuner suggests the 0.72 version.

Another difference I found is boost. GTX2860R easily built to 35 PSI or more. G25-660 only gets up to 29 and that's at max RPM. Again, probably a characteristic of the 0.92 A/R and a 1.6L engine --- not enough cylinder volume to push the turbine.

During the dyno pulls, I also did a data log with my AccessPort, and sent results to EuroTechsAZ, who long ago installed my Manic stage 4 tune. He tells me the added WMI makes up for the possible short-comings of my otherwise OEM fuel system. LTFT, STFT, fuel, timing, all were well within expected limits. So, at least I shouldn't need a tune upgrade for this monster turbo.

One final note --- even with all the power gains, I still don't recommend this particular turbo version for a Mini. Maybe one with an external WG, but that would take a much different exhaust manifold and added "stuff". Maybe someday RPM Vancouver will have their package ready and installation guidelines available. It looks promising, and maybe a bigger PITA than my upgrade, but so far, I haven't heard about anyone using it. Maybe RevLimit will talk about their monster Mini --- 582BHP. BTW, 520 WHP converts to 589 BHP. Do I now have the "Baddest 1.6L N14"?

 

Here's a quick progress update ---

For those that aren't familiar with a Cylinder Support System, here's a couple pics of my original blown engine and the used one I'm rebuilding with the CSS installed.

I'm also balancing the piston / rod assys. Since all these parts are virgins, they're clean enough to be done on our dining room table. It took a little extra persuasion for the spouse, but it was OK'd. They came in within a gram of each other, with one being a lot more out than the other two, so I decided to trim it. Found an article on balancing that shows where a piston can be altered. After a little dremel and sandpaper work, they're all within 150mG of each other. The lightest set is 830.690 Grams. All the parts in the pic were included in the weight.

 

OK, I left out a bunch of intermediate stuff, but it's back up and running. Just started the break-in and will be at it for another couple weeks --- I'm slow!

Had more than my share of "do-overs", mostly 'cause I put it back together all by myself. Really shoulda had some help jockeying the engine back into the engine bay --- bent the hell out of an A/C tube and had to replace it, and had the driver-side headlight harness on the wrong side of the chassis.

During my first couple break-in runs, it quit on me --- out in the middle of nowhere. Managed to get a 20 buck AAA tow home, where I found a loose hose from turbo to FMIC. After running 30PSI before breaking it, you'd think I'd know enough to tighten post-turbo hose clamps better than water hose clamps. Careless!!!

Then there's an axle support, that bolts to the engine w/four big bolts. Shoulda put it on BEFORE mounting the engine --- a true PITA to access the bolts after it's installed.

While getting a wheel align and A/C charge, the tech told me about a serious oil leak at the pan. Seems I used a questionable gasket-in-a-tube that didn't like heat. Pulling the pan isn't that tough UNLESS you have a 3" exhaust pipe that cover one miserable bolt. Just another PITA!

Keeping the break-in pretty conservative --- Manic map "A", no WMI, and a default wastegate setting of about 15PSI. After the first 500 or so miles, I'll connect WMI, run map "B" and set the MBC to about 25PSI. Then I'll be ready for a Manic re-tune --- a dyno's being scheduled in Vegas during AMVIV next month. Differences between before and after builds are --- lower CR pistons, from 10.5:1 (77.0mm) to 9.0:1 (77.5mm), a block with a CSS, it now has a balanced crankshaft and CAT Cams (#1302603 for those who want to compare cam specs). I don't expect to top my previous 360+ WHP, but it should put down 300+! It's starting to feel pretty good, even while at these low break-in settings.

 

Here's the dyno runs from my AMVIV visit. Map "C" is awesome, but map "B" isn't too bad either. Dyno wasn't connected to the ignition system so the RPM numbers aren't correct. Tuner raised the max RPM to 7.5K. Also gotta do some more data logging to verify the boost drop from MBC settings to 5 - 6 PSI lower. I'm thinking the dyno hose caused it, but the tuner thinks I'm maxing out the big Garrett with my Cat Cams.