Most liked posts in thread: One week old Mini owner with Supercharger issues...

I don't have an R53, which is what you have. My R56 has a turbo. That said, it sounds like the supercharger is working, but as with anything mechanical, it may be in the process of failing. Other R53 owners, as reluctant as they are to offer advice :lol:, may have something to say about that.

5. Would you say Mini's are reliable cars or cars that have lots of issues? .....been getting all kinds of mixed reviews.

Reliable is a relative term.

MINIs are not crap, but they are not Honda Civics, either. A properly maintained MINI will last a long time -- mine is nine years old and has 101,000 miles on it, and runs like a champ.

But, yes, MINIs have issues. The issues you will face on your R53 are somewhat different than what I face with my R56. But, they have some things in common.

First, MINIs leak fluids. Well, they leak and lose fluids. You need to check your oil level regularly -- meaning often. I don't know where it goes, but even a perfectly running MINI loses oil, somewhere. Same with coolant.

Eventually, every gasket on a MINI engine will need to be replaced. Budget for that, because it is not a matter of "if,' but a matter of "when."

From my own experience over four years of MINI ownership, fluid leaks/mysterious fluid disappearance has been the consistent issue. Otherwise, my MINI has been very reliable -- knock on wood.

So, for me, I'd much rather own a MINI than a Honda Civic. Sure, the Honda might be more reliable, but I actually like to drive, and being an artist, I like to drive in something that doesn't look like a home appliance on wheels.

CD

 

Imo steigimer does the best rebuilds ....about $900, a bit more if you have it ported for more power, and it is about a 5 hour job (maybe a full day for a home diy) and maybe $100 in gaskets to do the swap...
Some vendors might have exchange units...they ship you a rebuilt unit in a box...do the swap...ship the old unit back...
Dealers were running about $1500+ for rebuilt unit plus install, at about 2x the labor rate....so imo find a good mini centric independent shop....
To tell you your sc is "not working" is pure BS....
IT MIGHT BE low on oil, and tearing itself appart, but it still works...
A hint...if the sc stops....the waterpump, which works with a PTO off the bottom of the SC STOPS...SO THE CAR IS IMMOBILE.

 

I've owned close to 50 cars (I'm 55 years old), so I've experienced a lot. I also photograph cars for a living, so I've driven just about everything.

I would rate my MINI CooperS in the top range of the cars I have owned and driven, just on the "FUN" factor. Yeah, a Ferrari 458 is freaking awesome, but I can't say it is $200,000 more fun to drive than my MINI, not that I could actually afford to own a 458.

So, when it comes to fun for the money, I can't think of anything better. I would rank it above the VW GTi and the Miata for "fun to drive" -- and I have owned both. The Miata wins in the reliability contest -- they are bulletproof. My GTi was fun, and had Mercedes quality fit and finish. But, my 2007 MINI CooperS just manages to squeak ahead of both of those cars for "fun with a daily driver."

So, what you got yourself into is a fun car that will need a bit more than average attention, and maybe maintenance. But it isn't ridiculous -- it is still a reasonable daily driver.

Absolutely, you need to check your vital fluid levels, especially oil level, often. Keep some 5W-30 full synthetic in the garage at all times. You will need it.

CD

 

I believe NEW OEM factory units are not available anymore.... Best bet is to get a rebuilt unit.... Some are rebuilt better than others...

And don't just take it to just any garage... Make sure it's a garage that's familiar with MINI's. Unless you want to do the work yourself.... There should be a DIY in the library tab...

Go to the "Sponsor" tab at the top for a listing...

 

If'n you are going to do maintenance work yourself then acquiring a Bentley manual for the first generation MINI is a must.

 

Welcome to M/A ...great site and greater people. You got some good advice and I'm sure there will be more, but I'm a mechanical dummy

 

The idea of filling the oil up IMO is a false sense of economy....
The SC is a wear item....so are the seals that keep the COUPLE of OUNCES in....
So if the oil is low...the seals are most likely bad...so for 4-6 hours if labor and $150 you are buying yourself a couple months at best....IF you get in before damage has happened....
But other parts wear....bearings wear, the tolerance on the rotors open up, etc...the efficiency drops...a rebuild fixes all that. An oil change is just that....
Not saying people don't do it...for some folks this stuff is a hobby....and they enjoy it...
But if you are paying somebody to fix it...just get a GOOD UNIT, and you are good for another 10 years, and 110,000 miles (the purported design life of an Eaton m45 SC).
If you have loads of time, and want to spend a day dissembling your car a couple times a year, with increasing frequency, spending $150 in gaskets and special oils at regular and increasing frequency, feel free...
Just keep in mind, old cooked plastic parts get brittle, and metal corroded....so rarely is anything easy on an old car ...

 

Another tip....when the SC is done, have them change the waterpump.
Most would never consider doing one without the other....while not a matched pair, they are both so deeply buried, it is good practice to change them both.
Others might suggest doing other items to "freshen" up the motor, be it hoses, a belt, or maybe the belt tensioner...
Just depends on you goals for reliability and fear of downtime....and how long you want too keep the car...
Some prefer ONE BIG bill every couple years...and saving a bit of labor...others spread it out, but sometimes it means removing some parts 2 or 3 times....and extra days at the garage.

