Also, there is a 'buying guide' over at www.motoringfile.com for the 2002-2006 era. The 2005-2006 models are the best of the bunch, especially if it's an automatic. I just bought an R53 JCW 2005 in Austin and drove it home to Charlotte, NC with a 1/2 day delay due to some engine problems. The things that I had a particular eye on: 1) Crank Pulley - the stock unit usually dies at 80k miles and that was back when the cars were newer. I've got 83k on my 2005 and I'm going to replace it in the next few months. 2) Strut towers - the front shocks push up and 'mushroom' the top of the towers. Minor deflection of the metal there can be hammered back 'gently' and then add strut tower plates to the top to stop re-occurrence. 3) Leaking Power Steering hoses - expect it. $400-$550 at the dealership to fix. 4) Leaking oil from crank sensor - a $4 o-ring that requires at least an hour to change. It is on the front of the engine block and usually causes black cauliflower-like deposits on the front side of the engine, leading down to the oil pan 5) Oil pan gaskets - fairly easy to change... just messy 6) Battery - if it is over 4 years old, replace it.
Wow I am so sorry:lol::lol::lol: Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak and to remove all doubt.:biggrin5: Sorry I can't help myself.:lol::lol:
ALTA stands for "You ALTA know better then buy crap parts" or "It ALTA fit but doesn't" <-- don't blame me that's the reputation they have earned. OEM coil and wires have been proven good on MINI race cars up to 500 hp. Aftermarket or other stuff is not required. Strut brace does nothing at all except the end plates keep the Strut towers from mushrooming. Sorry if the truth hurts.
*********************************************************************** Don't waste your money a Oil Pan Gasket. 5) Oil pan gaskets - fairly easy to change... just messy ..... not really ever needed to be replaced because the leaking oil from crank sensor runs down and people think the pan is leaking. ((Common mistake)) I have 101,000 miles and replaced my leaking O ring at the crank sensor and cleaned the front of the block and oil pan and never got a drop after the crank sensor O ring was replaced. AGM batteries do not need a silly vent pipe. Odyssey PC1200MJT Battery.... no more battery issues. ATI Crank Damper. Buy one, install it and never worry about the crank damper again. All the things I am mentioning are things I have done on my car and I have no issues at all. FYI - A decent set of Coil-covers that come with Adjustable camber plates will stop the hock towers from mushrooming.
No pain here. I am happy with my car and all these parts work just fine, with no difference to the non-Alta pulley and OEM ignition parts in the other R53 in my garage.
Preach on, brotha'! I'll be going deep-ish into the engine bay in a few months, once I get the easy stuff done on my new purchase. I'll be pulling the stock crank pulley and replacing it with an ATI, preventatively... My first R53 blew the crank pulley right on schedule at 81k miles. My new one is at 86k on the stock pulley... not gonna risk it! I'll disagree with the strut tower brace. My first R53 became noticeably quieter when going around turns when I bolted on the brace (fewer creaks and groans in hard turns). That creaking and groaning can't be good for optimal alignment/handling or long-term wear and tear. If you are going to remain on the stock front shock perches (not put on camber plates), then I think large flat strut tower plates (like Way or M7 sells... though I prefer Way because I dislike the way M7 does business) are a good investment. Turning 'em into a strut brace isn't that much more and it looks cool.
Better motor mounts do much more to stop creaks and groans in hard turns than a strut brace of anykind. The brace makes everything stiffer causing things that should not flex to flex. Vibra-Technics MINI Cooper S R52/R53 (02-08) MIN915M - Torque Link Engine Mount $135.00 https://www.greeneperformance.com/collections/mini-oem-performance-parts/products/vibra-technics-mini-cooper-s-r52-r53-02-08-min915m-torque-link-engine-mount Vibra-Technics MINI Cooper S R53 ('02 - '08) MIN910M - Left Hand Engine Mount (gearbox end) $275.00 https://www.greeneperformance.com/collections/mini-oem-performance-parts/products/vibra-technics-mini-cooper-s-r53-02-08-min910m-left-hand-engine-mount-gearbox-end
Check out the VIP R53 strut tower brace: http://www.vipcustomparts.com/suspension%20parts.htm# I went with it because of the little details that makes it seem like they put a lot more thought into the design than the other brands. I'm not sure if it makes an actual difference engineering wise, but the radiused reliefs for the ridges on the strut towers instead of a square edged groove, and the custom machined t-nuts for mounting instead of recessing the nuts and making the plate thinner where it bolts down made it seem like a stronger and better choice. You can buy the bar and plates separately for $149 each over time, or as a combo for $279.
Not a fan of the VIP brace but the 5/8 inch thick strut tower plates are very good and protect the strut towers from mushrooming over time.
Not too sure how much the bar helps the handling, but it did get rid of my dash rattles and it looks good. The back of the hood might pop up a little from the padding hitting the bar. I fixed this by soaking the pad with water and driving the car a bunch of times to "heat set" the bar into the pad.