Right after I bought mine from JMTC, they told me they were changing their ICI pipe fabricator --- possibly 'cause I crabbed about the way the WMI port was added. Also the built-in "dent" to minimize an interference fit, is in the wrong location --- there's serious interference! Arric probably couldn't find another source to fab it at a reasonable price --- it's a really tight fit, with a couple critical bends. I suggest you take your car to someone that works with pipe, and have them custom-build one for you. Performance gains are noticeable on the butt dyno, plus Arric had a chart showing the HP gains, but it probably went away with the pipe.
Sorry for the delay - just picked this up.. good suggestions, I'll need to try and figure out how to do that (i.e. suggest adding pic of Dyno charts.. etc). Also - love reading this build thread... making a list of items to check on mine. Since I didn't do the build, I'm going to have to do some investigation (and question asking for Mario).. good stuff.
Long overdue update --- Mid-March 2018, I was out troubleshooting a P28AA DV error (I'm using an external BOV / DV). In the middle of a hard accel, bang crash etc. --- it quit! After about a mile long AAA ride home, lotsa pissin' & moanin, then some rooting around under the hood, I found the center crank bolt was loose. Seems that during my last build, I used the old spec of 50Nm + 100 deg, instead of the newer spec of 50NM + 180 deg. Tear-down --- found all 8 ex valves stuck open and some lifters loose in the valley. Pulled the head and found minor piston damage from valve contact. Decision making time --- rebuild or part it out! Spent several months throwing money at the spouse, home, and family travel --- went too long focusing on the Mini. Early 2019 I decided that if it could be rebuilt for under $2K, I'd do it. Sent the head to my tuners head guy for valve replacement (I don't have the correct valve puller) and he found all intakes were also slightly bent. Head work, gaskets, couple tools, etc was just under $2K. During re-assembly, found the DV / BOV was "frozen" closed, that's why the code. During re-assembly and talking with a few others, about the loose crank bolt, seems there are others who had similar issues. One of the guys developed a bolt "locking device" that should keep it from working loose, so I obtained one and installed it --- cheap insurance. Anyhow, it's back together, got about 500 miles on it, and had a dyno pull last week. Picked up about 15 more WHP and torque is now over 400 ft-lbs. Been awhile since I added pics so here's a few more --- Self explanatory --- Ex Valves Piston damage Piston "repaired" Crank center bolt locking device Latest dyno chart
FYI - I know this is a long time coming. I had been trying to figure out a way to do this correctly.... finally to a point of hiring someone to do this. Still 1 - 2 months out for completion. But assuming the price is reasonable (should have quotes next week).. it will be done along with some other things similar to a leader board etc.
Contact [email protected] --- designer and source. Note that it can be installed WITHOUT loosening the crank bolt.
Been awhile since anything new happened, just been having fun driving this thing and planning the next upgrade. For the last couple years I've been looking at Garrett's new G25-660 turbo, and mounting it on a custom tubular manifold. Only manifolds I could find were either Italy or UK. RPM Canada has one also, but it needs an external waste gate and the oil filter has to be relocated. I'm not ready for that, and it's also still a prototype, and only available as part of a kit --- last I heard. I could also take the car to a local muffler shop and leave it with them for a month or so, while they designed a manifold --- not acceptable. Then the turbo --- contacted a couple local distributers about the flange / WG / AR options I wanted and both came back with "Not Available yet" from Garrett. Sent Garrett customer service a nastygram and the next day I heard from an out-of-state Garrett authorized distributor that he had one of my 2nd choice options in stock --- V-band instead of a T-4 flange. This caused me to change my manifold source 'cause only one of them would do the T-4 twin scroll, and he uses either 304 or 306 SS (I forget which). I'm told that 310S is preferred, and that's what my final choice was, a Scara73 version of their MOD350. After working with them about the turbo flange, it was decided I'd send them a Garrett mating flange, to ensure a proper fit. That set the delivery schedule back another week. So, the turbo's been setting on my bench for a month or so, while the manifold was fab'd. Couple days ago, the manifold arrived. Spent the last few days enlarging the exhaust ports and gasket to match Thumper's enlarged head ports. Now I'm ready to tear it down and check it for fit, then its out to a local source for a ceramic coat, external only. While waiting, I'll relocate the DV back to its previous location, just before the throttle body --- it seemed to function better there --- fewer P28AA codes after mild acceleration in town. Here's a couple pics of the manifold. More to follow after installation in a couple weeks.
NICE ! are you going to make it back to the Dragon next year? Can’t wait to see it and my motor and TVS will be done.
Sorry Dave, I've never been to the Dragon, and don't expect to either. If I can keep this thing together, I'm hoping to make a run at the Texas Mile in March / April. Been following them for a couple years now and haven't seen any Mini results. Hoping this mod will put me a bit closer to 500HP, which I'm told is what's necessary to get an MCS close to a 200MPH run. Still lots to do ---
Mark did a great job on the Helmet so the only room I have to make it better is HP. The question how much can I get out of an N14 engine before I have to open the bottom end. I would like to be able to get it to 250 or 275 at the wheels without doing a complete rebuild
Don’t push any N14 hard because they are built with glass and break / fail quickly when pushed. Cylinder #3 is known to toss the rod out of the block with too much boost. I aware BMW made the rods and pistons out of aluminum foil. I have seen this so many times with stock bottom ends on FB with Manic and RPM tunes. Mark had the Helmet custom tuned by Jan/ RMW so I would ask him for advice when seeking more Whp from any N14.
If you do it right & add just the right amount of HP the bottom end will open itself up for you. Like Dave says the bottom ends are fragile & don't like to be spanked too hard.
Mark said it’s a miles tune. I talked to Jan about a year ago, he said Meth would not be a problem and the tune will scale with the meth. He said I could have him return for it but there was no need to. He also told me the mix I should run to make sure any carbon was gone. He was very helpful.
BMW didn't make the N14 - Peugeot did.....BMW just bought a shitload of them for the MINIs. They are also used in myriad Peugeots and Citroens and who knows what else.