as luck would have it I happen to have a scanner handy:
remove pcv hose on right side of valve cover (there's a clip to pull out before you can to detach the pcv)
remove other pcv hose from back side of valve cover
remove ignition coils
unclip wiring harness, remove ground fastener, move out of the way
between bolt 4&5 in the picture there's a sensor you need to unplug then unscrew to remove
then you can remove all the bolts
obviously remove anything else that gets in the way, but that's about it.
note that they missed a bolt, which I labelled 3b and tightened it between 3&4
I didn't add any silicone sealant at the half moon gasket area as they suggested. The gasket provided sealed around everything nicely. Also I couldn't figure out what they were talking about.
There is also a set of O shaped gaskets around the spark plug holes - don't forget to remove those in case they didn't lift off with the cover. There should be new ones provided (maybe already installed in the cover).
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I never heard my turbo - just the blow-off valve as it got older, but even that was pretty subtle
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Jason Montague New MemberLifetime Supporter
:cornut: 115c- is the turbo intake hose(from the air cleaner) rubber and collapsing especially after rapidly decelerating from highway speeds? Check this hose thoroughly. My Margi(08 R56 MCS/JCWm) did this with the old Alta non reinforced turbo intake hose that would be collapsed by the negative pressure gradient at the turbo intake. Now the hose is a metal pipe and no problems. 1497- thoroughly check the post turbocharger hoses, pipes, and intercooler for high pressure air leaks. Valve cover gasket(?), I don't know. Though it may be leaking, there is not usually a high pressure build up between the head and valve cover(low pressure from PCV system but not high pressure). Other gear heads will probably check in later.
Jason -
Jason Montague New MemberLifetime Supporter
Jason -
Well bluejay, I can tell you a thing or two about the p115 code. I had that for a long time and tried many different things (some by the dealer, some on my own) and never did find a solution. There may be more than one cause for that error as some people have had different fixes that worked. I tried them all.
A leak somewhere between the turbo and the intake manifold seems the most likely, but since you also have a vacuum leak, it may well be your valve cover. It is super easy to change and the gasket and oil cap are included with the part. I think it was around $250. You will absolutely have to purchase a small torque wrench that does low values accurately (about 8 ft.lbs I think) in order to properly install it. There are instructions in the Bently manual on the proper installation - the bolts need to be tightened in a certain order. Hopefully that works and you didn't just waste $250. -
i wish it only cost $250... i'm picking up the parts today at the dealership for $360+tax... i found it online for $308 + shipping... but even with expedited shipping, it would take a week to get to me... and unfortunately i need the car taken care of asap...
i don't have the bentley manual so if someone can provide me the order that they should be bolted... i read somewhere that it's 9 ft lbs so i'll have something for that... unless someone tells me otherwise...
wish me luck on the repairs... -
i picked up the part today... when i had called the dealership for the part, they gave me the price and i asked to have it held until i got there... when i picked it up... it was $70 cheaper than what i was told on the phone... i was curious why but either way it was cheaper...
there happened to be a tech there talking with the guy cashing me out... he was a nice guy and asked me what i needed the part for... and we started chatting and he gave me some tips for the install...
the interesting part was when he told me to make sure i hand tighten the bolts... i mentioned that i read that the bolts should be torqued to about 7 ft lbs... ... he said that wasn't necessary and that hand tightening it would be more than enough... just not to over do it -
If it is hissing when you turn the engine off I can almost guarantee its a bad valve cover. There is a little orange disk on the under side that goes bad. I've replaced many a valve cover at work for the same problem. Changing the gasket alone won't likely flux your problem. Hope this helps
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
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Excellent!
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
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good news indeed!
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drove it around tonight... engine felt good... idle felt good... no cel light... drove a little spirited and no cel light... but something felt off...
that's when i realized that i couldn't hear the turbo spool like i used to... i used to be able to hear it on boost... and also when i let off the throttle while in boost... but now it seems awfully quiet...
did i miss something? or did the new parts quiet down the car?
could it have anything to do with me fixing the airbox lid that wasn't put back on properly? could that have made my car louder than it should have been... -
since i missed the sound from whoever installed the airbox lid incorrectly, i did some research and decided to remove the stock airbox... i added a k&n filter to the end... now i can definitely hear the turbo spooling and a louder blow off sound when letting of the throttle...
it's like a new car now... since i also switched from run flats to a slightly wider non-runflat tire set up... 215/45-17 the ride is much better and definitely a lot quieter... also got an alignment -
been running the k&n filter with the stock airbox removed... the filter is connected directly to the maf sensor like i've seen some people do...
after a couple of days of driving around and enjoying the sound, i got the P115C code back... after doing some more research on that one, i figured i would clean the maf... so i took the maf off and sprayed with maf cleaner...
reinstalled it and took it for a drive and about 10 minutes later, it came back on...
i've checked all the piping around the area and it seems fine. the turbo inlet pipe is connected securely... that code is hard to get rid of...
i'm either thinking of adding a 90 degree angled pipe between the filter and maf to see if that will help... although i've read that some people have had success with fitting a filter directly onto the maf...
or just going back to the stock airbox...
any thoughts?
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