I got this off of another list, I thought I should share it here. Machinist's Workshop Magazine (March/April or May/June, 2007) actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *Penetrating oil .......... Average load* None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench .......... 127 pounds Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix.........53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
thanks. In case its not obvious the acetone mix is probably more damaging to paint, plastic bits, etc. Maybe you want to reserve that for really tough situations. I'm rather surprised pb blaster did so poorly. Was it the original penetrating catalyst stuff? They sell a whole line of different lubes now.
Sure.... now you post this....after all my stuff is back together....:lol: Thanks for this, it will definitely effect what I use next.
The other problem with the acetone mix is that it separates out over time, and the acetone evaporates. I use Kroil.......it works.
Just mix the ATF and acetone as needed. Something else I've used for years as a rusty nut release, is beeswax. I heat the nut with a torch just hot enough that the beeswax melts and wicks into the joint between the nut and bolt or stud. Candle wax works pretty well also. All the ships I've worked on have beeswax in the shop for just this purpose.
Aero Kroil FTW! Over the years I've used many types & the Kroil is the best so far for this old wrench twister.
Penetrating oil? Ummmm, KY? Sorry, I couldn't resist. I'll go back to my gutter, now. :blush2: :frown2: CD
I have used wax as well, particularly on exhaust fasteners, where it doesn't matter if you get them hot with the torch, but then I always wonder if it was the wax or the heat from the torch that did it! Nah, you don't have to get it that hot with the wax for it to work. CRC makes a product that works really well too, that freezes the parts and lets them release- pretty amazing stuff actually.
I have used kroil and know it works well but had never heard of mixing atf and acetone. PB Blaster kinda surprises me and just recently heard of the wax trick but haven't had the opportunity to use yet.
Just adding muriatic acid into the mix. Just be sure to use it in a well ventilated area (i.e. outside only) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Birthday cake candle wax is awesome to use on the inside of metal valve stem caps that tend to get stuck.
Does it keep brass or steel caps from welding themselves to aluminum (TPMS sensor) stems if you leave them on too long between checks?
I was told by the local tire shop that I use & trust to never ever put metal caps on the TPMS valve stems. He said they often weld on due to corrosion. Plastic caps for this guy. Almost forgot. Happy Birthday Dave!
Found some for you! I'm tempted to order a bunch of these and apply 'em to any uncapped valve stems I come across at my next MINI event.