Engine Drivetrain 1st Gen Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Proper belt for ATI damper + 15% pulley

  1. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    Helix it is - mostly because we decided today that I am keeping the car we have and we'll get a different R53 for my son to beat up in the snow and salt.
     
  2. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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  3. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    I'd replace the idler pulley too while you are at it.
     
  4. myles2go

    myles2go Active Member

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    I don't think you can make a wrong decision with either one of them. Both are good solutions and with proper care, either one will last a long time.

    Does your car ever see our Wisconsin winter? The poly bushing might be better choice if it does. However, heim joints are readily available items, so I doubt you couldn't replace one if needed.

    NOTE: Helix offers great products and service. They are a good group of people and they are active members of the MINI community. If that means anything to you.
     
  5. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    Just did the first lap around the neighborhood since before this thread started. The engine runs like smooth clockwork: ATI damper, fresh tensioner and idler pulley, and a perfectly fitting fresh belt that is not slipping even with aggressive throttle inputs. The new engine mounts also seem to smooth things out.

    The suspension feels like a Cadillac compared to the junk that was on there. Still firm, but it actually evens out the road surface and bigger seams that used to just bang through everything.

    Ride height was spot on driver's side. On the passenger side I only needed to drop the front 1/3" and the rear 1/4" to get it to be about right. No reason to go lower. For the first time, the car didn't scrape on the bottom front edge as I backed out of the driveway!

    At first I wanted to go lower, because the car was darn low, but for now, I will just go with what I have now (24.3" front wheel arch to floor, 24.6" in rear).

    Now if only some alignment shops were open this weekend...

    Still bleeding air from the cooling system every time it runs, checking for loose stuff, etc. - I have never done that much to a car before. I've had motorcycles completely apart, but cars always were too big for me, until I found a small one :)
     
  6. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    I have Helix rear adjustable control arms and IE adjustable camber plates on the front. I don't have coilovers I have Eibach Pro-kit springs and Koni Yellows. I am Happy.


    Also I gained 10 HP on my Butt Dyno by putting the Helix stickers on my car. I have a graph somewhere.........:D
     
  7. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    The Helix ones Have a rubber boot around the joint to keep water out.

    I hate when water gets on my joint, the are very hard to relight! :D
     
  8. TheModFather

    TheModFather Well-Known Member

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    Chad, the 0% ATI is actually about 1.5mm LARGER than a stock '02-early '04 crank pulley... I didnt believe it myself until a couple weekends ago. ;)

    OP: You cant go wrong with either set of arms. It comes down to your personal comfort tolerance. The H-sport's are more comfortable for daily use because of the poly bushing, where the Helix is a more solid connection with the heim joint.

    Both are top quality and rarely fail.

    I have both upper and lower sets of Helix arms on my R53, and if I ever build up the Porker (R60) I will do the same, just because they are that good!
     
  9. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    If the boot isn't torn, sometimes it's enough just to put a set of CV clamp pliers on the clamp and tighten it up. They can loosen up over time as the rubber degrades.
     
  10. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    The torx socket isn't a big deal right now. The motor is already back on the mounts and I moved on to the oil leaks.

    First the valve cover but another missing tool - it requires a deep socket 8mm - my smallest deep socket is 10mm. Plus I will need more 1/4" wiggle extensions to get the intercooler supports back on there. I keep hitting dead ends every night. Glad I don't need the car to drive anywhere. Before I start digging into the front end for the crank position sensor I will need to buy some fresh anti freeze - doing a full coolant swap as well when I take the radiator off.

    Meanwhile the oily intercooler got a nice hot bath in Simple Green tonight. Shiny!

    And the Coilovers and downlinks are on the truck as of today.
     
  11. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    I didn't touch the suspension tonight. Instead I swapped the busted and leaked-out engine mount and did some black gunk cleanup. That E14 bolt at the bottom is pretty corroded. Almost looks like that black fluid is some sort of acid and attacked the metal. It looks chewed away in the exposed area below the thread that goes into the mount. I'll be swapping that bolt soon (didn't come with the mount I have, or at least I didn't get that from the last owner). A totally new set of engine mounts is a mod for the near future.

    Before I put the coilovers in, I need to get that front end back together, super charger oil, radiator mount etc. After that I will drop the car back onto the wheels, do some measurements for my current baseline. Then back on the jacks and hack away on the old stuff. This weekend is going to be pretty busy. I may bug you for something should I get confused.
     
  12. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    who exactly makes these things in your car? Mine actually came from California, where they got a make over by Colin.
     
  13. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    :drool
    [​IMG]
     
  14. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    The penetrating oil and some soak time worked.

    I got all parts in - still on jacks until I get the bumper back on. These coilovers look really short (I installed as shipped), so I probably will be all slammed when I set it back down on its wheels tomorrow or Friday.
     
  15. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    So same belt as standard damper, thanks, needed that confirmed.

    I have a new tensioner and idler pulley already waiting for belt and ATI, which I will order together with rear camber arms and downlinks. This car is putting me in the poor house :) ...and I haven't even ordered the coilovers yet. Need to do that tomorrow.

    I am still undecided between H-sport and Helix for the rear camber links... don't drive much, never in winter, so Helix probably. I like that you can get fresh bushings for the H-sport, though.
     
  16. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    I have the Helix ones and my car is in the north east, Philly area.
     
  17. GokartPilot

    GokartPilot Well-Known Member

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    Give it a few more years, you'll see what the poor house really looks like.:Thumbsup:

    I am confused? Clarification - Knowledge requested.
     
  18. GokartPilot

    GokartPilot Well-Known Member

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    I am not sure if I want to see that graph paper :biggrin5:


    Thanks for the schooling, always new things to learn. :Thumbsup:
     
  19. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    Myles,

    a pair of Helix arms and horsepower-adding Helix stickers are sitting on my kitchen table, next to an assortment of pulleys tensioners, gaskets, etc. Getting closer to install weekend. Still waiting for the BC coilovers, but I am probably not able to work on it until next week anyway.
     
  20. myles2go

    myles2go Active Member

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    That's great! The stickers will make your car faster.

    Let me know if you want any help.