Let me just clarify that I'm showing another technique with Prima products. Sometimes a quick polish wash is all you want. The paint isn't flawless. For that, I would need to use Swirl first. Also remember this is white paint which is more forgiving. I wouldn't use BG on white paint because I don't think the warming effect of the carnauba is desirable. Epic or Hydro would be my wax choices.
I gotta hand it to you Richard, you sure know how to bring in customers, I'll bet you also are going after that repeat business as well. Look's like a great crew you have working for you. That's how you got........ Voted #1 Best Detailer in Orange County by myFoxLA! Over 850 fans!:devil:
OK, just reread the thread, and I did not look at any pictures:ihih:. I'm somewhat confused, which is easy for me:idea:, you say you clean with PW, then polish, then clay. I thought you always wanted to remove as much contaminants as possible before you polished. Is the Epic drying faster because it is being worked longer, and at higher speeds? Mark
Hahah thanks Metalman! :devil::devil: I just edited the first post to clarify what this detail was about. I had a limited amount of time to get a job done. I normally would spend 12 to 14 hours on this car, I only had 6 because the customer wasn't interested in paying for the "complete" and he said he was probably going to take it back to the car wash. So I tried to optimize my process as much as possible. Normally I would clay off contaminants, but I used PW instead, and what normally would take 10 or 15 minutes of claying, I did in a few seconds. PW doesn't work on ALL contaminants though. Just the tar, adhesive, paint transfer type stuff. For me, anything that looks "unknown", PW will get the first go at it. I then clayed the areas I didn't use PW. PW, like many solvents I've found, leave a surface residue that if you don't fully remove it, causes the clay to stick to the paint. In cases where the paint has a great deal of contamination, you can polish first using a paint cleaner, and clay afterwards. I chose to polish to remove the PW residue, so I could clay later. But as usual, polishing also cleans up the surface..maybe 80 or 90%. There were still areas that needed claying, so I went back and spot clayed. Remember this detail is more about how to do a Quality Production Detail. Not the normal Quality Details that I normally do. I had a limited amount of time, and needed to find shortcuts to achieve a decent result, so some steps might have been unconventional. Epic is drying faster because it's being worked in, the PC is generating heat. I don't know if I'd feel comfortable just polishing one pass and say that it's been Epic'd too. Maybe for a VERY QUICK detail, but I would still come back with a black pad and do a final coat of Epic. Course time will tell. Maybe as more of these get done, I won't feel that way. Richard
Have you tried, just thinking off the top of my head here:idea:, to remove the PW with alcohol, like you would to remove old Epic, then claying? If time permits, and it's not hotter than blazes here this weekend, I may try this on the Clubbie before we head to MITM. Well the Epic part, as my PW is about to head to Winter Park Mark
I haven't tried yet, but it's a good idea. I think it would work! Just remember that you have to work the PC a bit slower and longer when polishing with Epic because it doesn't cut as much as Swirl. Richard