First, don't be bashful. By this I mean, info you can share, questions you may have, and most important, not using your PC out of fear. Basic stuff first. PC stands for Porter Cable, the manufacture of the machine. Most folks use model #7424, or the newer 7424XP. RO stands for Random Orbital, this is how the tool operates. The pad rotates, and also oscillates randomly. This is commonly referred to as Dual Action. This tool is NOT available at Malwort. There are other manufactures of dual action random orbitals. From OutMotoring;http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-cooper/griots_garage_random_orbit_polisher_10925.html Let us know what else is out there. The PC can really use this upgrade ShowCarSupplies.com Shopping Cart - OneGrip Single Which looks like this; The One Grip really improves control of the tool, and the PC Guard helps protect things like door handles and mirrors when your working close to them. Now read this;http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/detailing/1666-prima-polishing-pad-chemical-combos.html and this;http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/detailing/405-detailed-abbreviations.html Basic use: Just use machine weight, no need to lean into it. If you put to much pressure on the machine, it will slow down, thus defeating setting a speed on the tool. For horizontal surfaces this is pretty easy to do, horizontal surfaces take a bit of practice. Observe how fast the machine spins on a horizontal surface, and replicate that on vertical ones. When you start the machine, MAKE SURE THE PAD IS FIRMLY PLANTED ON THE PAINT, otherwise product will be flung all over you, and anything else within 10 feet. Mostly work in about 2 square foot areas. So 1/2 the bonnet, or a 1/4 of the roof (if no sunroof) Yes you can use the PC on the pillars. There are lots of things like how long to work an area, pad/product combos, and pad care that can be found in other threads here, but bring up anything that pertains to PC use here. Mark
Thanks Mark, nice intro. I'm going to try my P/C for the first time real soon. I'll bet my wrist will get sore, so I'll be ordering the One Grip from Richard after my first "trial". I had some concerns about burning through the paint on high points (concentrated wear of the paint) and have seen a lot of bad wax jobs by people that have used rotary polishers that leave nasty swirl patterns across the paint. Apparently the P/C is much more forgiving. Ahhhh....... Ummmmm....... Errrrrr.......... By the way, what's the manly thing in the basket?
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol: Fancy polished rock,(not one of mine) keeps the napkins from walking away Mark
A rotary is a different tool, and has a MUCH longer learning curve to do properly. A PC-RO type of tool is much more forgiving. You could damage your paint with one, but your likely not going to lay it down in sand, then sit on it while polishing your MINI. But, you should always practice "less is more" If you have an issue, work from the least aggressive product/pad combo you have, to the most aggressive. No point wearing down clear coat anymore than necessary. Mark
My tip, move the PC slowly when using a polish. I found out from OctaneGuy's clinic that I moved too quickly. A good guide is that when you see all the overlapping circles the machine makes as it works the polish into the paint, there should be about a 3/8" gap between them. Move too fast and you don't give the machine a chance to do its work.
I always wonder how much goop (Epic, Swirl, whatever) do you put on for a 2 square foot area. Can you perhaps show a photo of the appropriate amount? Thanks Mark
I put about this much on the pad the first time I load it when I'm starting. Then after that I use about a 1/3 less than shown here, as the pad is now loaded with product. I also give the pad a light spray of QD the first time I load it, to help the pad take-up the product. Every time I load the pad, I spread the product on the pad by setting it onto the section I'm going to do, and push it around the area, then while holding down, start the PC. Mark
Good point on misting the pad with QD. I was wondering if the goop went on a dry pad? Now I know. Thanks, Mark
Great thread Mark! I like to QD a new pad because it softens it, however it depends. Sometimes I want more cutting power (i.e. aggressiveness) and won't QD it. Another way to soften it is to use it slightly damp after washing the pad. I have the benefit of a rotary buffer that I can spin dry a pad after washing it. The PC isn't as effective for drying pads though it will work, just won't get as dry as a rotary will do. Some people have purchased cheap $25 Harbor Freight rotary buffers to use strictly for drying their pads and not using on their car. How much product you need is determined by experience. You want the pad to be lubricated while polishing, too little product and you won't have effective polishing and the pad might abrade the paint too much. It might end up marring it more than polishing it. Also knowing how long to polish to break down the diminishing abrasives is another thing you learn with experience. I've actually got it down to a science where I will intentionally use broken down Swirl as a finer polishing medium, i.e. I will use the existing broken down polish to achieve better results, than putting on fresh product and breaking that down. It varies on what stages of polishing I'm in and what I'm trying to achieve. As for burning paint, like Mark said, unless the paint is compromised, or you are bearing down on thin paint, the chances of harming or burning it is minimal. There are ways to burn paint with a PC though. Use an orange or yellow pad without enough polish on a sharp edge of a car and hold it there until it gets hot. A 7424xp will get noticeably hotter than the 7424. Also bumper covers have a lower threshold for paint adhesion than metal does, so if you heat that too much, the paint will shrivel up. Richard
All great stuff! Think my question is geared toward OG, maybe Mark There is a body of knowledge on car paint/clear coat and different types, it's properties, adhesion, how it interacts with visible light and what types of detailing products bring out it's best. Any basic info you could share?
Here are some of the common ones; http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/detailing/405-detailed-abbreviations.html Mark
Nope, not me. But I have used other air driven constant run tools, like sanders, routers, grinders. They take A LOT OF AIR to keep a constant speed. So you either need a large tank/compressor, or run the poop out of a smaller one, meaning lots of noise, unless you leave it in your neighbor's garage, and run a line to where your working. I like an electric tool for a few reasons. Cord is less cumbersome than an air line. Less overall investment. Much easier to go somewhere besides home and use the tool. I'm sure the commercial dual action air driven tools are good. Mark
I've used the air powered RO for wetsanding paint. It's nice because it is so lightweight, your wrists don't get tired at all. In Europe, air driven orbitals are popular, though it might have something to do with the fact that people need to use transformers to convert the electricity of the PC's to work there, so I've been told. For polishing paint, I like the added heft of the electric polishers. Being able to polish by using only the weight of the machine is more easily done than with a lighter weight air driven tool. Plus as Mark said, the airhoses can be a bit unwieldy while working.
I ask cause I have been using one for long time. The cost (if you already have a decent compressor) is a lot less than the electric ones. And I do like the weight advantage, as I don't need the added bulk for pressure. I also put the air hose thru a belt loop at the back of my pants and it does a great job of keeping the hose out of my way. So if you have a decent sized compressor ( mine is a 27 gal 6cfm@90psi) the air driven ones are a nice alternative.
With the size compressor you have, it would not be cycling very often. My air tool use has been in large woodworking shops, big compressors, in their own rooms. The weight of the tools is nice. I also loop the hose through my work apron, down my back. I also do this with corded tools, like the PC, to keep it away from the work. Mark