 

If the noise stopped....bet the PTO was done being ground to dust.....noise stops when the gears are gone...takes a LONG time usually....
If the car basicly runs, no codes for a minute or two, no overheat, then it's likly the issues is the gears in the SC....a jammed sc would likely toss a belt....but if the sheer coupling in the snout failed when it locked up, you would see something similar....but would likly have codes having to do with unexpected airflow, or lack of it.
Doesn't matter.
Fix is the same....

Sounds like time for a tow....trying to drive it might cost you the headgasket or worse....

 

Port & Polish of a SC is not needed and a waste of money. I have almost 100K on my OEM SC and I am making 100 HP over stock.

A 15% pulley is a perfect size and will not cause excessive heat.

For your question "Will the 15% pulley improve or worsen the MPG?" YES, and only because you will be addicted to the power and you will drive with your foot mashed to the floor. :ihih::lol:

Now since you are doing a new SC with new water pump I would also replace the thermostat and housing. Cheap and easy to do when the tech is in that area. (Piece of mind)

For the other side of the SC I would replace he belt which you will need anyhow because you are going with a 15% pulley. (Gates 535 belt)
I would also replace the Tensioner, Idler pulley and Crank Damper if it still the OEM one just so you know when they were replaced and your own piece of mind.

You can call Chad Detroit Tuned or Eric at Helix and they can set you up with everything you will need or you can buy most of the parts off of Amazon for much less then any dealershipt will charge you at the part counter.

DO NOT BUY ALTA or M7 parts they are crap and stay away from Way at Walmart Motor works. *You have been warned. :incazzato::nonod::lol::devil::beer

Links to all parts below:

First Gen MINI BIBLE $139.00 ( It's a huge think hard bound book) * You can sometimes find them used for well under $100.
https://www.amazon.com/MINI-Cooper-Service-Manual-Convertible/dp/0837616395/ref=pd_sim_263_99?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0837616395&pd_rd_r=GVHDB4NXZT9MTX94Y0B3&pd_rd_w=uhKwh&pd_rd_wg=QAyj2&psc=1&refRID=GVHDB4NXZT9MTX94Y0B3

While the SC of off you should replace the O-Ring For Crankshaft Position Sensor.

O-Ring For Crankshaft Position Sensor $ 5.00 : https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor-VICTOR/dp/B00AC58YCO/ref=pd_sim_263_10?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AC58YCO&pd_rd_r=9VRT6MYSYMEPMSA6QE93&pd_rd_w=RRFvw&pd_rd_wg=TCmF5&psc=1&refRID=9VRT6MYSYMEPMSA6QE93

Craven Speed 15% SC pulley $110.00 : https://www.amazon.com/Cravenspeed-Supercharger-Pulley-15-Reduction/dp/B00X83J86S/ref=pd_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00X83J86S&pd_rd_r=HD6B1Q4E1PNQCNDJCMXX&pd_rd_w=ya7Hw&pd_rd_wg=7TD6E&psc=1&refRID=HD6B1Q4E1PNQCNDJCMXX

Tensioner $88.00 https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-38404-Professional-Automatic-Tensioner/dp/B001KSDZOY/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mini%7C32&Model=Cooper%7C218&Year=2005%7C2005&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive

Gates 535 belt $ 20.00 : https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060535-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2SIXC/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000C2SIXC&pd_rd_r=P96YCSE5RB85K8FJQ4GS&pd_rd_w=p1zVL&pd_rd_wg=e7zI9&psc=1&refRID=P96YCSE5RB85K8FJQ4GS

Idler pulley $28.00 : https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-36168-Professional-Pulley-Shield/dp/B001FJI2VO/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001FJI2VO&pd_rd_r=P97N83PY8MHM8WWQ9SN8&pd_rd_w=U9LW6&pd_rd_wg=sdJNw&psc=1&refRID=P97N83PY8MHM8WWQ9SN8

REAL OEM Water pump $107.00 : https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Water-GENUINE-engine-coolant/dp/B00ALHIT6O/ref=sr_1_cc_9?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1475070429&sr=1-9-catcorr&keywords=MINI+Cooper+Water+pump

Thermostat $17.00 : https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Thermostat-Gasket-Cooper-Coop-S/dp/B016J1HUG0/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475069827&sr=1-8&keywords=Thermostat+MINI+cooper

Thermostat housing $25.00 : https://www.amazon.com/11537512733-Cooper-Coolant-Thermostat-Housing/dp/B00BOJDYVS/ref=sr_1_15?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475069827&sr=1-15&keywords=Thermostat+MINI+cooper

You have a choice of (2) EXCELLENT Crank Dampers.
SPI Fluid filled $ 225.00 : https://www.amazon.com/PRW-2510901-Percentage-UnderDrive-Serpentine/dp/B004L2N0FA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475069789&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=ATI+crank+damper+MINI+cooper

Or the ATI one $409.00 : https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Crank-Pulley-Harmonic-Damper/dp/B01BT9DDJA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475069772&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=ATI+crank+damper+MINI+cooper

 

+1 and the motor should be good for a few years....regular with fresh coolant, and then drive till you need the suspension "upgrade"....it does have old struts and springs right?
Honestly, you avoid the new car payments, but there is still a price to pay to stay Mobile. But in pure smiles per mile, nothing beats a mini $$$ wise.
Do keep using premium fuel only....try to save a few $$, and you WILL NEED A VALVE JOB.

And to the worrying if they "did ANYTHING"...
All they had to do was let it idle....
The the gears would not grab...car overheats...then when you rev...it would be ok..but worse everytime the rpms drop...
When the sound goes away...even higher rpms won't help...the last tiny bit of the gears are gone.......