1st Gen R53 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Order of Mods.

If purchased from a source you know and trust, there is nothing wrong with used injectors. After all, unless you are replacing your injectors because something is wrong with them, or you have just installed brand new injectors, you are happily driving with and using used injectors as we speak...

PS: My apologies to the OP for getting off the order of mods here...

 

My apologies to MA members for the slight side tracking from the original threads topic.

There are specific size and style injectors for many application usage of MINI's. I have used outside the normal application for years. I have not had the availability of variable ECU tuning to effectively contour each idea change. So I simply used what worked best by process of elimination, trial and error. Some of the injectors I used the physical body was longer than oem/stock so modifying placement of other parts to get them to work was always a challenge. I have personally bought used or was given used injectors form sources both professional and personal with the same assumption as comments of trust to find later by no fault of theirs the injectors were not as they should be. Just because they work does not mean they are working to there best level as designed. So with repeated recommendation do not buy used injectors. There are several injector company's that anyone can contact that can explain in a more technical way why this is a sound recommendation.

Within our MINI community 1320 in the UK and MYNES here in the US with regards to MINIs and perhaps one other(?) that are working directly with injector manufactures that have the means to do complete flow testing, evaluating,rebuilding and blueprinting of injectors. I am sure that if anyone contacts them you will get the scoop (truth) about used injectors.

I guess in the end it goes by the old saying..."buyer beware".

 

I disagree. A tune should be the first thing you do b/c a bone stock MINI with a good tune will get you 15 to 20 whp.

I would check the actual size of those 440s before selling anymore. If the part # are not on the injectors, then they should go into the trash bin.

I'm running Bosch OE 550s and my injector duty cycle is at 74% at WOT (15%, GP IC, MegaMini cam, Mynes V2 header & MINIFlash Tune).

If the 15% pulley is your first and LAST mod to your MINI, then the JCW 380s would be good for your mods.

A customer with MINIFlash using the datalogging feature on his race mini: 15%, schrick cam, 380cc injctors = at WOT, his injector duty cycle is at 112%... So plan ahead; otherwise, you will likely have to upgrade the injector later with more mods.

Chad will set you on the right path in MI. Helix and Way are also good sources too for MINI stuff

If they are used and don't have any identifying marks, i would suggest that you not touch them. Don't take my word for it, learn from our chaps in the UK.

update for my RMW 450cc injectors

 

Chris, the tune is actually the "horse" that controls the cart... you can add all the mods you want to your cart, but if the horse doesn't allow those changes, then the cart won't go anywhere fast.

The price you pay for one custom dyno-tune, you can buy the Bytetronik Tuning Kit and tweak your ecu after each mod upgrades...

http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/bytetronik-tuning-discussion/5555-mynes-remote-tuning-r50-r52-r53.html

 

Agreed! When Chad did my brakes and rotors, he did a thorough inspection. That is redundant because everything he does is thorough. He an treasure and I am fortunate to be near his shop. He hosted the MMMC Holiday Party last weekend. He is a great guy!

Absolutely! I value his advice and expertise. I have a new appreciation for tuning and will bring it up when I talk to Chad next.

Thanks MiniHockey! This is a great topic!

Cheers!
Chris

safe

 

Don't know Chris and his background, but if he or I buy the tuning kit and make a wrong tweak/adjustment to our ECU that results in say a burnt piston or something else; who is liable for the failure. Have to ask because I myself don't portend to be able to properly tune an ECU?

 

IF you get the tune kit, there are 'tunes' already loaded that you can use and NOT get involved with the major changes.. or you can jump right in and blow things up!! The common sense would say do the 'canned ' tunes, and as you become more aware of what and why, or have a tuning dyno do it for you, THEN get into more changes.. the beauty of this is, that, as you learn, and mod.. you can not only 'check' to see what and where you need changes, OR IF you need to do anything at all!!

The basic jest , to me, is that I dont have to depend on waiting to have a Tune party come my way to upgrade from mods!! I can go basic... learn, and then tweek a bit here and there as my knowledge increases.

There is NO Magic to tuning..( as to basic ign timing.. a/f curves.. ect) . it has always been the soft ware!! AND NOW MYNES has allowed all of us to control it . It sort of has put tuning parties more into the past. ( or heading that way!!)

I am sure that if a mate has the tuning soft ware from Mynes and there is a tuner in the area.. the tuner will be happy to tune with Mynes soft ware!! Yes???

Just me.............................

Thumper

 

Thanks.

 

Fresh or canned tunes

Just a SWAG on my part, but I figure you would be S.O.L. & on your own as far as repairs go if that horse that controls things bolted. Let the buyer beware & do your homework before doing any mods. I wonder if there is any help if a custom tune makes your MINI break. Again I'm thinking no.

There are some good tuners out there. I'd use one of those before I attempted doing it myself with a kit. If I am wrong I hope a tuner can set me straight.

 

What I was thinking; leave it to those with the experience and results...

.....and if I'm going to need dyno time and a tuner anyway....let them use the tools they already have.

