I agree it is not the best motor to mod. The JCW N14 is slightly different. I believe reinforced webbing in the block and upgraded pistons. I will have to look it up agin
500HP... uh yea. That would rock ! Would also love to see your run if/when you do it. If you don't have gopro's can send you some if you want to record it (which would be great!).
I have a suction-cup mount for my Canon that's been used on a track a couple times --- rear window mount. Planning to use it or just pay the Texas Mile photo crew to film it. Gotta look up their rules on "stuff" allowed in the car during a run. But I'll consider your offer when the time comes --- thanx.
After a month or so of fighting parts too big and other parts not readily available, all except the DP is installed. But not without some big sacrifices --- had to lose the A/C compressor, hoses and radiator, to make room for a DP. Then the Aux Coolant Pump was pretty well covered up so the hose connections were almost impossible to make --- decided to not use it. Coolant radiator had to be relocated, down and forward, to make room for the turbo WG actuator --- lotsa Dremel work. Would've been a lot easier if I had relocated the oil cooler reservoir / filter. Regardless of final power out, I don't recommend this particular package as a desirable mod, unless you're going for a full-time track car. Now I just gotta wait for a muffler shop appointment to get a DP fab'd --- probably early Jan. Then another week for ceramic coating and I should be ready for a dyno pull. Early Feb? Car is becoming less and less of a "Daily Driver", as it was before my 500HP goal. Gonna be no fun in the NV high desert summer heat and too dangerous on wet winter roads. Here's a couple pics --- before A/C removal --- trial fit After A/C removal --- final install
Get comfortable, this one is long-winded --- Last post mentioned some dremel work. This is most of it --- Then the oil cooler needed trimming to allow the turbo to fit --- This pic is with two exhaust gaskets installed. Final install only has one but there is slight contact, no space as shown here. DP was fab'd with pieces from my last version --- Another view showing the other O2 sensor. Note the DP has since been ceramic coated --- All together, minus a heat shield --- Conclusion of a dyno pull, flames are more than I expected--- Latest and greatest dyno chart. Note the grid is for power and torque, not AFR and boost. And the driver only took it to just under 7K RPM. Might produce even bigger numbers with the fully rated 7.5K. Gotta educate the dyno operators? --- Then the dyno conversion chart, showing the effects of my 4500' elevation, actual vs. sea level correction --- These are the 2nd set of charts. 1st set was with a different WG actuator. Seems the factory delivered a turbo with a 0.5 Bar actuator, while the ads say it comes with 1.0 Bar. After some trouble-shooting, I found the difference and ordered a 1.5 Bar version.That 0.5 actuator caused about 50 WHP less than the 1.5 version, so I knew there was a problem. Now, to be honest, my gas tank was drained to about a half gallon of 91 octane, then I added 5 gals of VP 109. This was for the 1st dyno run. After replacing the actuator, I added another 5 gal can of VP, so the octane rating at the manifold was pretty close to full rating of 105.5, minimal dilution with 91. The dyno is about a 40 mile one-way, mountain drive from my home. It should be noted that I ordered this turbo with a 0.92 A/R, to get max HP at high RPM's. As a result, the low RPM performance is lower than expected for a 500+ machine, compared to a NA or SC version. On the plus side, it's still a great DD / sleeper --- city driving is still doable and fun. A better street turbo would be one with a lower A/R --- tuner suggests the 0.72 version. Another difference I found is boost. GTX2860R easily built to 35 PSI or more. G25-660 only gets up to 29 and that's at max RPM. Again, probably a characteristic of the 0.92 A/R and a 1.6L engine --- not enough cylinder volume to push the turbine. During the dyno pulls, I also did a data log with my AccessPort, and sent results to EuroTechsAZ, who long ago installed my Manic stage 4 tune. He tells me the added WMI makes up for the possible short-comings of my otherwise OEM fuel system. LTFT, STFT, fuel, timing, all were well within expected limits. So, at least I shouldn't need a tune upgrade for this monster turbo. One final note --- even with all the power gains, I still don't recommend this particular turbo version for a Mini. Maybe one with an external WG, but that would take a much different exhaust manifold and added "stuff". Maybe someday RPM Vancouver will have their package ready and installation guidelines available. It looks promising, and maybe a bigger PITA than my upgrade, but so far, I haven't heard about anyone using it. Maybe RevLimit will talk about their monster Mini --- 582BHP. BTW, 520 WHP converts to 589 BHP. Do I now have the "Baddest 1.6L N14"?
If it isn't, its got to be darn close... That's got to be a hoot to drive when your in the power band. I would love to see the face on people behind you when the flame comes out. I thought mine was a BBQ.. yours is a blowtorch.