1st Gen R53 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Power/starting issue

That sounds like a failing battery, to me. How was it tested? How old is it? Have you tried jump starting the car to see if it starts better?

CD

 

If all they used was a multi-meter, that's not enough. The O'Riley's close to me does a full load test for free.

A jump start isn't definitive, but if it cranks right up, it would be another indication that the battery is the problem.

CD

 

Well, it is hard to say, many brands are made by a small group of manufacturers. I understand Duralast and DieHard are made by the same company.

I have an Interstate battery, that was installed by the dealership I bought the car from four years ago.

CD

 

Autozone will charge your battery for free and I thought they use to load test them. It's not unheard of that a three year old battery is causing starting problems in a MINI.

 

The start....
Is it a slow rumbly start?
Lumpy?
Or just a slow chug...smooth, but long to fire?

Has the basics been done....hate to say speak plugs, wires, and coil terminals as a good spot to start...
Since many plugs last so long, many folks kinda ignore them, but a MINI with a pulley can need a set every 30,000 miles, and that is the OEM $$$ MULTI electrode version that has a long life....
Does it get worse when the car sits off, but key in the "on" postion?
Only on cold starts and ok if it's warm?

 

Yes. That right there is it.

When you talked to them were they aware that this starter issue didn't exist before they worked on it? Did they have any explanation? Do you get the feeling that they will own it? If a shop refuses to admit they made a mistake, then you have to decide whether or not you are willing to go to war. That's a whole other topic.

As far as getting the car fixed, first step is never go back to that shop. Are you able to find recommendations for Mini service near you? If so, go where other Mini owners have had good luck. If not, then what are your local repair options?

On the DIY level, I'd go to an auto parts store and read and record your OBD codes. Lots of stores will do this for free. Post them here, and Google them.

I'm interested in the big picture, the history. Like your trunk/hood light being on, then getting fixed by magic.

When you have a pattern of weird electrical glitches that come and go, that points to a BCM or ECU type problem. Like clogged sunroof drains leading to water on the BCM (body computer, near the passenger footwell under the carpets) which leads to all manner of ghostly weirdness.

Besides that, and the codes, can you post a chronological outline of the whole history? How many owners, were they commuters, Sunday drivers, racers/modders? How did the car run on day 1? What happened next, step by step. Short bullet points are good.

Maybe somebody else has a better suggestion, but in my mind that's the way to proceed.

 

How many miles are on the MINI and what Plugs and Coil is on the car? If you do not know about the plugs change them yourself.

Non OEM plugs cause issues and a Red (MSD) coil is just bad news.

 

With 170k on the car, I would replace the coil, and wires anyway, if they haven't been done recently. Go genuine, not after market so-called performance.

 

^^^^ This all day long.

 

Amazon is your friend. :beer


NGK plugs : https://www.amazon.com/NGK-G-Power-Platinum-BKR6EGP-7092/dp/B01M3MP6C5/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1476726806&vehicle=2005-32-218-1--17-6-5-4825-111-1-1-2648--2-0&sr=1-6&ymm=2005%3Amini%3Acooper

OEM coil :https://www.amazon.com/Original-Engine-Management-50013-Ignition/dp/B000CSS9H6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476727187&sr=8-1&keywords=2005+MINI+OEM+COIL

Wires: https://www.amazon.com/Denso-6714082-671-4082-Wire-Set/dp/B0018RDPV0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1476727053&vehicle=2005-32-218-1--17-6-5-4825-111-1-1-2648--2-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2005%3Amini%3Acooper

Belt Tensioner : https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-38404-Professional-Automatic-Tensioner/dp/B001KSDZOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1476727205&sr=1-1&keywords=2005+mini+belt+tensioner

 

On an Amazon listing, they will give a "used" option alongside the new price. I have tried this several times, and received an item that is new and unused, but in an open box. I got an AC compressor that way, new and unused, for $155 shipped. Just something to look at.