 

Good points Thumper As with any new tool, the power is in your hands. It's like driving a car, there's nobody there to stop you from driving it into a brick wall. But common sense would dictate that we 'properly control' the steering wheel and steer the car into the direction that it needs to go.

When you get a chance, post up your data-logs so we can help you dial in your car. We helped a customer in Greece and got his tuned dialed in by examining his data-logs along with his AFR... and now he has three customers lined up and he's about to start his own shop with another friend who is a mechanic. He has a good understanding of engine mechanics and have read up some books on tuning.

The power of learning new things is so awesome... keep in mind, his car was previously 'tuned by two local tuners' and a remote tuning device from a US tuner who is not answering his phone calls any longer... Anyways, i better leave it up to him to tell the rest of the story... :eek6:

 

Base tune, tweak on your own, or give it to the PROs...

By all means, tuning is NOT to be taken lightly... that's why we provide the complete list of features (Data-logging being the MOST important) so it provides you feedback on how you should adjust on the tune. In addition, we provide support on the base maps.

That's correct but your local tuner still need to tune it with something. With this Tuning Kit, you now have access to your ECU and YOU get to decide on what you want to do (DIY or let the PRO do it for you)

 

Mike as most all Minis are a bit different and most start with different mods already installed, what mods, injector size, pulley size, exhaust, etc are the base maps based on?

 

That's a good question: when your car is custom tuned last year, then how will you account for the changes a year later now that the parts are a little more worn out? Wouldn't it be nice to be able to look at the data log and be able to get on to your laptop and make the necessary changes on your own? :cornut:

The base maps are based on the mods of the car. There are base maps for the various boost levels and the various mods.

Base map for: 15% on 91 Octane (user only need to adjust fuel and timing)
Base map for: 15% + cam + 550cc on 91 Octane (user only need to adjust fuel and timing)
Base map for: 15% + cam + 550cc on E85 (user only need to adjust fuel and timing)

The base maps are done for the lowest common denominators (15% pulley and 91 octane) so adjustments can be adjusted up.

This self-tuning concept is NEW to the MINI Community but that's not the case with other cars. Take for example Volvo, Saab, Audi, Evo, Mazda, Hyundai, Honda and STi, owners can make adjustments to their own ecu's. And the MINI community is so far behind in this arena.... but the wind of change is coming. But if you choose to do it the old way, then that's cool too (take a video of the dyno graph and send in your afr printout and wait for a Remote File; or even wait for a tuning party to come to a town nearest you). No one is forcing you to buy this product. If you don't see the benefits, then don't buy it. BTW, INTRODUCTORY PRICING expires in two weeks

Since we released this product some three weeks ago, we've had very little sleep having to stay up late filling orders and doing tech support for customers around the world.

We have customers who just want to buy this to be able to clear codes and 'reset adaptation'... Some MINI shops actually purchased this tool from Japan just to reset adaptations b/c he didn't want to buy the GT1 knockoff for $3000 or the Autologic for $12,000. And a couple of racers bought this just for the logging feature and the map switching. Of course, their race tuner can go in there and make adjustments... and they also got the 550s along with our E85 base mappings with the proper injector scaling...

So yeah, people are starting to see the real potential of this product. One customer called me last Friday, the first thing he said was: "what took you guys so long?!?!" LOL

 

I'm just a working stiff. I replaced my 12 year old Saturn with a 4 year old BRG MCS. It is quite the upgrade. I use The Beast as my daily driver.

I want/need to get to a HPDE class up at Grattan. The nut behind the wheel can certainly stand to be thigtened. That may also help me figure out some suspension tweaks.

I haven't done any mods yet. I didn't even get my winter tires without talking to Chad and other members of the club here in Michigan. There are lots of active members with great advice and experience. Since I am easily six months away from doing any mods, I am going to read as much as I can, ask as many questions as I can without being a nuisance and soak up as much as I can before I make any decisions.

Chris

safe

 

With just adding a 15% pulley your stock injectors should work. I kept the stock injectors on my 03 MCS when I added a 15% pulley. The JCW 380 injectors would be nice to provide a little margin with the tune but might not be worth the cost.
The order of your mods depends on your preferrences.
My order would be:
Exhaust, Pulley, Tune, CAI
I always like doing exhaust first, even though not a big HP gain, but because I like the noise and it makes driving more fun to me.
The pulley is the best HP gain for the bucks even without a tune.
CAI does not add much HP and depending on the CAI you add can cause you to fail the visual part of the CA Smog check. I like the additional supercharger sound a CAI adds.
A tune would be great to optimize the HP gain. A remote tune should work fine.

 

Dont be!! The package that is available soon ( the one we are discussing) will allow ALL THAT.... and more!! ONLY now YOU will have control... you can add a 'canned' tune with similar mods, or down load the data and go remote !! Either way. IF or after you become more knowledgeable, then you can tweak the tune for even better results...OR Not!! It is all up to you now!!

The MAX beauty is that NOW we DONT have to wait for a tuning party to come thru town, get the tune... mod some more and have to wait for another tuning party!! Cool!!

As far as what mods first?? CAI!! Get that S/C whine!! 15% pulley.. exhaust ect ect..

Just me........................................

Thumper