Let's clear things up a bit. There are several locals running these and none of them have had any issues beyond the noise that comes when the sleeve gets loose. There are no "failures" cause the control arm can't come out of the bushing. Only reason to weld the sleeve in place is to eliminate any noise.
Ok Not only am I getting the adjustable camber plates, today I ordered some Helix Adjustable Rear Control Arms. So now I can get the car alined correctly. So now here is how I plan on having it done -2 front / -1.0 rear camber, zero toe. Two questions, one how does that sound and two would you sit in the car when they do it? I plan on having a half tank of gas. Maybe I am being to picky. Sway bar will be next mod. Thanks Arron at outmotoring!
Even though they all do about the same thing, they are all different... It all comes down to materials used, adjustment range, and how everything is held together.
Get the anti-sway bar before the Dragon and then take your car to a good shop and say set you car up like this. (See below) These are the specs from my car and it has been set up like this every Spring for the past 5 years or so. My friend Menda and a few others all run this spec setup all year long.
I am going to try to get the sway bar before the Dragon. If I can't get it before then I plan on getting one at the Dragon. I will bring tools and put it on at the camp sight. Thanks for the set up. Do you put weight on the drivers side for the alinement?
As for weight in the drivers seat yes, they put another fat guy from the shop in the car when they do an alignment. :lol::lol::lol:
Ugh dropping the rear subframe of a 10 year old car in the grass with no air tools... That should be fun! Who's gonna hold the beer?
Lots of air tools on vendors row.....:idea: Have Mike at Helix install it while you have Lunch on the deck one day.
Not to thread jack but I have a question. I ordered the VIP strut plates and went out to inspect the towers before installing them. Am I correct in assuming that I have a little bit of mushrooming going on here?
Maybe just a little its hard for me to tell. when you run your hand over the flat part where the bolts are it should fill flat. My strut towers were much worse.
I've read somewhere that the bolts should be parallel to each other. The inside bolts look like they are skewed towards the center of the car. I did a quick test fit and the plates don't sit flat so...time to pull out the hammer and 2x4.
I got my strut towers flattened back out and strut tower plates installed. If you get strut plates, the VIP custom plates are top notch quality.
Good morning kids! Kweshun.. I think i'm experiencing a tad bit of mushrooming on my driver side strut tower. After I hammer it/them flat again. I'm looking into getting the Craven Speed STD and M7(apologies for foul language Nathann) Strut tower brace assembly WITH the bar. I was looking at the threads at the top of the strut tower and theres barely enough to clear the factory set up. Is it possible for one to do both the STD and the strut tower brace and have enough threads left to hold it all in place?
Not if the plates and brace are separate products. I believe that the M7 brace has integrated tower plates. There's also a big debate about whether a brace bar produces any benefit at all, but that's a separate question.