Yep, one would hope that it was put there deliberately, because if trans oil is finding it's way into the #1 plug journal, there's a whole heap of trouble.
Start with a compression test (inspect the plugs as they come out). It's unlikely that it's your wires, but that's easily tested by swapping the number 1 wire with another one and see if the misfire follows the wire.
Don't pull the head until you've confirmed that there's a compression issue.
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Eric@Helix New MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
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Got the head off this morning, this job was almost too easy. Maybe I just anticipated it being harder, took me 4 hours to get it off, this was with taking breaks and removing the radiator (needs a cooling fan fix) which wouldn't have been neccesary.
Cylinder one has a burnt exhaust valve. So next up is to get the head fixed/refreshed and reassemble. I still have quite a bit left to fix but I'm happy to get this part partially knocked outAttached Files:
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Figured I'd post an update, heat now works car is running great. Found that the actuator for the temp control was actually stuck, moved it a little by hand now the heat works.
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
I bet it's a burnt out exhaust valve. My R50 had the same issue on #2 anyway as Eric says do a compression check first.
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Yea the handle issue will probably be the easiest to fix lol. Luckily they don't need the car back until mid July so I can take my sweet time, although the longer I look the more I'll find.
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ColinGreene Well-Known MemberMotoring Alliance Sponsor
Yeah, the gain is the exhaust valves wont burn.
Other than that they are exactly the same.
might be a good time for a mild cam....:devil:-
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
$1200 is ok. this is no a beers only job.....main thing is you cover everything so you don't get some come back later. I say this because I did the V belt job on the Audi with the belt provided by the owner off...............EBAY and the belt broke after 1 month, so he had to take the TT to the dealer as I was in the US. Guess who got the blame??
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I'm fully prepared to offer assistance if there are further issues. I can only assume she will come to me if something goes wrong. Luckily her daughter is out of the US until the middle of July I plan on asking her if I can drive it for a week to shake out any bugs etc
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
I always take the top radiator hose off and pour the fluid in there with the cap and bleed valves open. Never had any issues, heater works great. Maybe the heater matrix is full of sludge? how about flushing the system?
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I'm wondering if the red ATF was put into the cylinder to do a compression check at the shop (usually you
check first without and then with some oil or similar added to see if that helps the numbers or not). -
I had that thought as well, but I've always used a few drops of oil. makes me wonder if the shop did a compression check and found cylinder one reading low.
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aslondon MemberSupporting Member
- Jan 4, 2015
- 19
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- Retired School District Director of Operations
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Please keep us posted. Inquiring minds want to know.
Al -
A good compression check, wet and dry by a pro, will give you a good idea what's up...
Good luck.
Guess you could move the injectors...use new o-ring if you do too see if it follows the injector, but gut says valves....so many have gone over the years, some due to low octane fuel letting the valves run hot, some from just wear. -
P.S.
Misfire at low rpm is typical of lower compression....
As the rpms increase, there is less time for the air to leak out on the compression stroke...
So symptoms match...if it is the valves it typically worsens rapidly.... -
ColinGreene Well-Known MemberMotoring Alliance Sponsor
Leak down test would be better.
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
Well if it is a burn valve I have the original head in the garage as I fitted a MC head with better valves. if you need a valve I can send you some. Gratis!
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I have learned some more info on the car today, The shop that has been working on it did a compression test and cylinder 1 was half the tolerance it should be (didn't specify the number). Looks like the head will be coming off.
Before I go pulling the head is there anything else I should check for?
Also if I pull the head what are some other items I should tackle while in there, new timing chain? etc.... this MINI has approx 117K on it.
Should mention the shop that has been working on the MINI seems to know what they are doing but my co worker is having sticker shock as the repairs are amounting to almost the purchase price of the car (oil pan gasket and passenger axle are bad as well). I just happen to be a nice guy and won't charge her what they were going to. -
RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
This is how I found out it was a burnt out valve: I took the valve cover off to see when both valves were closed on the suspect cylinder. I then connected an air line to the compression tester line. I blew air into the cylinder and then put my hand over the tail pipe. I could feel air coming out which confirmed the burnt out valve.
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